Movie ‘Gaula – River of Silver & Gold’ by Daniel Göz and Anton Hamacher

My Blu-Ray of “Gaula – River of Silver & Gold” by Daniel Göz and Anton Hamacher just arrived this morning. I put it directly into the player… ;-).

It’s one of the best flyfishing movies, that I’ve ever seen. It’s no fish porn, that fact should be clear. It’s more! It’s about the water, the nature and the great atlantic salmon.

Some scenes of the movie makes you breathless, together with the sound, they are epic! Big words, I know, but that are my fresh feelings some minutes after the end of the movie. The quality of the pictures and the camera rides are amazing.

Highly recommendable!

You can watch the trailer ( and buy the DVD or Blu-Ray, if you like it) here:

http://www.gaulathemovie.com/

Enjoy!

2012 Fantasy pike fly challenge – by Simon Graham

Legendary pike fly fisherman and pike fly tyer Simon Graham starts a really cool challenge in 2012.

Rules

Players pick 4 flies for the season 12 flies to choose from (Found in the left sidebar)
6 tubes
6 hooked
6 substitute flies (3 x tubes & 3 x hooked) 5 flies will be tied for each specific fly design, and will be used through out the season. Once each fly becomes unusable to fish with, it will be replaced with a new one until all five are finished. Flies will be regularily photographed to show their condition throughout the Fantasy league challenge.

Points tally

Points will be tallied up at the end of each week and added to the league table in the sidebar so players can see where they are standing 1 point will be given for each fish caught
2 extra points will be awarded for a fish over 75cm (2,46 ft)
4 extra points will be awarded for a fish over 85cm (2,78 ft)
6 extra points will be awarded for a fish over 1 meter (3,28 ft)
I will alternate between using tube flies one days and hooked flies the next and each fly will be changed after each fish caught which will even out the playing field so to say!

Substitutions

1. Substitutions will be submitted as and when I feel the need to change the playing field. for example certain flies will perform better during different times of the year.
2. 3 x substitutions will take place throughout the course of
the season.
3. Each player gets to choose one tube and one hooked fly they would like to change. The flies that get the most vote for that specific substitution period get used!

Play offs!

1. On the 30th September all the points will be tallied up and the top 10 players will go into the October play offs which will end on the 31st October.
2. All the flies will be brought back into play for each of the ten players.
3. Players can then choose to either keep the ones they have or change to other models during the play offs.
All entrants need to be submitted by the latest 15th May. Send your entry name to uivelon_kierros@yahoo.co.uk with (2012 Fantasy pike fly challenge) as a header

 

Please visit Simons challenge website: http://fantasypikeflychallenge.blogspot.de/

 

Mayfly Flex Stretch Nymph – Step By Step

Here’s the step by step tutorial for a mayfly nymph pattern, to imitate the BWO for example. This pattern is durable and looks quite like the natural, when drifting through the river. Don’t use too much material when tying these kind of nymphs. You should always keep the slim original in your mind.

This pattern is another example, how usefull uv-resin could be, when tying even small flies for trout and graylig. For this fly I used Clear Cure Goo Hydro, which is highly fluid like water. It’s perfect for smaller patterns and is soacked up by dubbing and feathers, what makes the flies really durable.

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Daiichi D 1270 # 14
  • Weight: Flat Lead
  • Tail: Pheasant Tail Fibres
  • Abdomen: Flex Stretch Olive
  • Wing Case: Pheasant Tail Fibres & Clear Cure Goo Hydro
  • Thorax: Oliver Edwards Masterclass Dubbing & Clear Cure Goo Hydro
  • Legs: Partridge

 

Put the hook into the vise and wind the flat lead on the hook shank. Do a second layer of lead on the front part like shown on the foto.

 

Tie in three pheasant tail fibres to imitate the tail of the mayfly.

 

Tie in a small piece od stretch flex and wind it aroung the hook shank.

 

Cut a piece out of a pheasant tail feather and tie it in for the wing case.

 

Take a partridge feather and cut a little piece out of the tip. Then tie the partridge feather in with the tip first.

 

Dub the thorax, then fold the partridge to the front and catch it with your thread next to the hook eye.

 

Put a little drop of Clear Cure Goo Hydro on the stem of the partridge feather to join the dubbing with the feather. Cure the CCG Hydro with the uv torch. The hackle stem and the dubbing are joined together now. Nothing will ever slip and the legs will stay as shown on the photo.

 

Fold the pheasant to the front and catch it with your tying thread. Put a little drop of Clear Cure Goo Hydro on the wing case and cure it with the uv torch.

 

The wing case is now very durable after curing the CCG Hydro. If you want a shiny wing case, that’s what I prefer, put a second drop of CCG Hydro on the wing case and cure it. Now, the mayfly nymph is ready for fishing.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Quill Body CDC Emerger No. 2 – Step By Step

It’s the end of April and the trout and grayling season will start soon.

Here’s another very good emerger pattern, which imitates some different may fly species, depending on the colour and size. It’s tied on the new Daiichi 1167 Klinkhamer hook, designed by the famous dutch fly tyer Hans van Klinken.

The Daiichi 1167 got a stronger wire compared to the Tiemco 212Y for example, which makes sure, that the abdomen hangs deep in the surface. That’s really important and that’s the reason, why this pattern got no tail or a trailing shuck, to make sure, that the abdomen is hanging deep in the surface.

The quill body is covered with a thin coating UV Resin.

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Daiichi 1167 # 14
  • Abdomen: Polish Quills &Tack Free UV Resin
  • Thorax: Oliver Edwards Master Class Dubbing
  • Wing case: CDC
  • Wing: CDC
  • Legs: Partridge

 

Put the hook into the vise, do a layer of thread and tie in a stripped peacock quill. Wind the quill around the hook shank and catch it with the tying thread.

 

Put a little drop of Tack Free UV Resin on the stripped peacock quill and spread it on the abdomen. Cure it with your UV torch.

 

Tie in two CDC feathers for the wing case. Then tie in the tip of another white CDC feather as a crippled wing.

 

Dub the body and tie in some partridge fibres to imitate the legs. Fold each CDC feather to the hook eye and catch it with the tying thread. The CDC wing should be exactly in the middle of the feathers.

 

Cut the CDC feathers for the wing case and do some turns with your whip finisher to create a little head. Varnish the head, if you like. That’s it, ready for fishing. ;-)

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Grey Magnus Step By Step

 

This pattern is so famous….no more words about it, let’s start tying! ;-)

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
  • Tail: Grey Grizzly Marabou / Chrystal Flash Pearl
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: Hare’e Ice Dub Hare’s Ear from Hareline / Grizzly Hackle
  • Front Hackle: Dun Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Eyes: Bead Chain Eyes

 

Do a layer of thread on the hook shank and tie in the grizzly marabou as a tail.

 

Tie in two strands of pearl crystal flash on each side of the marabou and fix the mono for the ribbing.

 

Spin some dubbing around the thread and dub the body. Don’t dub the body to tight, because we want to brush it later.

 

Tie in a smaler grizzly hackle and wind the hackle from the front to the back around the dubbing body. Rib the dubbing body and the hackle turns with the mono from the back to the front and catch the mono with your tying thread. Give the body a nice brush with your velcro-brush.

 

Take a dun grizzly saltwater hackle and prepare it like shown on the picture. Tie it in and wind it around the hook to create the front hackle.

 

Take some bead chain eyes and tie them in. After some turns around the eyes, put a drop of super glue between the eyes to secure them, then keep winding the thread around the eyes. That’s how you create a strong bead chain head. If you fix the eyes with loose turns of thread, they will slip around the hook shank. That’s it, the Grey Magnus.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann