.. two friends presented their new street wear at our fly tying meeting on Friday and Saturday. No, they are not what you think…, both got girlfriends! ;-)
If someone is interested in those t-shirts… let me know.
Most people use CDC for all kinds of dry flies, but it’s a good material for streamer or for example shrimp pattern, because of the movement under water.
This is an easy pattern, which works really great for seatrout, especially when you’ve got sunny, calm weather. Works well for the baltic garfish too.
This fly doesn’t immitate a specific animal, it just looks like food for the seatrout. A little bit like a shrimp, a small baitfish or a mysis.
Wind thin lead wire around the front part of the hook shank.
Use some CDC fibres for the tail.
Add two fibres of Micro Chrystal Flash.
Tie in some mono for ribbing. It’s imortant to fold the mono back and catch it with the thread, so it can’t slip when pulling tight for the ribbing.
SLF Saltwater Dubbing in Pearl and Ginger before mixing
Split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap.
Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing.
The first part should be 3/5 of the shank.
Bring the thread to the front.
… and dub from the front backwards to the beginning of the already dubbed body.
I tried to show you how the fly looks in the water. The SLF becomes semi-transparent. Together with the CDC looks the fly like it’s alive and yummy.
tight lines Holger Lachmann
When it’s getting dark on the river, the caddis often become very active. It’s really fun to fish a big caddis fly surfing over the surface. Sometimes the trouts go mad and take the fly very aggressively.
I don`t want to check all the time, if the fly is floating well. The fly should float like a piece of cork all night long. That`s why I like to use materials like CDC and foam for those kind of flies. If you want to treat the fly with fly floatant, you should use a highly fluid floatant like Water Shed. Very important, Water Shed must be completely dried before fishing.
Put a needle in your vise and tie a layer of thread. Very important: Use NOT a waxed thread. If you do, you may get problems pushing the finished body from the needle.
Put a 3 mm wide strip of foam on the needle.
Create some nice segements with your thread. If you got problems creating the body, just google “extended foam body”. There you find some nice videos.
Finish the body behind the last segment with a whip finish.
Pull the extended body from the needle and tie it in.
With a permanent marker you can give the body a nice colour.
As a wing, tie in three CDC feathers. They should be longer than the body.
Over the CDC wing, you should tie in some moos hock hair in the same length like the CDC. It push the CDC down, so the wing is always flat over the body and it increases the floatability. Then tie in some fibres from a pheasant tail. Split the thread, put in some CDC and twist the the thread by rotating the bobbin. I like to work with the Petitjean Magic Tool when preparing the CDC.
If necessary, repeat spinning the CDC and wind it around a second time.
Fot the antennae I used two hair of moose hock.
Pull the pheasant fibres foreward and catch it with the thread.
Spinn some CDC as dubbing around the thread and create a little head, then fold the pheasant fibres back, cut it and whip finish the fly.
To secure the thread and the pheasant use a bit of varnish or really thin uv-resin, which makes the fly very durable.
Finished fly from underneath, or “the fish view”. ;-)
Some month ago I started playing around with Senyo’s Laser Dub.
I don’t really like it for the normal dubbed bodies, but for creating 3-D heads and bodies of flies, it’s really cool stuff.
You can put it in a dubbing loop, brush it with a velcro-brush and wind it around or stack it like you do with deer hair, which works best for me do get really compact bodies.
The combination with a zonker stripe works really great. The flies got a lot of volume and the zonker stripe moves really nice in the water.
I gave some friends baitfish patterns tied with Senyo’s Laser Dub for some tests. The results were really good. Perch, trout, asp, chub and seatrout (biggest one was around 70 cm) were caught. When you fish those patterns in strong currents, you should put some weight in the fly or fish with a sinking line.
Here are some examples.
I like to use a dubbing mix made out of some nice dubbings. Choose whatever you want. One part of the dubbing should be a little bit spiky.
Mix the dubbings together. Here’s my result.
Other materials I use for the Tangloppen (scud in the baltic sea).
Tie in the short marabou tail. Most common hook sizes are # 12 – #8.
Tie in the mono ribbing and the body stretch.
Dub the body.
Turn over the body stretch and catch it with the thread next to the hook eye.
Rib the body with the mono.
Tie in the antennas, make a whip finish and varnish the head. At least brush the dubbing body with a velcro brush to imitate the little legs. Voilà! A nice little easy to tie Tangloppen. Sometimes this small fly is really, really good for seatrout.
I like my Tangloppen unweighted, so I can fish it very slowly and in really shallow water over beds of seaweed.
I posted this step by step instruction already on my Facebook page, but I think it’s an important pattern for seatrout, so it should be part of the blog.