Articulated Pike Streamer

Got some new cool materials for testing! Main topic: PIKE!

I will do some “a closer look at…” in the near future. Here is the first fly I’ve tied with some of the materials. A big, but very lightweight articulated pike fly. Even if it looks very big, it’s not as hard to cast as you might imagine.


Articulated Pike Streamer

These streamers for pike are articulated, so the move very nice. The length is between 17-20 cm. Even if the look quite bulky, they are easy to cast, because the materials are tied in sparsely . Really flies that everyone can cast.


Squids for the Baltic Sea

Everyone is talking about Squids in the Baltic Sea right now. Why? You can read it here on Globalflyfisher

It’s a nice and interesting written articel by Martin Joergensen. Martin is from Denmark and he is close to the sources, so why should I write it again? 😉  Thx Martin!

So, I don’t got any squid patterns in my fly box for sea trouts. That’s why I was testing a little bit on my tying place. These are the first two patterns.

First try, unweighted


The second try is weighted in the front and I put the eye on the second part and just the mantle on the main hook.



Fly Tier’s Little Helper – Part 2 – Hackle Pliers

There are a lot of tools for the fly tier on the market. Some are good, some are useless, some are expensive but worth the money, some are cheap and still super usefull.

I used a lot of different tools and gimmicks in the last 20 years, and in this series I want to show things, which worked well for me and I’ll try to tell you why.

Part 2

Every fly tier needs a good hackle plier. You can find a lot of different pliers on the market. This are the two types I can highly recommend.

1. Dorin Hackle Plier

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You can buy it normally for less than 5,- €. It works great and has a lot of power holding different materials. I use it often, when I have to tie with a high strength, especially ribbing with mono. Just wind the mono two times around the wire. The only negative point for me is, that my finger does not fit into the loop of wire.

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This is the Dorin hackle pliers I use. It looks a bit shabby, but it’s over 13 years old.

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From time to time the plastic tubing is damaged and the materials begin to slip. To solve the problem is very easy.

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Just push the tube over the edge and cut it. Now it works like brand new. You can see, that it’s not necessary to do it often. Like I said, the one on the picture is more then 13 years old and it was used very often. There is still some tubing left. 😉

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Here is the expensive one. C&F hackle plier. About 30,- € for the cheapest model. Well, a lot of money, but it’s worth every cent. It works perfect as an all around hackle plier. You can tie with it many years and it still works like on day one. The rubber pads are missing on mine, but that’s no problem. Still working great.

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The secret of success. The tip is rough in a microscopic way. Hackles, feathers and synthetics are hold very well.

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This is the rotary version of the C&F, which I sometimes like to use when tying smaller patterns.

Well, that’s it! My two cent on hackle pliers. These are the pliers I use since many, many years without any problems. Still working perfect.

Fly Tier’s Little Helper – Part 1 – Bug Bond Pro Light Mains Adapter

There are a lot of tools for the fly tier on the market. Some are good, some are useless, some are expensive but worth the money, some are cheap and still super usefull.

I used a lot of different tools and gimmicks in the last 20 years, and in this series I want to show things, which worked well for me and I’ll try to tell you why.

I begin with something very special, the Bug Bond Pro Light Mains Adapter.

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When you look at my flies, you’ll see that I work a lot with uv resin. No matter if I tie dries and nymphs or streamer and flies for pike, seatrout, asp, …

Working with uv resin means, you have to use a uv torch with maximun battery power to harden the resin. I often saw people using a torch with low power, wondering, why the resin won’t cure like it should.

Bug Bond offers a nice solution for the power problem: An adapter for your pro torch to connect it with your power supply at home. You just have to screw the adapter into the torch and you have a super strong uv torch every time.

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To connect the adapter with the torch, you have to screw off the switch at the end.

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Maybe you’re asking yourself how to switch on the torch without the switch at the end? With the Kit comes a solid foot switch like you know them from sewing machines. Just put your foot on the pedal and the torch will do it’s job.

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The torch is always hanging from on of my lamps on my tying desk ready for some action.

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I f you like to use uv resin for your tying, then I can recommend you the Mains Adapter. It’s super nice to use, you got always maximum curing power and you don’t have to care about the batteries.

I use the Adapter now several months and I don’t want to miss it.

THE BURNER – A Step By Step Tutorial

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This is a very durable and effective streamer pattern to imitate a small fish. It’s absolute versatile. Seatrout, trout, perch, asp, zander, … every fish which hunts for smaller fish is a good target for THE BURNER.

It looks good when dry, but it looks amazing when wet.

This is really a pattern which you should try.



  • Hook: Tiemco 811 S #4
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Ribbing: 0,25mm Mono
  • Body: UV Ice Dub Olive Brown
  • Back: Zonker Stripe
  • Front: Different colors of Senyo’s Laser Dub
  • Head: 3 D Eyes and Bug Bond Lite to secure it


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Wind on the lead wire and attach the mono for the ribbing

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Split the thread and put the Ice Dub between it. Spin the thread and brush the dubbing with your velcro, than wind the dubbing from the back to the front. Brush the body again with your velcro.

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Tie in a piece of a zonker stripe and rib it with the mono. Catch the mono at the front with your thread.

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Tie in some bunches of Senyo’s Laser Dub in the colors of your liking. The belly should always be brighter than the back. Finish with a whio finish behind the hook eye and comb the fibres back.

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Take your super glue and put two 3D eyes on each side. Then take Bug Bond Lite UV Resin and put a drop between the eyes on the top and on the underside. The thin resin soaks into the head. Use your Bug Bond torch to harden the resin. If you like, you can do some gills behind the eyes with a thin marker pen.

That’s it! A sweet baitfish pattern with the great movement of the zonker stripe and the cool translucent look of the laser dub.

Tight lines and some good time at the water!

Quick Baitfish Streamer Step By Step For Asp, Trout, Perch, Zander, …

This is a really quick step by step of a good baitfish pattern. Ok, to be honest, I just tied this fly for my fishing and took a quick shot from time to time. 😉

This baitfish looks ok when dry, but when it’s wet! Holy cow! It looks amazing! The Senyo Laser Dubbing gets semi-tranparent and there is a cool flash in the fly, too. The tail made out of arctic fox just moves fantastic in the water. One important fact is, that you have to stiffen the first 5 mm of the tail with Bug Bond Lite. So, the tail doesn’t tangle around the hook bend during the cast. Most flies with a really soft tail material behave like that and it is really a pain in the ass, when you strip your fly in and you see almost every cast, that it was tangled. When you put some weight in the front like lead wire or a tungsten bead, you get a nice jigging effect. Just give this fly a try. It’s durable, it’s tied very fast and it catches fish.

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Flash Tubes For Pike

Woke up early this morning, opened my front door and a very strong wind wafted into my face. Well, that’s autumn. So, no fishing today. Tied some flashy tubes for pike this morning. Each one is tied a little bit different. I’m curious which one will works best.

Quick flash tube

A quick flash tube using different colors of flash, bucktail, two grizzly hackles, Senyos laser dub and two eyes. Very simple, but it moves awesome in the water.