Playing With Colors

From time to time, I love to tie tube flies. Here, you can be very creative and play with colors. This tube got four wings (red, yellow, blue and black) and is weighted in the body. It’s not a show fly, it’s a real fishing fly. The head is made with Bug Bond. IMG_4992-1 (Large)

 

Sparkle Mayfly

Sparkle Mayfly. Wings are two colors of CDC (natural and white from Trout Line) with a few strands of very thin flash. There’s a little sparkle in the wings. It’s hard to show that on the picture, in reality, it’s looks very posh! Thorax is normal dubbing, wingcase is made from pheasant and the body is made with Polish Quills, secured with Bug Bond. Tails are synthetic Mayfly Tails. For the hook I’ve used a D23BL # 14 from Trout Line.

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Caddis Pupa with Tungsten Bead

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This is a little Caddis Pupa weighted with a tungsten bead as a head. The abdomen is made with thread, green Polish Quills and Bug Bond uv resin. Pheasant as wing case, also secured with Bug Bond, dubbing and some fibres from a partridge feather as legs. Very simple, but a good fishing fly.

Stickleback Zonker – Fly Tying Tutorial

I made a new little video about an easy to tie pattern of a Stickleback.

Seatrout Fly “Food” Video Tutorial

I made last night a video tutorial of a seatrout pattern for the Baltic Sea. I just called it “Food”, because maybe the seatrouts think it’s a little fish or a shrimp….just food.

Unfortunately Vineo reduced the quality of the video. I’ll have to work on this.

Anyway, I hope you’ll like it. I think I will do some more videos in the future. Maybe you tell me, what you think about it.

Caramel Shrimp Step By Step Video

This is the first time I made a video of the single steps to tie the fly. I hope you like it. The fly is a very good and looks even better in the water. Great pattern for Seatrout.

 

Flatwing Tobis

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Flatwing Tobis: Check!
I tied two of this flies 3 times. Tied it, cut it up, tied it, cut it up again, tied it a third time. I was just not satisfied with the result and I don’t put a “bad” fly in my box, because I know that I won’t fish it and I won’t give it away as a present. I just throw it in the trash after some years. Maybe the fish doesn’t give a damn, but if you don’t have faith in your fly, you won’t fish it the right way.

UV Shrimps and Flatwing Tobis

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Here is a spey shrimp tied with a little bit of uv materials. You can’t see them in normal light, jsut when you use your uv torch. Some say fish can’t see uv light, other say they have definitely more hook ups with flies tied with a bit of uv materials. I’ll let the fish decide… ;-)

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Last but not least a Flatwing Tobis

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Fly Tier’s Little Helper – Part 2 – Hackle Pliers

There are a lot of tools for the fly tier on the market. Some are good, some are useless, some are expensive but worth the money, some are cheap and still super usefull.

I used a lot of different tools and gimmicks in the last 20 years, and in this series I want to show things, which worked well for me and I’ll try to tell you why.

Part 2

Every fly tier needs a good hackle plier. You can find a lot of different pliers on the market. This are the two types I can highly recommend.

1. Dorin Hackle Plier

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You can buy it normally for less than 5,- €. It works great and has a lot of power holding different materials. I use it often, when I have to tie with a high strength, especially ribbing with mono. Just wind the mono two times around the wire. The only negative point for me is, that my finger does not fit into the loop of wire.

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This is the Dorin hackle pliers I use. It looks a bit shabby, but it’s over 13 years old.

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From time to time the plastic tubing is damaged and the materials begin to slip. To solve the problem is very easy.

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Just push the tube over the edge and cut it. Now it works like brand new. You can see, that it’s not necessary to do it often. Like I said, the one on the picture is more then 13 years old and it was used very often. There is still some tubing left. ;-)

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Here is the expensive one. C&F hackle plier. About 30,- € for the cheapest model. Well, a lot of money, but it’s worth every cent. It works perfect as an all around hackle plier. You can tie with it many years and it still works like on day one. The rubber pads are missing on mine, but that’s no problem. Still working great.

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The secret of success. The tip is rough in a microscopic way. Hackles, feathers and synthetics are hold very well.

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This is the rotary version of the C&F, which I sometimes like to use when tying smaller patterns.

Well, that’s it! My two cent on hackle pliers. These are the pliers I use since many, many years without any problems. Still working perfect.

Fly Tier’s Little Helper – Part 1 – Bug Bond Pro Light Mains Adapter

There are a lot of tools for the fly tier on the market. Some are good, some are useless, some are expensive but worth the money, some are cheap and still super usefull.

I used a lot of different tools and gimmicks in the last 20 years, and in this series I want to show things, which worked well for me and I’ll try to tell you why.

I begin with something very special, the Bug Bond Pro Light Mains Adapter.

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When you look at my flies, you’ll see that I work a lot with uv resin. No matter if I tie dries and nymphs or streamer and flies for pike, seatrout, asp, …

Working with uv resin means, you have to use a uv torch with maximun battery power to harden the resin. I often saw people using a torch with low power, wondering, why the resin won’t cure like it should.

Bug Bond offers a nice solution for the power problem: An adapter for your pro torch to connect it with your power supply at home. You just have to screw the adapter into the torch and you have a super strong uv torch every time.

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To connect the adapter with the torch, you have to screw off the switch at the end.

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Maybe you’re asking yourself how to switch on the torch without the switch at the end? With the Kit comes a solid foot switch like you know them from sewing machines. Just put your foot on the pedal and the torch will do it’s job.

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The torch is always hanging from on of my lamps on my tying desk ready for some action.

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I f you like to use uv resin for your tying, then I can recommend you the Mains Adapter. It’s super nice to use, you got always maximum curing power and you don’t have to care about the batteries.

I use the Adapter now several months and I don’t want to miss it.

THE BURNER – A Step By Step Tutorial

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This is a very durable and effective streamer pattern to imitate a small fish. It’s absolute versatile. Seatrout, trout, perch, asp, zander, … every fish which hunts for smaller fish is a good target for THE BURNER.

It looks good when dry, but it looks amazing when wet.

This is really a pattern which you should try.

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Materials:

  • Hook: Tiemco 811 S #4
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Ribbing: 0,25mm Mono
  • Body: UV Ice Dub golden olive
  • Back: Zonker Stripe
  • Front: Different colors of Senyo’s Laser Dub
  • Head: 3 D Eyes and Bug Bond Lite to secure it

 

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Wind on the lead wire and attach the mono for the ribbing

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Split the thread and put the Ice Dub between it. Spin the thread and brush the dubbing with your velcro, than wind the dubbing from the back to the front. Brush the body again with your velcro.

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Tie in a piece of a zonker stripe and rib it with the mono. Catch the mono at the front with your thread.

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Tie in some bunches of Senyo’s Laser Dub in the colors of your liking. The belly should always be brighter than the back. Finish with a whio finish behind the hook eye and comb the fibres back.

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Take your super glue and put two 3D eyes on each side. Then take Bug Bond Lite UV Resin and put a drop between the eyes on the top and on the underside. The thin resin soaks into the head. Use your Bug Bond torch to harden the resin. If you like, you can do some gills behind the eyes with a thin marker pen.

That’s it! A sweet baitfish pattern with the great movement of the zonker stripe and the cool translucent look of the laser dub.

Tight lines and some good time at the water!

Caddis Pupa with tungsten head – step by step

This is a good all around nymph to imitate caddis pupa. The vague looking nymph seems eatable to the fish. It’s a nice combination of a semi-transparent body and the mix of cdc, soft fibres and the dubbing mix of natural hare’s ear and ice dub. Not to flashy. Just that kind of nymph I personally like to fish.

The tying steps are self-explanatory, I guess. So here are just the materials.

If you got questions, just feel free to ask.

 

  • Hook: Tiemco 2488 #12
  • Weight: Tungsten bead
  • Body: greenish-yellow strands of a present bag, Polish Quill olive, Bug Bond Lite
  • Wing: CDC Puff from Troutline
  • Legs: Fibres of a Hen Hackle
  • Thorax: Dubbing Mix Hare’s Ear and Ice Dub, secured with Bug Bond Lite

 

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Quick Baitfish Streamer Step By Step For Asp, Trout, Perch, Zander, …

This is a really quick step by step of a good baitfish pattern. Ok, to be honest, I just tied this fly for my fishing and took a quick shot from time to time. ;-)

This baitfish looks ok when dry, but when it’s wet! Holy cow! It looks amazing! The Senyo Laser Dubbing gets semi-tranparent and there is a cool flash in the fly, too. The tail made out of arctic fox just moves fantastic in the water. One important fact is, that you have to stiffen the first 5 mm of the tail with Bug Bond Lite. So, the tail doesn’t tangle around the hook bend during the cast. Most flies with a really soft tail material behave like that and it is really a pain in the ass, when you strip your fly in and you see almost every cast, that it was tangled. When you put some weight in the front like lead wire or a tungsten bead, you get a nice jigging effect. Just give this fly a try. It’s durable, it’s tied very fast and it catches fish.

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SAMURAI TUBES

I was asked to tie some Samurai Salmon Tubes. This tube fly pattern was created by the famous salmon fly fisherman Mikael Frödin from Sweden.

It’s his version of a Sunray Shadow. It’s not a complicated fly to tie, but a fly, where you can see the fishing potential from the first sight.

Three green variations and three black with a bit of purple and magenta flash.

Worm Fly Step By Step

Every spring, the bristle worms (kind of a annelid) swarming in the Baltic Sea and the sea trouts are feeding like crazy these worms and you really should have a worm pattern in your fly box, because you’ll never now, when the swarming will start. This worm pattern moves fantastic in the water and it’s worth the effort, even if a normal wooly bugger will catch fish. If you have tied one or two, you’ll see, that it’s really easy and fast to tie once you know how.

The first one who showed me this awesome technique to tie these worms was the master fly tyer Andy Weiß, one of the most creative fly tiers in the world and I’m glad to call him my friend! He showed me a lot of tips and tricks over the years and I had some really cool and funny moments together with him in the last years. Andy, if you read this…what can I say…. cheers my friend! ;-)

Ok, back to business!

Here are the materials I’ve used:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 #2 and #4 in the back
  • Thread: Dyneema thread white and UTC Ultra thread 70 fl. shell pink
  • UV-Resin: Bug Bond
  • Coloration: Marker Pen pink
  • Tail: Marabou brown
  • Body: Dyneema fishing line, UV Polar Chenille olive brown, Worm Wool brown (knitting wool)
  • Weight: Tungsten bead

Put the hook into the vise and tie in a bunch of marabou. Build a kind of bubble on the hook shank. It’s easier to do it with a thicker thread instead of your normal tying thread.

Tie over the white bubble with your tying thread in the color of your choise. Coat it with Bug Bond uv-resin. If you like it a bit fancy, do some small dots with your marker pen on the bubble and secure it with a second thin coating og Bug Bond to get the 3D effect. The bubble should imitate an egg ball and gives the worm a nice bite point.

Put the tungsten bead onto the hook. Do a simple over hand knot in the dyneema fishing line and tie it onto the shank. Secure it with two drops of super glue and keep on tying and fold the dyneema back and forth like shown. No fish will destroy this connection!

Tie in the polar chenille and the worm wool.

Put the egg hook on the dyneema. That’s how you define the length of the fly. Grab the dyneema, polar chenille and the worm wool and twist it hard.

Grab the egg hook and bring the string to the hook eye and let the strings twist into each other.

Catch the strings with your thread and cut the polar chenille and the worm wool, but NOT the dyneema fishing line!

Wind the dyneema fishing line around the hook shank , put a drop of super glue on it and secure it with your tying thread very tight!

Tie in thwo another strings of polar chenille and worm wool and twist both strings. Give it a good brush with your velcro. Stroke all fibres to one side.

Cut in an angle with your scissors, so the fibres don’t got all the same length. Wind the twisted strands around the shank to the front and catch it with your thread. Cut the strands closely to the bead, do a whip finish and let some thin varnish soak into the front to secure everything.

Give the worm a complete brush with your velcro and you’re done! A superb worm fly with a great action in the water and some nice translucency, because of the polar chenille. It’s also a very durable pattern and you can tie it in all colors and sizes you like. If you don’t like flies with two hooks, just cut the hook bend of the front or the back hook close to the body.

P.S.: These worms also work very well in the freshwater…. ;-)

tight lines

Holger

Tube Fly Tying

My cam was lying next to me on my tying table and I made some quick pictures during tying. Just for fun. This is not really a step by step tutorial…

 

Marabou Sculpins

Tied these little marabou sculpins with Fish Skull Sculpin Helmets. I used the smallest size. Still easy to fish with a 4 or 5 weight rod. I colored the head by using marker pens and varnish.

 

Sedge Pupa Step By Step Tutorial

I posted this pattern some weeks ago on my blog and on Facebook and I was asked, if I could do a step by step tutorial about it. So, here it is. I hope you like it as much as I do.

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Maruto C47 BL # 12
  • Weight: Tungsten Bead Black Nickel
  • Thread: Dyneema
  • Body: Thread-Underbody, olive marker pen,  Flashabou, Polish Quills green
  • Resin: Bug Bond Lite
  • Dubbing: SLF light olive and cinnamon
  • Wings: Flashabou Mirage colored with a brown marker pen
  • Wing Case: Pheasant
  • Legs: Partridge

Put the hook with the tungsten bead in the vise.

 

Form the unterbody with your thread and tie in the Flashabou and Polish Quill.

 

Color the underbody with an olive marker pen and wind the Flashabou and then the Polish Quill around the body and secure it with your tying thread.

 

Put some Bug Bond Lite on the body and cure the resin with your Bug Bond torch. Then, tie in some strands from a pheasant tail feather as shown.

 

Dub some SLF light olive on the fly and tie in the brown colored Flashabou Mirage. Cut the Mirage like shown on the photo.

 

Dub the rest with SLF in cinnamon till you reach the tungsten bead.

 

Cut a “V” out of  a partridge feather and tie in the fibres of the partridge as legs. Then fold the pheasant strands to the front to create the wing case and catch it with your tying thread. Put a drop of Bug Bond Lite on the wing case incl. the thread with which you catch the pheasant. Cure the Bug Bond Lite with your Bug Bond torch and cut the thread. You’re done! The Bug Bond Lite makes it super strong! You don’t need to do whip finish!

 

That’s it! Now grab your fly rod and catch some nice trout or grayling or whatever you like to catch with nymphs and pupas!

tight lines!

Holger

Tangloppen For Seatrout

The Tangloppen imitates Gammarus and Idotea Baltica. These little crustaceans are a very important source of food for seatrouts, even if they are quite small. There are times, seatrout just feed on these small snacks. Also the very big fish, which normally chasing fish like herring and sandeels. So, you always should have some of these little nibbles in your fly box, when you fish in the Baltic Sea. ;-)

I tied these Tangloppen on a Gamakatsu F 314 hook # 4. This hook got a very big gap and a short shank. The body length is around 2cm.

For the tail and the antennas, I used Spanflex. The body is made out of a dubbing mix. The carapace is made with Pro Sportfisher Gammarus Shell # large, ribbed with mono and coated with Bug Bond uv resin. I didn’t use any weight, so you can fish the Tangloppen very slow, like the natural model.

New Toys For Boys

I was interested in the reels of the icelandic company Einarsson for quite a long time. I often grab them at my dealer and “play” with them. Not the cheapest reels on the market, but definitely one of the best. I really like the closed frame. You don’t often find closed frames.

With other reels it often happens, that when you use mono shooting line, it slips between the spool and the frame and that really sucks! A closed frame makes the reel also very strong by lightweight construction.

Well, here it is, my new Einarsson 5Plus. Perfectly machined reel with a super smooth sealed break. The colors name is “champagne” and it fits perfect to my Sage One rods. For a stylish guy like me, matching colors of the tackle is very important! ;-)

I bought it for my 6 and 7 weights, but you can fish it on a 5 weight with no problems. I guess it could also work on a 8 weight, when using very thin backing.

Can’t wait for the new season to start! :-)

Fish Candy

This is a Gammarus pattern, weighted with thin lead foil tied on a shrimp hook # 12. Super simple fly. Lead on the hook, some antennas or legs made from Coq de Lon, mono for ribbing, Pro Sportfisher Gammarus Shell black on clear coated with Bug Bond UV Resin, SLF Saltwater Dub fluo shell pink and tying thread. That’s it! Tasty! ;-)

Czech Nymphs

To be honest, I’m not a fan of czech nymphing. I just love to cast with a flyrod. Czech nymphing is super effectiv, no doubt about that. It’s just too less casting for my liking… ;-)

The Czech Nymphs on the other hand are pretty cool flies. I didn’t fish them much in the past, but I want to try them in the next season, especially the ones with a little hot spot. This is quite hard for me, because I got a lot more faith in natural colors. Maybe I was wrong all the time, we’ll see….

Czech Nymphs should be weighted AND as slim as possible to sink fast. That’s not the easiest task. You have to find the right amount of dubbing. Less is more!

I look forward testing them in a nice stream for trout and grayling. :-)

 

Hangover Fly – The First Fly Of 2014

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The first fly of the year, the Hangover Fly. A nymph # 14 with a tungsten Bead.

The last fly of 2013

This Caddis Pupa, tied on a Daiichi Klinkhamer hook # 14 was the last fly I tied in 2013.

Klinkhamer #12 on Daiichi D1160

A little tie from this morning. A Klinkhamer-style pattern with a wing post of CDC. The body is a mix of three different dubbings including Alpaka, a bit of flash and some synthetic dubbing twisted for a slim, tight body. I used a Daiichi D 1160 Klinkhamer hook # 12.

Some Poor Man’s Pattegrisen

A very good seatrout pattern. It’s a little bit easier and cheaper then the original Pattegrisen by Claus Eriksen. I’ve made a step by step some time ago, have a look here http://theonefly.com/?p=535

Have fun! :-)

Some food for trout and grayling

Autumn is almost over and the winter is coming… I already miss to fish for trout and grayling, which I’ve done this year not often enough….

Flash Tubes For Pike

Woke up early this morning, opened my front door and a very strong wind wafted into my face. Well, that’s autumn. So, no fishing today. Tied some flashy tubes for pike this morning. Each one is tied a little bit different. I’m curious which one will works best.

Quick flash tube

A quick flash tube using different colors of flash, bucktail, two grizzly hackles, Senyos laser dub and two eyes. Very simple, but it moves awesome in the water.

Laser Eel – Step By Step

I love to fish and tie sandeel patterns for sea trout in the Baltic Sea (a friend also caught Stripers and False Albacore with it very well btw).

My “Baltic Candy“, a variation of Bob Popovics famous Surf Candy, is after some years in use quite well known among the coastal fishermen, which makes me pretty happy and proud, to be honest.

This Laser Eel is another variation, which is quite easy to tie, maybe easier than the original Baltic Candy. The only difficulty is the use of uv resin on/in the Laser Dubbing, but there is no extra weight used, so the body becomes easily slick.

Just give this fly a try, it looks even better in the water. ;-)

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 1
  • Thread: Mono
  • Tail: Polar Fibre white and olive
  • Flash: Angel Hair Holographic Silver
  • Inner Body: Laser Flash Rainbow
  • Body: Senyo’s Laser Dub white and olive
  • Eyes: 3D-Eyes yellow 3mm
  • UV Resin: Bug Bond

Place the hook in the vise, tie in a piece of polar fibre in white, then a couple of strands of angelhair and another piece of polar fibre, this time in olive. It’s very important to comb the material carefully.

Wind some strands of the laser Flash rainbow around the hook shank and catch it with your thread.

Tie in a bunch of Senyo’s Laser Dub on top and underneath the hook shank and comb it backwards. Bring the thread to the hook eye and do a whip finish. Put the eyes on right place on both sides.

Put some Bug Bond on the head and let it soak into the Laser Dubbing. Cure it with your Bug Bond uv torch.

Apply another coating of Bug Bond to make the head nice and slick.

That’s it! The finished fly, very durable and fishy! Hopefully it brings a nice bend in your rod!

 

 

Light Sandeel-Pattern

This little Sandeel is made out of a hook, thread, eyes, holographic flash, polar fibre, angel hair and Bug Bond uv resin.

I want to use it in the Baltic Sea chasing seatrout during calm conditions and clear water.

Pike Tube Fly

I tied this pike tube on a clear Pro Sportfisher Flexitube using feathers, bucktail, different kinds of flash, ostrich, senyo’s laser dub and 15mm living eyes “ice” from Flymen Fishing Company. It got a total length of 22cm. Looking forward to cast this tube next to some crocs.

Another Tube Out Of The Vise

I was in the mood to tie a tube fly this morning. My friend, the famous dutch fly tyer André Miegies gave me a tube fly at the “Gronauer Lachstage” this year in may. I loved the color combination  he uses and I had to try it myself. Here is the result. I got a good feeling, when I look at it…. ;-)

Thanks again André!

Freshwater Shrimp with the new Gammarus Foil by Pro Sportfisher – Step By Step

This is a really natural looking freshwater shrimp. Easy to tie and very durable. It’s tied with the new multi colored Gammarus Shrimp Back from Pro Sportfisher and Bug Bond.

You can get the Gammarus Shrimp Backs in different colors and sizes. Here, I used the brown color in small.

It was never easier to tie a super realistic pattern in such a short time. I believe, that it’ll catch fish from Finnland to Italy!

 

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Tiemco 2487 # 12
  • Weight: Lead Foil
  • Ribbing: Mono 0,14
  • Back: Pro Sportfisher Gammarus brown # small and Bug Bond UV Resin
  • Dubbing: SLF Squirrel Spikey Dubbing mixed with Hends Spectra Dubbing
  • Tail: CDC Feather
  • Thread: Dyneema

 

Take the hook, push down the barb and put it in your vise. Cut a stripe of lead out of the lead foil and create a nice lead body.

 

Take a CDC feather and cut off a “V” from the tip. Tie the feather in as shown.

 

Take a shrimp back from the sheet and tie it in at the end. Tie also in the mono for the ribbing.

 

I used for this Gammarus a mix made out of Squirrel Dubbing and Spectra Dubbing. A natural color with a little bit of flash. Dub a not to slim body.

 

Fold the Gammarus foil to the front and catch it with you tying thread. Then, rib the body with the mono. Catch the mono, cut it off and finish the tying with a whip finish.

 

Now, take your Bug Bond and coat the back of the shrimp and cure it with the Bug Bond torch.

 

Pick out some beards and fibres with your dubbing needle to imitate the legs.

 

The finished shrimp, ready to fish.

 

The shrimp when wet. I don’t think, that a fish can resist.

Tight lines

Holger

Quill Nymph

That’s one of my all time favorite nymphs # 16 for trout and grayling.

Materials:

  • Hook: TMC 100 BL # 16
  • Tail: Coq de Leon
  • Abdomen: Polish Quill
  • Thorax: Masterclass-Dubbing
  • Wing Case: Pheasant
  • Legs: Partridge
  • UV-Resin: Bug Bond

Bad Ass Bass Banger – Step By Step

The Bad Ass Bass Banger – A streamer perfect for bass/perch and zander/walleye. It has a great action under water, because of the excellent moving tail, the jigging and the massiv front collar, which pushes a lot of water. It’s easy and fast to tie, durable and just a great fishing fly. The jigging can be controled by the weight of the brass dumbells.

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
  • Thread: Dyneema white and UTC fluo green
  • Dubbing: Ice Dubbing Chartreuse
  • Tail/Body: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
  • Front Collar: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
  • Head: Brass Dumbells with Eyes, Senyo’s Laser Dub fluo chartreuse + green/ chartruese, Bug Bond
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash

 

Put the hook in the vise, wind a good basement of thread and tie in the dumbell eyes. Use super glue during the tying, so the dumbells won’t slip around the hook shank during fishing.

 

Splitt the thread or make a dubbing loop, but the ice dubbing in the gap and twist it, then brush ist with your velcro-brush and wind it from the back to the front behind the dumbells. Then brush the dubbing body again.

Jab the hook through the leather of the rabbit stripe and tie the stripe right behind the dumbells down. Secure the punctured stripe with a little drop of super glue.

 

Bad Ass Bass Banger (15) (Mittel)

Tie in the krinkle mirror flash an each side. I prefer to use two or more different colors of flash. Split the thread again and put some rabbit stripe in a material clamp and cut away the leather. Put the rabbit stripe hair into the thread gap and twist the thread, then wind it around the hook next to the dumbells.

 

Bad Ass Bass Banger (17) (Mittel)

Change the thread and tie in the laser dub like shown on the pictures above on top and on the underside. The lighter color always belong to the underside.

 

Finish with a nice massive thread-head, which pushes the senyo back.

 

Push the senyo dubbing on the underside to the back and apply the Bug Bond on the underside and on the head.

Ready to fish! Wish you a lot of fun with the Bad Ass Bass Banger!

tl

Holger Lachmann

Pissed Off Shrimp

I tied a smaller shrimp on a Partridge CS 54 # 8, using the Pro 3D Shrimp Shell in XXSmall clear on pink base. The shrimp is weighted with a small tungsten shrimp weight. The legs are made out of CDC, the antennas are Whiting Rooster Spey Hackles. It’s not a really a complicated pattern and I’ll tie some more in different colors for my seatrout fishing in the Baltic Sea.

Pimp my rod – Sage One Griffumbau

Im Frühjahr 2012 kaufte ich mir eine Sage One der Klasse 4 mit einer Länge von acht Fuß und sechs Inch. Schon nach den ersten Testwürfen am Pool wußte ich, dass dies genau die Aktion ist, die ich haben wollte. Eine etwas parabolischere Aktion als ihre 9 füßige Schwester, aber immer noch zügig mit einem schnellen Rückstellungsvermögen.

Es ist eine super Allroundrute. Ich habe mit ihr kleinere Streamer an Sinkschnüren genauso gefischt, wie 20iger Trockenfliegen am 0,10er Vorfach.

Nach einer Saison mit einigen schönen Fischen bin ich immer noch sehr begeistert. Vielleicht sogar mehr als vorher.

Die Rute vor dem Umbau mit abgewandeltem Fullwellsgriff, Hakenöse und Standardrollenhalter

Ich kann es nicht leugnen, ich habe eine gewisse Vorliebe für Ruten der Marke Sage. Allerdings muß ich leider gestehen, dass ich mit den neuen Griffen, welche an den leichteren Ruten nun verbaut werden nicht so wirklich zufrieden bin. Diese abgeschwächte Fullwellsform beeinträchtigt die Griffhaltung doch erheblich.

Griff nach einer Saison vor der “Operation”

Ich bin kein ausschließlicher Zeigefingerwerfer, aber in manchen Situationen werfe ich gerne mit der Zeigefingerhaltung. Ich möchte zumindest die Wahl haben, wie ich werfen möchte.

Halbierter Korkgriff

Als ich am Korkgriff dann noch eine weiche Stelle entdeckte, reifte in mir der Gedanke den Korkgriff zu erneuern. Die weiche Stelle war natürlich genau dort, wo beim Wurf mein Daumen liegt, so dass ich sie immerzu spürte.

Nicht genug Kleber im oberen Bereich des Griffs, wodurch 1-2 mm Luft zwischen dem Blank und Kork entstand. Das ergab die “weiche Stelle”, die man immer gefühlt hat.

Mit meinem Kumpel Aik hatte ich das Thema schon einige Male durchgekaut. Anfang des Jahres sagte er dann, dass er zum Rutenbauer Jürgen Schmeißer aus Bochum fahren wird, da er diesen kennen gelernt hat und sich von ihm eine Ruten aufbauen lassen möchte. Ich solle doch mitkommen und meine One mitnehmen, so dass ein Fachmann sich die Rute/den Griff ansehen kann.

Der obere Teil konnte einfach mit den Fingern weggedrückt werden.

Ich machte mich im Internet über Jürgens Arbeit auf seiner Internetseite www.rutenbau-bochum.de natürlich gleich schlau. Klar, man will ja sehen, was der Herr Rutenbauer kann, bevor man ihm sein „Baby“ anvertraut. Was ich im Internet sah, gefiel mir sehr gut, so dass ich mit Aik am 03.02.2012 nach Bochum fuhr.

Korkgriff wurde entfernt.

Jürgen begrüßte uns in seiner schicken Werkstatt sehr herzlich und bat uns gleich Kaffee an. Was ein Service! :-)

Während Jürgen den Kaffee machte, schlenderten Aik und ich erstmal durch die Werkstatt und den Raum für die Rutenbaukurse / Rutenbauclub und schauten uns die Spinn- und Fliegenruten, Blanks, Rollenhalter, etc. an. Wir waren gleich begeistert! So müssen Ruten aussehen und nicht anders!

Der Rollenhalter wurde mit der Flex angeschnitten.

Jürgen gab uns einige Ruten zum „Probeschwingen“ in die Hand. Es ist schon erstaunlich, wie anders sich handaufgebaute Ruten im Vergleich zur normalen Rute aus dem Laden anfühlen können, auch wenn es der gleiche Blank ist…

Ich habe ja ehrlich gesagt keine Ahnung von Spinnruten, da ich seit meinem 15. Lebensjahr nur noch mit der Fliege fische, aber Jürgen reichte mir eine Spinnrute, welche sich vom gefühlten Gewicht eher nach einer Fliegenrute anfühlte, dabei aber sehr flott war. Hat mich schon sehr beeindruckt.

Entfernung des Rollenhalters.

Der Blank war von der neuseeländischen Firma Composite Developments (CD) , für die Jürgen der Ansprechpartner in Deutschland ist. Auch deren Fliegenrutenblanks gefielen sehr. CD-Blanks kannte ich bisher auch noch nicht, aber in der Welt der Rutenbauer ist diese Firma wohl schon seit langem sehr bekannt. Jürgen erklärte mir, dass die Macher der Firma CTS, welche in den letzten Jahren auch in Deutschland sehr bekannt geworden sind (der Name sagte auch mir sofort etwas), früher alles Mitarbeiter der Firma CD waren.

Entfernung der Reste des Kork und des Rollenhalters.

Während wir beim Käffchen zusammen saßen und Jürgen und Aik die Rute planten, verguckte ich mich in die wahnsinnig schönen Holzspacer für die Rollenhalter, welche Jürgen selber anfertigte. Als die Planung von Aiks „Zauberstab“ abgeschlossen war, meinte Jürgen „So, was kann ich denn für dich tun?“. Ich erklärte ihm mein Anliegen: „Alter Kork weg, Fliegenhalter entfernen, Kork erneuern und verlängern.“

Jürgens Antwort: „Kein Problem, frag nicht wie viele Griffe für Sage One-Ruten ich 2012 erneuert habe….! Nimm mal ein paar Ruten in die Hand und sag mir, wie der Griff aussehen soll bez. Länge und Form.“

Meine Wunschform und -länge war schnell gefunden. Dann kam die Frage, die ich befürchtet habe: „Soll der Rollenhalter auch erneuert werden?“

Der Windingcheck und die unnötige Hakenöse werden entfernt, damit der Griff verlängert werden kann.

Tja, eigentlich hatte ich das ja nicht vor. Der funktionierte ja problemlos. Als ich aber die ganzen fantastisch gemaserten Hölzer sah….dagegen sah der Originalrollenhalter richtig schäbig aus.

„Ach, wenn ich schon dabei bin, dann erneuere den Rollenhalter auch gleich mit.“

„Ok, dann such dir mal das Holz für den Spacer und die eigentliche Halterung aus.“

Das war dann wirklich schwierig, da es einige sehr schöne Hözer gab, die mir sehr gut gefielen.

Am Ende entschied ich mich für einen Nickel-Silber Rollenhalter mit gestockter, stabilisierter Buche.

Vorselektion der Korkscheiben.

 

Dazu muß ich jetzt mal ein paar Worte verlieren. Ich wußte auch nicht, was sich hinter dem o.g. Holz verbirgt, es sah nur einfach genial aus.

Buche war klar, aber gestockt?

Gelernt habe ich folgendes: Wenn der Stockschwamm die Buche durchzieht, ergibt dies eine bestimme Färbung und Musterung. Dieses Stück „gestockte“ Buche wird im Vakuumverfahren stabilisiert. Das Holz muss komplett trocken sein, dann wird ihm im Vakuum jegliche Luft entzogen, welche sich im Holz befindet. Anschließend wird mit Druck ein spezielles Harz in die Poren des Holzes gedrückt. Dadurch wird das Holz komplett wasser- und witterungsbeständig. Es ist quasi ein Hybridwerkstoff entstanden. Man könnte das Holz unlackiert fischen, sogar im Salzwasser und es würde nichts passieren. Durch eine Lackierung kommen allerdings die Farben und die grandiose Musterung noch besser zur Geltung.

Erlesene Auswahl der Korkscheiben.

Ich hatte Jürgen gebeten vom Umbau einige Bilder zu machen, da ich neugierig war, wie die Rute unter dem Korkgriff aussah. Die weiche Stelle am Griff entstand durch Luft zwischen Blank und Kork. Auf den ersten oberen 5 cm war so gut wie kein Kleber, welcher den Kork am Blank hielt. Nachdem Jürgen den Kork halbiert hatte, konnte er den oberen Teil einfach wegdrücken.  Der untere Teil hatte wieder einigermaßen genug Kleber.

Anpassung des Rollenhalters auf den Blankdurchmesser.

Sowas darf an einer Ruten im Premiumsegment einfach nicht vorkommen! Das traurige ist, dass andere Griffe ähnlich teurer Ruten teilweise noch schlechter sind als die Griffe von Sage. Im Allgemeinen merkt man, dass die Qualität der Korkgriffe immer weiter abnimmt, egal bei welcher Marke. Ich fürchte, das wird in der Zukunft auch nicht besser. Manche Hersteller verwenden ja jetzt schon komplette Rubbercork-Griffe.

DIe vorbereiteten Komponenten. Die Korkscheiben haben die Bohrung erhalten, der Rollenhalter und der unterste Korkring wurde dem Aufnahmering des Rollenhalters angepaßt.

Jürgen sagte mir, dass er von 1000 Scheiben Premiumkork der höchsten Güte nur ca. 200 Scheiben wirklich verbaut, er sich also das Beste an Kork heraussucht, das es heute gibt.

So perfektionistisch kann natürlich keine Firma in der Menge produzieren, dass muss man fairerweise sagen.

Die Korkscheiben werden zusammengeleimt…

… und gepresst.

 

Anpassung

Montage von Griff, Rollenhalter und dem Winding-Check

 

Der Korkgriff wird in Form gebracht.

 

Das Ergebnis des Umbaus
kann man auf den Bildern ja sehen. Ich bin mehr als nur zufrieden!

Die fertige Rute.

 

Jürgen hat wirklich perfekte Arbeit geleistet. Die Rute liegt fantastisch in der Hand, der exquisite Kork hat eine super Haptik und der Rollenhalter ist einfach ein Augenschmaus!

 

Nochmals besten Dank Jürgen!

So muß eine leichte Rute meiner Meinung nach aussehen.

 

 

Allerdings spuckt mir jetzt schon wieder die Idee einer feinen 2er oder 3er Trockenfliegenrute im Kopf herum…natürlich handgefertigt, nach meinen Vorgaben….

;-)

 

Wunderschön, die gestockte, stabilisierte Buche mit dem Nickel-Silber.

 

Schöne Kombination mit der Danielsson FW 2-six.

 

 

Schöne Kombination mit der Danielsson FW 2-six.

 

Kontakt zu Jürgen Schmeißer über seine Internetseite www.rutenbau-bochum.de

Jürgen bietet auch einen Ruten-Club an, in welchem die Mitglieder alle Maschinen nutzen können, zudem steht Jürgen mit seinem Wissen zur Verfügung. Wem eine Clubmitgliedschaft zu viel ist, und nur mal in die Welt des Rutenbaus hineinschnuppern und seine eigene Rute aufbauen möchte kann eine Art 10er-Karte erwerben.

Ich finde es sehr cool, dass ein Rutenbauer sein Wissen offenbart und anderen hilft. Hätte ich nicht über zwei Stunden Anfahrt, würde ich dort sicherlich auch meine Ruten selber bauen.

 

Schöne Kombination mit der Danielsson FW 2-six.

 

…warm up for the ADH-Fishing Spring Fair

I’m invited to tie at the spring fair of ADH-Fishing on march 2nd+3rd, 2013. I’m really looking forward for this great event. Guests will be Christopher Rownes, Mikael Frödin, Stefan Bauer from the Vision Team, Andy Weiß, Allan P. Bloch from Guideline, Jens Kilian and Sepp Fuchs.Big names in casting and tying!

The fair is a big highlight every year! I hope to see you there! It will be a blast!

TOF PIKE FLY (79)

Pro Sportfisher Magazine

Here it is, the Pro Sportfisher Magazine 2013!

Click the link or the picture to visit the Pro Sportfisher Magazine.

http://www.prosportfisher.com/images/stories/Pro%20Sportfisher%20magazine%202013.pdf

Pro Magazine

Watch it online, or download it as a PDF!

You can find really cool articles and step by step tying tutorials! I’m really proud to be a member of the Pro Staff family with big names like Morten Bundgaard, Sören Flarup, Mikael Lindström, Jokke Edin, Andy Weiß, Nils Folmer Jorgensen, April Vokey, Johan Put, Steen Thams, John Peterman and Long Nguyen.

Check it out!

…waiting for the trouts…

I tied a lot of bigger patterns in the last couple of weeks like streamers, pike flies, tube flies, flies for seatrout, etc. ….

This is the first smaller pattern I tied since a long time. Just can’t wait to fish with a light rod for trout and grayling again, but I still have to wait some month… enough time to fill my fly boxes with fresh nymphs, dries and emerger.

For this one I used the following materials:

  • striped peacock quill coated with Bug Bond
  • natural cdc wing post
  • yellow and brown cdc hackle
  • alpaka dubbing for the thorax
  • tied on a 1167 Daiichi # 14

p1140354-mittel

 

Articulated Pike Streamer

Well, it’s raining, wind is blowing really strong and the snow melts. Right weather to tie a fly, watching fish porn and dreaming about the fishing season to come.

I used the 35mm Articulated Shanks and the new Living Eyes “Ice” from Flymen Fishing Company for it for this pattern, together with arctic fox, zonker stripe and Senyo’s Laser Dub.

pike-pink-blue-white-mittel

Mean Green Pike Piercer

A cold sunday afternoon. After a very stressful week, I was sitting at my tying desk, not directly knowing what to tie. I just let my ideas flow. The result is a big pike tube fly, the “Mean Green Pike Piercer”. It’s tied on a Pro Sportfisher Flexi Tube and for the head I used a Pro Softhead.

pro-pike-tubelogo-mittel

Pro Tube Baitfish Step By Step

When I was a child, I got a big box full of LEGO. I loved to play with it for hours! Ok, my mom was often not so happy, because after playing, my room looked like after an explosion of a bomb. :-)

I still “play” with a kind of LEGO today. Well, it’s more like a fly tying LEGO. I’m talking about the tube fly system from Morten Bundgaard, owner and chief creative of Pro Sportfisher. Like Lego, everything fits together perfectly. It’s just so fun to be creative and to find out, how much is possible.

For this step by step of the Pro Tube Baitfish, I used several products of Pro Sportfisher, especially the new Pro Raw Weights made out of tungsten and the brand new Pro Softheads, which are awesome. Perfect alternative to epoxy and uv resin for cool heads.

Materials:

  • Pro Flexitube clear
  • Pro Soft Sonic Disc clear
  • Pro Raw Weight
  • Pro Softhead
  • STS-Dubbing Fluo Flame
  • Ice Dub Pearl
  • Arctic Fox White
  • Pro Angelhair HD Pearl Green
  • Senyo’s Laser Dub White and Olive
  • 3D Eyes

Put the Pro Flexitube on the Pro Tubefly-Needle and do some turns with the thread. Split the thread and put some STS-Dubbing ind the gap and spin the bobbin. After twisting, give the dubbing a good brush with your velcro and wind it around.

Put a little bit of super glue on the thread and do some turns. Cut of the thread and put a clear Pro Soft Sonic Disc on the tube. In front of the disc, attach the thread to the tube again.

Take a bunch of fox and tie it in directly in front of the disc. Take some strands of Pro Angelhair HD and tie them in, too. At last, take another bunch of fox, slightly longer than the first bunch, spread it a little bit and tie it on top.

Split the thread again, put some ice dub pearl into the gap, spin the bobbin and brush the twisted dubbing. Wind the dubbing around, brush it again and put the Pro Raw Weight in front of the dubbing. This will give the tube a nice balance with a little bit jigging.

Take the white Laser Dub and tie it underneath the tube, then so the same with the olive Laser Dub on top. If you want, you can give the dubbing on top some dots or stripes by using a permanent marker.

Make a short whip finish and cut off the thread. Put the Pro Softhead on the tube and border the tip of the tube with your lighter. Just do a little drop of super glue into the recess and glue in some 3D-eyes of your liking. That’s it, you got a great baitfish tube! Just attach a single hook like the Owner Mosquito for example and you are ready to go!

New Zonker Muddler

This a kind of pimped Muddler Minnow. I use a piece of zonker stripe for the tail, some fancy dubbing mixed with flash dubbing, krinkle flash, a deer hair muddler head, funky eyes and and a heavy tungsten bead to get it down to the predators. One of my absolut favorite streamer pattern for trout and seatrout!

 

Missing Link

Missing Link – Everything comes together:

Rabbit Stripe, Articulated Shank, Krinkle Flash, Crazy Legs, Ostrich, SLF+Flash-Dubbing, Arctic Fox, Deerhair-Head and nice Eyes.

Super Easy Anti-Crinkle Bite Tippet For Pike and Musky

I always hated to fish bite tippets made out of steel wire, because after a short time they started to crinkle.

Since two years, I fish bite tippets made out of “Knot2Kinky”. No more crinkle during normal fishing, cheap, easy to do and very light weight. Everything what I wanted from a bite tippet!

Let me show you how I “tie” these bite tippets:

You need Knot2Kinky with the strength you wanted them, Bug Bond, a snap, a dubbing needle or a nail, a side cutter and 2 minutes of time.

Take a piece of Knot2Kinky in the length you want the tippet +6 cm. For my standard tippets I use 36 cm Knot2Kinky. When it’s done, it’s around 30 cm long.

Make a perfection loop on the one side. A nail or the dubbing needle helps to tighten the knot.

Take a side cutter and nip away the waist. Be carefull, the end ot the Knot2Kinky is sharp like a needle after cutting it.

Put a little drop of Bug Bond on the knot of the perfection loop. This will secure the loop and save you for being stung by the edge of the Knot 2Kinky.

Cure the Bug Bond with the uv torch. Do all the preceded steps again on the other end of the Knot2Kinky wire.

Now, you only have to attach a snap on the one side and you got a great bite tippet!

Last point, go to your water and catch a big, mean, toothy predator! ;-)

tl

Holger

Great Dubbing Mixes In 30 Seconds

Here is a super easy and fast way to mix dubbings. You only need the dubbings, a wire brush for pets and a dubbing neddle.

Here are the dubbings I choose for this demo. Two bright colors and flash dubbing.

Make a sandwich out of the three dubbings.

Take the dubbing sandwich and stroke it into the wire brush.

Take your dubbing needle to pull the dubbing out of the brush.

Here is the first result after the first round. Looks nice! If you want the dubbing do be better mixed, go for another round on the brush.

Here is the result after the second round on the wire brush.

Finally the result after the third turn on the brush. Super mixed two toned dubbing with flash highlights in less than 30 seconds!  What could be more easy?

tl

Holger Lachmann

….big is beautiful…

After tying some flies for grayling in size 18 & 20 I decided to tie two pike flies on Partridge Predator hooks size 4/0 as an equalization….one very colorful, the other one in muted colors….

Tied mainly with rabbit stripes and arctic fox.

p1120501-mittel

Articulated Pike Streamer In The Water

I made two short videos how the articulated pike streamer move in the water. The blue streamer is the same as the white/olive one, just another color. Due to the big head made from uv-resin, the craft fur keep its volume in the current and moves really nicely!

 

p1120427-mittel

 

p1120302-mittel

 

Easy Pike Zonker Step By Step

One of my most fished patterns for pike. It’s easy to tie, very durable, you can tie it in the length you want and it wiggles nice through the water. You can also use arctic fox for the front collar instead of finn raccoon. Works well, too.

Materials: 

  • Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 1/0
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: Ice Dub Holographic Silver and Ice Dub Pearl mixed together
  • Wing/Tail: Finn Raccoon
  • Flash: Gliss’n Glow Pearl, Krinkle Mirror Flash Pearl and Lateral Scale Pearl
  • Front Collar: Finn Raccoon or Arctic Fox
  • Hot Point: Fluo Thread
  • Eyes: Deer Creek
  • Head: Bug Bond

Tie in a piece of mono for the ribbing and mix ice dub pearl and ice dub holographic silver. Then split the thread and put the dubbing mix into the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing. Wind the dubbing hank around the hook shank and give it a good brush with your velcro.

Tie in a piece of finn raccoon zonker 5mm next to the hook eye. Then ribb the raccoon zonker with the mono to secure it on the hook shank and catch the mono with your thread.

Tie in the krinkle mirror flash and the gliss’n glow. Then form a loop with your thread and wax the loop. Put a piece of finn raccoon in the loop and cut away the leather. Twist the loop with the raccoon slowly. When the fur is secured in the loop, wind the raccoon around the shank to the hook eye. Comb the twisted raccoon after every turn.

 

Tie in a strand of lateral scale pearl on each side and split the thread. Put again some dubbing in the gap und twist the bobbin Wind the twisted dubbing around and brush it with your velcro to give the head some extra sparcle.

 

If you like it, you can do a little hot point with some fluo thread. Glue some sexy eyes on the head and secure the head with Bug Bond.

Ready for pike!

tl Holger Lachmann

Articulated Pike Streamer Step By Step

Here’s an example for an articulated pike streamer, which is easy to cast, because we try to create volume without putting to much material into the fly. To much material makes the just inflexible (and expensive ;-) )

I used for this pattern the new articulated shanks from the Flymen Fishing Co. in 35mm to get the right movement and position of the hook.

 

Material:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SL 12 S # 4/0  (be carefull, they are soooooo sharp!)
  • Articulated Shank: 35mm from Flymen Fishing Co.
  • Tail and Wing: Arctic Fox chartreuse and black
  • Feather: Green Grizzly Hackle
  • Body: Ice Dub Pearl
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash pearl and Flashabou Mirage Saltwater
  • Eyes: Hareline fluo yellow
  • UV-Resin: Bug Bond

 

Put the hook into the vise, do some turns with your thread and tie in the fox as tail and some strands Flashabou Mirage.

 

Split your tying thread or form a dubbing loop and put the ice dub between and twist it. Then brush it with your velcro and wind it around the hook shank.

 

Tie in some fox with the tips pointing to the hook eye, cut the waste, put again some dubbing between the thread, twist it and wind it to the front. Then go with the thread between the fox hair to the hook eye.

 

Push the fox hair with an empty pen towards the hook bend. Then tie in a green grizzly hackle on each side and some strands of krinkle mirror flash. Whip finish and secure with super glue.

 

Attach the hook with the articulated shank and put the shank into your vise. Then close the gap with a strong thread and super glue (the little pearls on the thread) to fix the hook. This will hold forever!

 

Create another dubbing hank and wind it around to create a little bump. Then tie in a bunch of artic fox on the hook shank and a bunch underneath. Comb the hair carefully. Another dubbing hank will follow.

 

Tie in two green grizzy hackles and some krinkle mirror flash. Then comb a bunch of black arctic fox and tie it in like shown on the picture. Trim away the waste and do some rounds with dubbing and do a quick whip finish secured with super glue.

Push the black fox backwards, attach the eyes and secure the whole head with Bug Bond.

That’s it! Ready to go. Have fun with the pikes!

Holger Lachmann

Poxy-Fox

When I first tied this pattern, I used epoxy for it. That’s why there’s “Poxy” in the name of the fly. Today I use uv-resin for it, but I didn’t wanted to chance the name. ;-)

When you tie this pattern, it’s very important, that the resin soaks into the braid at the end of the fly to fix the marble fox, so it won’t tangle around the hook bend while casting. The materials used are:

  • Gamakatsu F314 # 2
  • Mono thread
  • 3D Eyes
  • Marble Fox olive
  • Krinkle Mirror Flash
  • Ice Dub golden olive
  • Felix Cord olive
  • Permanent Markers
  • UV-Resin

You can also tie in some lead wire if you want, to create a jigging effect for example.

The Poxy-Fox looks really massive on the picture, but in the water it got some translucency. That’s the reason, why you should dub a thin body before slipping the flexi cord around the hook shank.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Fleye Foil Fox Candy – Step By Step

Here’s a Surf Candy style pattern tied with the new Fleye Foils by Bob Popovics. The tail made out of arctic fox wiggles nice in the water. Much better than most synthetics. It’s not just a battern for the saltwater fisherman, you can also fish it in freshwater. Small sizes for trout and char for example, bigger ones for asp. Just give it a try.

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
  • Thread: Mono
  • Tail: Arctic Fox
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash Pearl
  • Body: Senyo’s Laser Dub, Bob Popovics’ Fleye Foils “Silverside” and uv-resin

 

 

Tie in the arctic fox as tail and 3 strands of krinkle mirror flash, one on each side and one on top.

 

3mm in front of the fox, tie in a bunch of white senyo’s laser dub on the top of the hook shank and one underneath.

 

Do the same with a bunch of laser dub holographic minnow belly 3 mm infront of the white dub.

Now, pick two colors of laser dub of your liking, here it’s light olive and shrimp pink, and tie it in like you see above.

Pull the laser dub backwards, that’s how you put a bit of volume to the head, otherwise it won’t fit to the shape of the foil.

Put a foil on each side. Just tie in the little “nose” of the foil with a couple of turns and whip finish the fly.

Pull the laser dub and the foils backwards and start to apply the uv resin on the body. The resin should soak into the dubbing, that gives the fly later some translucency. Mostly it’s easier to applicate two layers of uv resin. You got much more control of everything.

If you don’t use a tackfree uv resin, put a thin coating of nail varnish on the uv resin to get a tackfree glossy finish.

That’s it! Ready for fishing!

tl

Holger Lachmann

A closer look at: Bob Popovics’ Fleye Foils

Lutz Schepers from www.theflypeople.com asked me some weeks ago, if I wanted to test the new Fleye Foils by Bob Popovics. I always liked the flies and ideas of Bob Popovics, so I surely wanted to test his newest idea. The foils imitate the eyes, the gills, the silver belly and flanks on one side of the fly with just one simple tying step.

I don’t know the reason why, but when I got the foils, I didn’t felt the inner drive to test them immediately. Maybe I didn’t wanted to do the normal Sury Candy with it.

This morning, I did the first tests with the smallest “Bay Anchovy” foils. The fly you see below is the first try. It’s a really simple fly made out of a hook, mono thread, different colors of Senyo’s Laser Dub, Fleye Foils and uv resin. It doesn’t look to shabby for a first try, I think.

The Fleye Foils are easy to use. You just have to tie in the “nose” next to the hook eye and push the sticky backsides of the foils against the flanks of the fly. One or two coatings of uv resin and you are done.

After tying some patterns with Fleye Foils, I have to say, that if you want to make Surf Candy-style flies as fast and easy as possible, the foils are an enrichment. The only thing I would suggest to improve is, to give more expression to the eyes.

tl Holger Lachmann

Baltic Candy Step by Step

 

Everybody knows Bob Popovics’ famous Surf Candy. A really great pattern to imitate bait fish and sandeels. I always loved this pattern. The only thing I didn’t like was the stiff material, which is used for it. For my seatrout fishing in the Baltic sea, I wanted the pattern to move more like the real sandeel.

I was always a fan of soft materials, so I tried polar fibre which looks fantastic underwater and moves really nice. The big problem: It was wrapping around the hook bend while casting, which was annoying. The solution was to expand the epoxy body behind the hook bend. This prevents the tangling extremely well.

Another important feature is the weight in the front of the fly which causes a strong jigging effect. The natural behavior of a sandeel when chased by a predator is that it swims as fast as it can to the bottom to hide in the sand. The jigging effect imitate this behavior.

I think I tied now over 1000 Baltic Candies and they changed a lot over the last years. The first years I used 5minute epoxy for the body and I developed some tricks to build a perfect smooth body without a lot of efforts. I showed these tricks at a lot of fairs in the last years and there was always an “Aaah!”-effect for the audience and even for some of the other tiers, but I wouldn’t tell you the tricks! ;-)

Why? The answer is quite simple. I don’t use epoxy anymore. I was annoyed by the yellowing of the epoxy after some months. It doesn’t matter which epoxy brand you are using, everything turns yellow! You don’t tie a BC in 5 minutes, that’s for sure, so it’s hard to see your with love tied flies turning yellow. The other important point is, that epoxy is very unhealthy.  So I changed to uv-resin, which means all my nice epoxy tricks were useless….but that was not to bad, because working with uv-resin is quite easy, especially when you are working with “tackfree”-resin.

A Baltic Candy wet and dry

My Baltic Candies becomes smaller and thinner over the years, because of a lot of improvement. It’s harder for the fish to find out if it’s real food or not, when the fly looks a bit blurry in the water. Another advantage is, that a slim sandeel pattern with weight in the front flies through the air like a dart. Even with your hand you can throw a Baltic Candy several meters! Try this little experiment with a normal fly….you’ll see whats happened. ;-)

Bernd Ziesche with perfect baltic silver. You can see my Baltic Candy on the cork handle. ;-)

This sbs is for a “fully dressed” Baltic Candy. You can use less flash if you prefer it. Personally I got Baltic Candies with different amounts of flash material.

Two important tips: First, strip the Baltic Candy really fast through the water with some stops. You could never, really never(!), strip the BC too fast. We could never reach the speed of a spin fishermen, so there is no “too fast”.

Secondly, it could happen that the polar fibre is a bit disarranged after you caught a fish. Just use a velcro on your jacket or vest as a comb to brush the BC.

At last, I have to thank my buddy Bernd Ziesche (great guide, superb casting instructor and owner of the fly fishing school www.first-cast.de) for his tests and comments over the years!

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 2 or 1
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Body: Twisted Flash silver/pearl
  • Bite Point: UV-Thread orange
  • Wing: Polar Fibre (white, misty blue, olive), Angel-Hair holographic-silver
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash pearl
  • Eyes: Stick-On-Eyes
  • UV-Resin: Bug Bond
  • Thread: Uni-Mono

 

Wind the lead wire around the hook shank and secure it with super glue.

 

 Tie in the twisted flash.

 

Twist the flash and wind it to the front and catch it with your thread.

 

Tie in a little hot bite point at the end of the shank.

 

Tie in a bunch of white polar fibre on the underside of the fly.

 

Tie in the angel-hair.

 

Tie in bunches of blue and olive polar fibre.

 

Tie in two strands of krinkle mirror flash on each side and do a whip finish.

 

Pull the fibres with your left hand and apply the Bug Bond and cure it with your uv-torch.

 

Put the stick-on eyes on each side and apply the second thin coating of Bug Bond. The Baltic Candy is tackfree and now ready for fishing. If you are a crazy fly tyer like myself, you apply a third quick coating of Bug Bond, which gives really a smooth high end finish (“black” photo)!  ;)

That’s it, the Baltic Candy, my modified version of Bob Popovics’ famous Surf Candy.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Mini Sculpin Step By Step

 

I was invited to tie at the Dutch Fly Fair last weekend. A small Mini Sculpin pattern was lying on my desk in front of me while tying. It was less then 5 cm long. A lot of people liked it, especially Walter Bayer from Ireland (great flytyer) and Roger Enger Lie (great caster) from Norway and I had to promise to them, that I will do a step by step tutorial of this little guy.

So guys, this one is for you! ;-)

 

Material:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 4
  • Weight: Tungsten Bead
  • Tail: Pine Squirrel Zonker
  • Pectoral Fins: Pine Squirrel Zonker
  • Head: Senyo’s Laser Dub
  • Eyes: 3-D Eyes

 

Put a tungsten bead on the hook.

 

Tie in a piece of pine squirrel zonker as a tail.

 

Put some pine squirrel hair in the clamp, then split the thread and put the hair in the gap.

 

Rotate the bobbin to twist the hair and the thread. Put a litlle bit of water on the hair, so it’s easier to wrap it around the hook shank.

 

Tie in bunches of Senyo’s Laser Dub. Remember, this is a up side down pattern, so tie in the bright color on top of the fly and the dark color underneath. You can create different shades by using different colors. Finish the tying with a whip finish behind the tungsten bead.

 

Now, start the cutting to create a sculpin head. The easiest way is to begin with the flat underside.

 

Before the cutting is finished, use some superglue to fix the 3-D eyes on top of the sculpin head and press the eyes into the Laser Dub to give the head strength. Now, you can do the final cutting.

That’s it! A small sculpin which swims down on the bottom of the river, because of the tungsten bead.

Note: Please press down the barb of the hook! Trouts will take the sculpin very aggressively!

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

PAPS – Pink Articulated Pike Streamer

 

Sometimes it is just fun to tie such kind of a monster fly. This pike streamer with a length of 27 cm is articulated to give the fly the maximum of flexibility.There is just one hook in the middle of the fly.

It’s a combination of natural hair and feathers together with synthetics, which creates a big shape and the effect of mass without being to heavy when wet. It’s still possible to cast it with a 8 weight + rod and a pike taper line or a shooting head.

Asp Streamer Step By Step

The asp is a fun fish for the fly rod. I got some friends, who are really go nuts, when the weather gets warmer and the asp starts to splash through the surface while hunting for baitfish.

The best fly colour for asp is white, so a white 3-D baitfish imitation works well for them. You need to put some weight into the fly, because often you fish in fast water for asp and you don’t want the baitfish pattern to flip over the surface instead of swinging some centimeters below it.

Arctic fox moves fantastic in the water, but you got often the problem, that the hair tangles around the hook while casting. You can avoid this by puting some uv resin on the fox near the hook to make it stiff. That’s an easy way to create a tangle-free fox fly.

 

Material:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Tail: Arctic Fox White
  • Flash: Electra Scale Pearl
  • Body: Hareline Ice Dub Minnow Belly
  • Head: Hareline Senyos Laser Dub
  • Eyes: Deer Creek
  • UV-Resin: Deer Creek Diamond Hard Tack Free

 

Wind some lead around the hook shank and secure it with super glue.

 

Tie in some arctic fox and some strands of electra scale on each side. Secure the fox with uv resin next to the hook and cure it with the uv torch.

 

Make a loop with your tying thread and put some ice dub in the gap. Twist the loop with your dubbing twister and brush the dubbing with your velcro brush to create a fluffy dubbing strand.

 

Wind the twisted dubbing around the hook shank and brush it again.

Tie in some laser dub on the top and on the bottom like shown on the picture.

 

Put some eyes on each side of the fly by using super glue and paint some gills on each side with a permanent marker.

On the first picture, you can see how nice all the materials look, when wet.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Movie ‘Gaula – River of Silver & Gold’ by Daniel Göz and Anton Hamacher

My Blu-Ray of “Gaula – River of Silver & Gold” by Daniel Göz and Anton Hamacher just arrived this morning. I put it directly into the player… ;-).

It’s one of the best flyfishing movies, that I’ve ever seen. It’s no fish porn, that fact should be clear. It’s more! It’s about the water, the nature and the great atlantic salmon.

Some scenes of the movie makes you breathless, together with the sound, they are epic! Big words, I know, but that are my fresh feelings some minutes after the end of the movie. The quality of the pictures and the camera rides are amazing.

Highly recommendable!

You can watch the trailer ( and buy the DVD or Blu-Ray, if you like it) here:

http://www.gaulathemovie.com/

Enjoy!

2012 Fantasy pike fly challenge – by Simon Graham

Legendary pike fly fisherman and pike fly tyer Simon Graham starts a really cool challenge in 2012.

Rules

Players pick 4 flies for the season 12 flies to choose from (Found in the left sidebar)
6 tubes
6 hooked
6 substitute flies (3 x tubes & 3 x hooked) 5 flies will be tied for each specific fly design, and will be used through out the season. Once each fly becomes unusable to fish with, it will be replaced with a new one until all five are finished. Flies will be regularily photographed to show their condition throughout the Fantasy league challenge.

Points tally

Points will be tallied up at the end of each week and added to the league table in the sidebar so players can see where they are standing 1 point will be given for each fish caught
2 extra points will be awarded for a fish over 75cm (2,46 ft)
4 extra points will be awarded for a fish over 85cm (2,78 ft)
6 extra points will be awarded for a fish over 1 meter (3,28 ft)
I will alternate between using tube flies one days and hooked flies the next and each fly will be changed after each fish caught which will even out the playing field so to say!

Substitutions

1. Substitutions will be submitted as and when I feel the need to change the playing field. for example certain flies will perform better during different times of the year.
2. 3 x substitutions will take place throughout the course of
the season.
3. Each player gets to choose one tube and one hooked fly they would like to change. The flies that get the most vote for that specific substitution period get used!

Play offs!

1. On the 30th September all the points will be tallied up and the top 10 players will go into the October play offs which will end on the 31st October.
2. All the flies will be brought back into play for each of the ten players.
3. Players can then choose to either keep the ones they have or change to other models during the play offs.
All entrants need to be submitted by the latest 15th May. Send your entry name to uivelon_kierros@yahoo.co.uk with (2012 Fantasy pike fly challenge) as a header

 

Please visit Simons challenge website: http://fantasypikeflychallenge.blogspot.de/

 

Mayfly Flex Stretch Nymph – Step By Step

Here’s the step by step tutorial for a mayfly nymph pattern, to imitate the BWO for example. This pattern is durable and looks quite like the natural, when drifting through the river. Don’t use too much material when tying these kind of nymphs. You should always keep the slim original in your mind.

This pattern is another example, how usefull uv-resin could be, when tying even small flies for trout and graylig. For this fly I used Clear Cure Goo Hydro, which is highly fluid like water. It’s perfect for smaller patterns and is soacked up by dubbing and feathers, what makes the flies really durable.

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Daiichi D 1270 # 14
  • Weight: Flat Lead
  • Tail: Pheasant Tail Fibres
  • Abdomen: Flex Stretch Olive
  • Wing Case: Pheasant Tail Fibres & Clear Cure Goo Hydro
  • Thorax: Oliver Edwards Masterclass Dubbing & Clear Cure Goo Hydro
  • Legs: Partridge

 

Put the hook into the vise and wind the flat lead on the hook shank. Do a second layer of lead on the front part like shown on the foto.

 

Tie in three pheasant tail fibres to imitate the tail of the mayfly.

 

Tie in a small piece od stretch flex and wind it aroung the hook shank.

 

Cut a piece out of a pheasant tail feather and tie it in for the wing case.

 

Take a partridge feather and cut a little piece out of the tip. Then tie the partridge feather in with the tip first.

 

Dub the thorax, then fold the partridge to the front and catch it with your thread next to the hook eye.

 

Put a little drop of Clear Cure Goo Hydro on the stem of the partridge feather to join the dubbing with the feather. Cure the CCG Hydro with the uv torch. The hackle stem and the dubbing are joined together now. Nothing will ever slip and the legs will stay as shown on the photo.

 

Fold the pheasant to the front and catch it with your tying thread. Put a little drop of Clear Cure Goo Hydro on the wing case and cure it with the uv torch.

 

The wing case is now very durable after curing the CCG Hydro. If you want a shiny wing case, that’s what I prefer, put a second drop of CCG Hydro on the wing case and cure it. Now, the mayfly nymph is ready for fishing.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Quill Body CDC Emerger No. 2 – Step By Step

It’s the end of April and the trout and grayling season will start soon.

Here’s another very good emerger pattern, which imitates some different may fly species, depending on the colour and size. It’s tied on the new Daiichi 1167 Klinkhamer hook, designed by the famous dutch fly tyer Hans van Klinken.

The Daiichi 1167 got a stronger wire compared to the Tiemco 212Y for example, which makes sure, that the abdomen hangs deep in the surface. That’s really important and that’s the reason, why this pattern got no tail or a trailing shuck, to make sure, that the abdomen is hanging deep in the surface.

The quill body is covered with a thin coating of Diamond Hard Tack Free UV Resin by Deer Creek.

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Daiichi 1167 # 14
  • Abdomen: Polish Quills & Diamond Hard Tack Free UV Resin by Deer Creek
  • Thorax: Oliver Edwards Master Class Dubbing
  • Wing case: CDC
  • Wing: CDC
  • Legs: Partridge

 

Put the hook into the vise, do a layer of thread and tie in a stripped peacock quill. Wind the quill around the hook shank and catch it with the tying thread.

 

Put a little drop of Diamond Hard Tack Free UV Resin on the stripped peacock quill and spread it on the abdomen. Cure it with your UV torch.

 

Tie in two CDC feathers for the wing case. Then tie in the tip of another white CDC feather as a crippled wing.

 

Dub the body and tie in some partridge fibres to imitate the legs. Fold each CDC feather to the hook eye and catch it with the tying thread. The CDC wing should be exactly in the middle of the feathers.

 

Cut the CDC feathers for the wing case and do some turns with your whip finisher to create a little head. Varnish the head, if you like. That’s it, ready for fishing. ;-)

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Grey Magnus Step By Step

 

This pattern is so famous….no more words about it, let’s start tying! ;-)

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
  • Tail: Grey Grizzly Marabou / Chrystal Flash Pearl
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: Hare’e Ice Dub Hare’s Ear from Hareline / Grizzly Hackle
  • Front Hackle: Dun Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Eyes: Bead Chain Eyes

 

Do a layer of thread on the hook shank and tie in the grizzly marabou as a tail.

 

Tie in two strands of pearl crystal flash on each side of the marabou and fix the mono for the ribbing.

 

Spin some dubbing around the thread and dub the body. Don’t dub the body to tight, because we want to brush it later.

 

Tie in a smaler grizzly hackle and wind the hackle from the front to the back around the dubbing body. Rib the dubbing body and the hackle turns with the mono from the back to the front and catch the mono with your tying thread. Give the body a nice brush with your velcro-brush.

 

Take a dun grizzly saltwater hackle and prepare it like shown on the picture. Tie it in and wind it around the hook to create the front hackle.

 

Take some bead chain eyes and tie them in. After some turns around the eyes, put a drop of super glue between the eyes to secure them, then keep winding the thread around the eyes. That’s how you create a strong bead chain head. If you fix the eyes with loose turns of thread, they will slip around the hook shank. That’s it, the Grey Magnus.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Some Magnus-Flies for the Seatrout-Flies gallery

I added some pictures of different Magnus to the gallery. The Magnus is a very popular pattern for seatrout in the Baltic Sea, especially the Polar-Magnus in the winter time.

A ‘must have’ in every fly box of a coastal fishermen. I’m sure it will work for other fish species, too.

Magnus

Polar Magnus

 

Olive Magnus

 

Brown Magnus

A closer look at: Fish Skull by Flymen Fishing Company

 

I tie and fish with Fish Skulls since fall 2011 now. When I first saw them, I wasn’t really sure if I like them or not. They looked very massiv and heavy. I thought they were to heavy for my kind of fishing. I was wrong.

 

 

The Fish Skulls are not made out of tungsten or brass like other metal heads on the market, they are made out of aluminum.The weight of the aluminum is big enough to give the fly a nice jigging effect and bring ít down to the fish, but light enough for easy casting.

You can buy them in different sizes. For my fishing, the small Fish Skulls work great with wide gap hooks like Gamakatsu F 314 # 6 or #4.

underwater picture of a Fish Skull Zonker

underwater picture of a Fish Skull Zonker

 

The biggest weight of the Fish Skulls is on the lower part, which works like a keel, so the fly always swims straight. That’s the reason, why it’s really easy to tie up side down patterns, just switch the head.

great upside down pattern for deep hunting perch

great upside down pattern for deep hunting perch

Every package contains 10 Fish Skulls and the eyes, which you just fix with a small spot of super glue on each side. I like to “pimp” the Fish Skulls with other eyes, like fluo eyes.

It’s easy to tie with the Fish Skulls. Just tie your fly and leave a little space next to the hook eye. Apply a drop of super glue and slip the Fish Skull of the hook eye on the fly. You can create a little “thread dam” between the Fish Skull and the hook eye, but I think you don’t have to, because the super glue will secure the Fish Skull really tight. Sometimes I like to give the fly a hot spot by using fluo thread for the “thread dam”.

As you already know, I’m a really big fan of zonker stripes, so the first try with Fish Skulls where the combination of zonker stripes and Fish Skulls and it works perfect! I fish them since then in this combination.

I haven’t used the Fish Skulls for seatrout fishing in the Baltic Sea yet, but I think they will work there as good as for my freshwater fishing.

In my opinion, the Fish Skulls are worth to give them a try.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Zonker-Fish step by step

 

Zonker stripes are one of my favorite materials for tying streamers. The Zonker-Fish is a really simple pattern made out of a zonker stripe, which is very durable and, most important, it catches fish.

You can find a lot of color examples in my photo album Streamers.

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
  • Weight: Lead
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: Flash Dubbing
  • Wing: Zonker Stripe
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
  • Head: Flash Dubbing, Clear Cure Goo
  • Eyes: Clear Cure Eyes Solar Flare

 

Wind on some lead wire and secure it with super glue.

 

Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing.

 

Mix two colors of flash dubbing.

 

Split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap. Then spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing.

 

Wind the dubbing around the hook shank and brush it with your velcro brush.

 

Tie in a zonker stripe at the front and rib it with the mono from the back to the front.

 

Tie in a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and form a little head with flash dubbing.

 

Use some super glue for fixing the Clear Cure Eyes on each side and fill the space between the eyes on top and bottom with Clear Cure Goo to create a durable head.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Spring fair at ADH-Fishing

I’m very happy to be invited again to tie at the spring fair of adh-fishing in Peine on 3. + 4. march 2012.

As always it’ll be a great weekend with great casters and fly tyers like Christopher Rownes, Allan Bloch, Leif Stävmo, Mikael Frödin, Andy Weiß and more.

The best thing there is the atmosphere. You don’t feel like entering a shop, which is getting bigger and bigger btw, you feel like coming to friends!

I really LOVE the casting pool behind the shop, where you can test cast every rod, no matter single hand or spey rod, from Sage, Guideline, Orvis, Vision, Loop, Scierra and Scott.

Yeah, it’ll definitely be a fun weekend!

BE THERE OR BE SQUARE ! ! ! :-)

 

 

Matuka Streamer

Here’s a step by step tutorial for a matuka streamer. This type of streamer is very old and you don’t see it to often in the fly boxes of the fishermen today, but the truth is, that the feathers move nicely, especially when you put some weight in the front of the fly, which causes a jigging effect.

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
  • Feathers: Keough Saltwater Grizzly Hackle, Keough Saltwater Hackle
  • Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing white and ginger
  • Eyes: Deer Creek Gator Eyes
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
  • UV-Resin: Deer Creek Diamond Hard Tack Free Resin
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Ribbing: Mono

 

Wind some lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.

 

Create a little dubbing ball at the end of the hook shank, tie in a saltwater hackle and wind it around. The dubbing ball pushes the fibres to the sides.

 

Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing. Split the tying thread and put the dubbing mix in the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing. Wind the dubbing around the hook shank and brush it with your velcro .

 

Take two feathers and pull some fibres from one side as shown on the photo. Tie in the feather at the front and secure them by ribbing them with the mono. Catch the ribbing with your thread.

 

Tie in some strands of krinkle mirror on each side and do a whip finish with your thread. Take two gator eyes and put them on each side. You should use super glue to secure them. The fly is nearly finished. Just take some Diamond Hard Tack Free resin and let it run between the eyes, then cure it with your uv torch. Repeat this till the gap between the eyes is filled. This makes the fly very strong and durable.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Cellphone Shrimp

Last night I wanted to tie a CDC-Shrimp. I’d just done the first few wraps with the tying thread, when my cell was ringing. My buddy Aik was calling. So, what to do? Stop tying? No way! :-) I clamped the cell between my ear and my shoulder and continued tying with this “special” posture…. When I finished the telephone conversation, the fly was finished too, including the back with Clear Cure Goo.

To be honest, I was concentrated on the call and was wondering, that the fly looked no too bad either. I should always tie without thinking! :-D

 

 

The Soft Brown Grizzly

 

Another all around seatrout fly. This pattern is inspired by the famous fly “Omøborsten”. This fly is mainly tied out of soft Keough grizzly saltwater hackles, which pulsate strongly in the water. I made a little video at the end of the tutorial, where you can get a slightly impression, how the fly mowes in the water.

Materials:

  • Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 6
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Tail: Dubbing & Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: SLF Dubbing & SLF Prism Dubbing, Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Front: Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Hot Spot: Fluo Thread

 

Wind the lead wire around the front part of the hook and secure it with super glue. Then create a little dubbing ball at the end of the fly.

 

Tie in a really big and soft hackle.

 

Wind the hackle around the hook shank.

 

Tie in some pheasant tippets.

 

Tie in the mono for ribbing. Then split the thread, put the dubbing in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the thread and the dubbing. Wind the Dubbing around the shank.

 

Tie in another hackle…

 

…wind it towards the end of the fly. Secure the hackle by ribbing the it with the mono. Then brush the body, so the dubbing strands are mixed with the hackle fibres.

 

Tie in another big hackle at the front. This big front hackle pushes the water and creates much turbulance.

 

Create a nice little hot spot with your fluo thread and varnish it. That’s it!

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

click to play the video

Small Zonker-Baitfish

 

I like….no, I love streamers, which are easy to tie, but they always have to play nicely in the water. Zonker stripes are one of my favorite materials since a long time. It’s durable, easy to tie in and most important, it moves in the water like hell.

This little fellow is only about 5 cm long (less than 2 inches). The front part with dubbing and the eyes is coated with uv-resin, in this case I used Clear Cure Goo (CCG) which works really well. First I used CCG Hydro, which is fluid like water, to fix everything, than CCG Tack Free for the final coating.

It’s an all around baitfish pattern, which can be used for any type of predators. I tie it on a saltwater hook and nip down the barb, when using in freshwater. So I use often the same fly first in spring for seatrout and later in the year for brown trout.

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 4
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: SLF Prism Dub in tan
  • Back and Tail: Zonker Stripe
  • Eyes and Head: 3 D Eyes, SLF Prism Dub and Clear Cure Goo

 

Wind the lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.

 

Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing.

 

Split the thread, put the SLF Prism Dub in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.

 

Wind the twisted dubbing around untill you reach the middle of the shank.

 

Tie an piece of zonker stripe.

 

Rib the Zonker with the mono and catch the mono with your thread.

 

Here you can see the nice profile of the zonker.

 

Dub the head in the same way like the body and brush it with your velcro brush.

 

Put some eyes on the head and and secure it with Clear Cure Goo Hydro. Then put a final coating of Clear Cure Goo Tack Free on the head.

 

No bubbles like with epoxy, just clear resin so you can see the hot twinkle of the Prism Dub.

 

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Poor Mans Pattegrisen

The famous shrimp fly “Pattegrisen” is one of the most popular seatrout patterns of the last years for the fly fishermen at the Baltic sea. It’s a very large fly with a great movement in the water. The key-material are Rooster Spey Hackles from Whiting dyed in the colour salmon. The long soft  fibres pulsate, when retrieving with some stops . Lovely!

But there’s a little problem…. the original Whiting Rooster Spey Hackles are expansive. Some years ago you payed about 35,- € for a bronze grade cape, now about 80,- to 90,- €!

That’s the reason I tied the “Poor Mans Pattegrisen”. This pattern is much cheaper, easy to tie and, believe me, it looks really nice in the water! The main ingredient are Whiting HEN Spey Hackles dyed in salmon. They are much cheaper and softer as rooster hackles, but not as long as the original.

Just give the Poor Mans Pattegrisen a try, maybe also in different colours, it’s worth it!

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 6
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Feeler: Whiting Hen Spey Hackles, Fluo Fibre, Krinkle Mirror Flash
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Eyes: Black Shrimp Eyes
  • Body: Whiting Hen Spey Hackles, Spectra Dubbing
  • Roof: Whiting Hen Spey Hackles
  • Hot Spot: UTC Thread fluo. pink

 

Wind some lead wire around the front part of the hook shank and secure it with super glue.

 

Tie in a spey hackle with the tip first.

 

Wind the hackle towards the hook eye and catch it with your tying thread.

 

Tie some strands of fluo fibre on each side of the feeler.

 

Tie in a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and form a little dubbing ball.

 

Tie in the shrimp eyes. The dubbing ball helps to split the eyes nicely.

 

Tie in a piece of mono and a spey hackle.

 

Dub the first part of the body, wind the spey hackle around it and catch it with your thread.

 

Tie in another spey hackle and dub the rest of the body.

 

Wind the hackle around the dubbed body and secure it with your thread, then rib the body with the mono to make it strong and durable.

 

Brush the fly with your velcro brush, so the dubbing fibres are mixed with the hackle fibres.

 

Tie in another spey hackle…

 

… wind it around and secure it with your thread.

 

Take 3-4 spey hackle and equalize the length.

 

Tie in the spey hackles as a roof of the fly.

 

If you want, you can create a little hot spot with fluo tying thread.

 

Varnish the head or put some uv-resin on it. Voilà! The “Poor Mans Pattegrisen”!

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Tying after walking in the cold

At noon, I decided to do a little walk next to my home river Weser. It was – 7°C and it was snowing. A lot of ice floes were drifting down the river. It looks pretty impressive. I passed a little creek which flow into the Weser and my thoughts were flying into the future summer month, where hungry trout and grayling were rising constantly….

Back home I tied some quick dry flies size 12 with duo colored CDC wings and quill bodies, secured with uv-resin. Looking at these little creatures, I can’t await casting a dry fly to a rising fish again….

Quill CDC Emerger

A simple, but quiet effective mayfly emerger.Tie it in different sizes and colours to match the hatch. The body of the emerger should hang deep in the surface. Never put some floatant on the body, only a bit on the thorax and the wings if necessary. With the amount of uv-resin on the quill, you can control, how deep the fly should hang in the surface.

This pattern often made my day, when other patterns were ignored.

Materials:

  • Hook: TMC 212Y # 13
  • Abdomen: Stripped Peacock Quill and UV-Resin (use tack free resin, if not, you have to coat the resin with nail polish)
  • Thorax: Alpaka Dubbing
  • Wings: CDC and for splitting some Yarn

 

Tie in a stripped peacock quill.

 

Wind the stripped quill around the hook shank and catch it with your thread.

 

Put a layer of uv-resin around the quill body to secure it.

 

Tie in a piece of yarn.

 

Tie in a bunch of CDC fibres.

 

Spin the dubbing around the thread.

 

Dub the thorax.

 

Fold the yarn to the front to split the CDC and catch it with your thread.

 

Whip finish the fly and cut the CDC in shape.

 

View from underneath.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Biot CDC Parachute

Turkey biots are very good for tying dry fly bodies. They swim really well.

I don’t discribe every tying step here, because they are the same (except the biot abdomen) as you have seen at the quill body CDC parachute tutorial.

Materials:

  • Hook: TMC 100 # 16
  • Tail: Micro Fibetts
  • Abdomen: Turkey Biot
  • Wing: CDC
  • Hackle: Whiting Genetic Dry Fly
  • Thorax: SLF Masterclass

 

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Wiggle Fox step by step

Material:

  • Hooks: Gamakatsu F 314 # 6
  • Tail: Fox Tail Hair
  • Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing, SLF Prism Dubbing and a Hackle
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Weight: Tungsten Bead or Lead Wire
  • Optional: 3 D Eyes secured with UV-Resin

 

Put a hook in the vise and tie in some fox tail hair. Put a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and tie it in.

 

Mix the dubbing. I used SLF Saltwater Dub in pearl and ginger and a little bit of SLF Prism dub.

 

Tie in the mono for ribbing, split the thread, put the dubbing in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.

 

Wind around the dubbing, tie in a hackle next to the hook eye and wind it backwards, then wind the ribbing to the front to secure the hackle. Catch the ribbing and do a whip finish. Use a velcro brush to comb the fly.

 

Cut the hook bend.

 

Put another hook in the vise and wind some lead wire on the front of the hook.

 

Tie in a piece of mono for the connection between the two pieces.

 

Connect the two pieces like above. Use super glue to fix everything.

 

Tie in another piece of mono for ribbing, then split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and wind it around to the front.

 

Wind around a hackle and rib it with mono like you’ve done with the first section.

 

You can finish the fly or dub a little head, put some 3 D eyes on each side and secure them with uv-resin.

tl                                                                                                                                        Holger Lachmann

Wiggle Fox

The principle of articulated flies is very old. I don’t really know the reason, but it’s not really common to fish articulated flies for seatrout in the Baltic Sea. I always like the movement of fox tail hair in the water, but there was always a big problem. The tail was raveling behind the hook bend when casting in many times. It was annoying to strip in the line, to see on the last meters, that the flies doesn’t swim correctly.

One and a half year ago I had the the idea to tie articulated flies with long hair from a fox tail. After some tests, I realized, that the flies swim perfectly in the water, without raveling during the long casts you do.

The movement of the long tail together with the joint gives the fly a maximum of flexibility. Especially, when you put some weight into the fly at the front.

 I would recommend to retrieve the fly quiet fast with some stops .

Wiggle Fox for Seatrout fishing in Argentina

Wiggle Fox for Seatrout fishing in Argentina

 tl

Holger Lachmann

Fast CDC Dun

A fast to tie mayfly dun pattern made out of CDC. It floats very well and is durable. I like to fish it in semi-fast running water. Micro fibetts, 2-4 CDC feathers (colour of your choice)  and a bit yarn, that’s all you need. I don’t know who invented this pattern, but I think it was Marc Petitjean.

Materials:

  • Hook: Maruto D04 BL # 12
  • Tail: Micro Fibetts
  • Abdomen: CDC Feather
  • Thorax and Wing: CDC Feather, Yarn

 

Tie in a loop of thread and 3 micro fibetts. Split the fibetts with the 2 piece of thread after cutting the loop.

 

Tie in a CDC feather with the tip first. Twist the feather and wind it around the shank. Then cut all little fibres, so that you’ve got a nice tapered CDC body.

 

Tie in a piece of yarn.

 

Preparing the CDC

 

Split the thread and put the prepared CDC in the gap. Then spin the bobbin to twist the CDC and the thread.

 

Wind the twisted CDC around the hook and pull it up with your fingers after every turn.

 

Seperate the the CDC with the yarn, to create the two main wings of the mayfly. Catch the yarn with the thread.

 

I like to fold the yarn back again, tie it in and cut it, so I make sure I’ve got a nice free hook eye.

 

A whip finish to secure the fly. Take your scissors…

 

…and cut the fly in shape. That’s it! If you tied some of them, you need less then 4-5 minutes to tie it.

 

Fish view

 

tight lines                                                                                                                         Holger Lachmann

Quill Body Parachute with CDC Wing

A superb all around mayfly pattern, which lies nicely flat and realistic on the water. Tie it in different sizes and colours to match the hatch. Personally I like to use CDC for the wing instead of polypropylen on the smaller sizes. It just looks more naturally.

Materials:

  • Hook: TMC 100 # 16
  • Tail: Micro Fibetts
  • Abdomen: Stripped Peacock Quill, UV-Resin
  • Wing: CDC
  • Hackle: Genetic Dry Fly Hackle
  • Thorax: SLF Masterclass Dubbing

 

Tie in a loop of tying thread and the end of the fly.

 

Tie in 3 micro fibetts, cut the thread loop and seperate the fibetts with the 2 pieces of thread.

 

Tie in a stripped peacock quill.

 

Tie in the tips of some CDC feathers as a wing.

 

Wind the peacock quill around the hook shank and catch it with the thread next to the wing.

 

Put a drop of tack free uv-resin on the quill body to secure it. Make sure, that there’s just a thin coat on the body.

 

Tie in the hackle as shown.

 

Dub the thorax.

 

Wind the hackle around the wing post and catch it with the thread underneath the hackle.

 

Cut of the hackle and do a whip finish underneath the hackle. A little drop of really thin varnish secures the whip finish. Ready to go!

 

View from below aka “the fish view”.

 

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Golden CDC Seatrout Fly

Most people use CDC for all kinds of dry flies, but it’s a good material for streamer or for example shrimp pattern, because of the movement under water.

This is an easy pattern, which works really great for seatrout, especially when you’ve got sunny, calm weather. Works well for the baltic garfish too.

This fly doesn’t immitate a specific animal, it just looks like food for the seatrout. A little bit like a shrimp, a small baitfish or a mysis.

Materials:

  • Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 10
  • Tail: golden CDC and 2 fibre Micro Chrystal Flash
  • Ribbing: Mono 0,14mm
  • Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing Pearl and Ginger
  • Body and Front Hackle: golden CDC
  • Weight: Lead Wire

 

Wind thin lead wire around the front part of the hook shank.

 

Use some CDC fibres for the tail.

 

Add two fibres of Micro Chrystal Flash.

 

Tie in some mono for ribbing. It’s imortant to fold the mono back and catch it with the thread, so it can’t slip when pulling tight for the ribbing.

 

 

 

SLF Saltwater Dubbing in Pearl and Ginger before mixing

 

Mixed dubbing.

 

Split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap.

 

Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing.

 

The first part should be 3/5 of the shank.

 

Bring the thread to the front.

 

Again, split the thread, put the dubbing between…

 

… and dub from the front backwards to the beginning of the already dubbed body.

 

Split the thread and put CDC fibres in the gap. To prepare the CDC i like to use the Marc Petitjean Magic Tool.

 

Spin the bobbin to twist the CDC.

 

Wind the CDC to the eye of the hook, whip finish, brush the whole fly with a toothbrush and varnish the head. The fly is finished.

 

I tried to show you how the fly looks in the water. The SLF becomes semi-transparent. Together with the CDC looks the fly like it’s alive and yummy.

tight lines                                                                                                                   Holger Lachmann

Extended Body CDC Caddis

When it’s getting dark on the river, the caddis often become very active. It’s really fun to fish then a big caddis fly surfing over the surface. Sometimes the trouts go mad and take the fly very aggressive.

I don`t want to check all the time, if the fly is floating well. The fly should float like a piece of cork all night long. That`s why I like to use materials like CDC and foam for those kind of flies. If you want to treat the fly with fly floatant, you should use a highly fluid floatant like Water Shed. Very important, Water Shed must be completely dried before fishing.

Materials:

  • Hook: Maruto C47BL # 12
  • Extended Body: Foam
  • Wing: CDC and Moose Hock
  • Top: Pheasant
  • Body and Legs: CDC
  • Antennae: Moos Hock

 

Put a needle in your vise and tie a layer of thread. Very important: Use NOT a waxed thread. If you do, you may get problems pushing the finished body from the needle.

 

Put a 3 mm wide strip of foam on the needle.

 

Create some nice segements with your thread. If you got problems creating the body, just google “extended foam body”. There you find some nice videos.

 

Finish the body behind the last segment with a whip finish.

 

Pull the extended body from the needle and tie it in.

 

With a permanent marker you can give the body a nice colour.

 

As a wing, tie in three CDC feathers. They should be longer than the body.

 

Over the CDC wing, you should tie in some moos hock hair in the same length like the CDC. It push the CDC down, so the wing is always flat over the body and it increase the floatability. Then tie in some fibres from a pheasant tail. Split the thread, put in some CDC and twist the the thread by rotating the bobbin. I like to work with the Petitjean Magic Tool when preparing the CDC.

 

 

If necessary, repeat spinning the CDC and wind it around a second time.

 

Fot the antennae I used two hair of moose hock.

 

Pull the pheasant fibres foreward and catch it with the thread.

 

Spinn some CDC as dubbing around the thread and create a little head, then fold the pheasant fibres back, cut it and whip finish the fly.

 

To secure the thread and the pheasant use a bit of varnish or really thin uv-resin, which makes the fly very durable.

 

Finished fly from underneath, or “the fish view”. ;-)

tight lines                                                                                                                    Holger Lachmann

Closer look at: Senyo’s Laser Dub

Some month ago I started playing around with Senyo’s Laser Dub.

I don’t really like it for the normal dubbed bodies, but for creating 3-D heads and bodies of flies, it’s really cool stuff.

You can put it in a dubbing loop, brush it with a velcro-brush and wind it around or stack it like you do with deer hair, which works best for me do get really compact bodies.

The combination with a zonker stripe works really great. The flies got a lot of volume and the zonker stripe moves really nice in the water.

I gave some friends baitfish patterns tied with Senyo’s Laser Dub for some tests. The results were really good. Perch, trout, asp, chub and seatrout (biggest one was around 70 cm) were caught. When you fish those patterns in strong currents, you should put some weight in the fly or fish with a sinking line.

Here are some examples.

 

 

Tangloppen

I like to use a dubbing mix made out of some nice dubbings. Choose whatever you want. One part of the dubbing should be a little bit spiky.

 

Mix the dubbings together. Here’s my result.

 

Other materials I use for the Tangloppen (scud in the baltic sea).

 

Tie in the short marabou tail. Most common hook sizes are # 12 – #8.

 

Tie in the mono ribbing and the body stretch.

 

Dub the body.

 

Turn over the body stretch and catch it with the thread next to the hook eye.

 

Rib the body with the mono.

 

Tie in the antennas, make a whip finish and varnish the head. At least brush the dubbing body with a velcro brush to imitate the little legs. Voilà! A nice little easy to tie Tangloppen. Sometimes this small fly is really, really good for seatrout.

I like my Tangloppen unweighted, so I can fish it very slowly and in really shallow water over beds of seaweed.

I posted this step by step instruction already on my Facebook page, but I think it’s an important pattern for seatrout, so it should be part of the blog.

Tungsten Quill Body Nymph Step By Step

Put a tungsten bead on the hook (here it’s a TMC 2312 #12)

 

Tie in some fibres from a Coq de Leon hackle as tail.

 

Tie in stripped peacock quill.

 

Create a tapered body with the tying thread.

 

Wind the quill around the hook shank. The dark side of the quill should point to the hook bend.

 

Put a small drop of uv-resin on the body and cover the quill with a small coat.

 

The uv-resin after curing. Now, the quill body looks really nice and it’s secured against the trouts teeth. A tack free uv-resin works best.

 

Tie in some pheasant tail fibres for the wing case.

 

Tie in a hen hackle with the tip first. The hackle will create the legs of the nymph.

 

Dub the thorax with a dubbing of your choice. I used SLF-Spicky-Dubbing.

 

Fold the hen hackle first and then the pheasant tail fibres to the hook eye and catch it with the thread close to the tungsten bead.

 

Cut the hen hackle and the pheasant tail fibres close to the tungsten head and make a whip finish.

 

Finish the fly with a drop of uv-resin on the wing case.

A heavy nymph with quiet a real shape, nice colours and very durable.

 

Holger