My old pedestal base of my Dyna King vise looked a little bit shabby after some years of tying. It also didn’t like the black color, because you couldn’t see black hooks on it very good. So I decided to give the pedestal base a new look. I used a very durable varnish, but I think it’s not so durable like the original coating (maybe the original was powder coated….). Future will show if I used the right varnish for this project. The result is better than I thought. The vise looks quite elegant with this white color. A total change of the appearance. Hopefully the new flies will be as elegant as the vise…
Here we go again! After moving to a new server, it’s time for a new step by step tutorial. This Caddis Larva is a very nice imitation of the original and it’s still quite easy to tie. So, it’s not a drama, when you lose it on the river bottom.
You have to fish this larva deep, that’s why there is a lot of weight in it. It still got a slim body, so it sinks fast to the ground. You will find Caddis in almost every river and it’s an important part of the fish’s menu.The coloration with the brown line on the abdomen is not a must. I just did it to show you what for possibilities you have with ordinary marker pens. It’s tied on a # 10 hook, which sounds pretty big, but the body length is close to the original, just try to keep a slim, natural looking body. Ok, let’s start!
- Hook: Demmon Competition G601 BL Fly Hook # 10
- Weight: Lead-Foil
- Ribbing: Mono 0,10mm
- Back: Stretch Flex Clear
- Abdomen: Sow Scud Dubbing Beige
- Thorax: Siman Peacock Dubbing Brown
- Thread: G.S.P. 50 D
- Coloration: Edding 3000 Marker Pens
Wind the lead foil in multiple layers around the hook.
Take a CDC feather and cut out the feather steam on the top and tie the feather in like shown on the pictures to create the little tail.
Take the stretch flex and tie it in at the back of the fly. Do the same with the mono for ribbing.
Dub the abdomen on 3/4 of the hook shank with a nice tapering.
Split the thread with your dubbing needle, put the peacock dubbing in the gap, rotate your bobbin to spin the dubbing and wind it around the hook to create the thorax and the legs in on step. Leave a little bit space for the head next to the hook eye.
Fold the stretch flex to the front and catch it with your tying thread next to the hook eye. Fold it back, catch it again with your thread and cut away the excess. That’s the easiest way to form a nice head.
Take the mono and ribb the abdomen in small segments and the thorax in two bigger segments. Catch the ribbing with your tying thread and cut it off. Do two whip finish, cut the tying thread and the tying is done.
With the marker pens, you can give the larva the coloration of your liking or the spicific colors of the originals in your home waters. Put a drop of varnish on the head and the fly is finished, ready to be presented to the fish of your dreams!
I tied some flash tubes for pikes in the past. They looked good, but nowadays there are special plastic tubes for pike with a really big diameter available, which makes it easier to get the wire leader through it. So I rebuild most of my tubeflies and used their materials to tie new ones, mostley the eyes, flash and hackles.
This is the result. I’m quite satisfied how Frankenstein looks now.
Ants are everywhere, especially in the summer, when the winged ants are flying around. Fish love to eat them, so it’s logical to have some ants in your fly box. This is an easy to tie pattern and with a little bit floatant, it swims very well. I tied here a version with some foam as underbody, coated with uv resin. It’s for the faster flowing water. I tie another version with the two segments completly made with uv resin without any foam. The secound version sits deeper in the surface film, which looks more natural in slow water, where the fish got more time to take a closer look. The shape of the hook is not so important, as long as the hook gap is big enough.
- Hook: Dry fly hook # 12-16
- Body: Foam coated wit Bug Bond UV Resin and colored with a black Marker Pen
- Hackle: Whiting black
- Wings: Flash Dubbing
Tie in the foam and fold it to the front and tie it down.
Do the same for the front segment and color it with a marker pen.
Take some Bug Bond Original and cover both segments with the resin and harden it with your BB torch.
Take some strands of flash dubbing and tie it in just before the first segment. It should be tied in V-shaped, so it looks like wings.
Tie in a black hackle and wind it in three turns to the front and catch it with your thread and do a whip finish.
The result. A nice little ant fly ready for the fish.
After tying some streamers, I thought I need a break and should tie some smaller stuff. This is a fully dressed parachute dry fly size 22 with a quill body secured with Bug Bond Lite. For the tail I used Coq de Leon and the hackle is grizzly from Whitung. The wing post is made with Tiemco Aero Dry Wing.
I wanted to tie a new streamer pattern and it should have a great movement in the water. So I united 3 importend characteristics:
- movement because of the articulation
- movement because of the material
- movement because of the weight
So I tied an articulated fly with ostrich and zonker strips and put on a Fish Skull Baitfish Head. These aluminum heads are weighing about 0,45 g. Enough weight to let the OZO Streamer jig, light enough to cast it easily.
The ostrich and the zonker stripes are moving fantastic. Every little piece of the fly is moving and jigging like it is something real.
There are two Gamakatsu F 314 #6 hooks in this fly. The front hook is normal, the tail hook is pointing upwards. If you don’t like to fish tandem hooks, or it is not allowed in the water you fish…no problem! Just cut off the first hook with a pair of pincers and your are ready to go.
Three DANCING SQUIDS I finished last night in three different colors:
white/pearl | white/uv-sand | white/uv-pink
The idea behind this fly was to create a squid pattern, for fishing in the Baltic Sea for sea trouts. I wanted a squid pattern with a great movement in the water and it must be easy to cast. There are a lot of squid patterns around, but we fish for sea trout mostly with 6 and 7weights and casting long distances, so the less material the better. The DANCING SQUID moves great because of the sili legs, the ostrich and the articulation. The mantle is made from arctic fox and laser dub and got a nice translucency. They are weighted and tied on a Gamakatsu F 314 #4.
Watch out sea trouts, the DANCING SQUID is coming!
Here’s the third part of “Fly Tier’s Little Helper”. I will show you things, which I’ve used since some years and which helped me tying my flies or organize my tying place.
The flea comp is a very important tool on my tying desk and I use it a lot. I often see, that many people doesn’t prepare their tying material before they tie it in. The result is a fly which looks… let’s say crumpled. Almost every hair, natural or synthetic should be combed.
It’s for example also very usefull to comb out the under wool of deer hair.
Even for fast smaller dubbing mixes I use the flea comb. You can see it here in this video:
In my pike streamer box is also a flea comb. Sometimes pike flies made with natural hair become felted after fishing and the attack of some fish. Let them dry and then use your flea comb. After using it, the flies will look almost like new.
You can get a flea comb in every pet shop for usually something around 5,- Euro. A great tool on your tying desk, which you will love after a short while.
Everyone is talking about Squids in the Baltic Sea right now. Why? You can read it here on Globalflyfisher
It’s a nice and interesting written articel by Martin Joergensen. Martin is from Denmark and he is close to the sources, so why should I write it again? Thx Martin!
So, I don’t got any squid patterns in my fly box for sea trouts. That’s why I was testing a little bit on my tying place. These are the first two patterns.
First try, unweighted
The second try is weighted in the front and I put the eye on the second part and just the mantle on the main hook.
Rune Westphal designed a nice shrimp pattern. It’s like a Perfect Leo Shrimp from Kern Lund with an translucent rear body.
This is my first attempt with this pattern. I tied the front and the mouth part a bit different with CDC and Arctic Fox. It’s not perfect, but for the first try, I’m quite satisfied.
Here, you can see the tying video of Rune:
I’m not a wet fly guy. If I remember right, I fished wet flies less than 10 times in more than 20 years of fly fishing. I don’t know why, but it was not “my style”. I prefered more natural looking patterns like CDC dries, nymphs and emerger. I know, that wet flies are catching a lot of fish and some also imitate insects like stillborns or drowning duns, but…. I just don’t like to fish them. That’s also the reason, why I don’t have much experience in tying wet flies. I tied less than 12 classical wet flies in my life.
This year I’ll promised myself to give them more often a chance. That means, that I have also to learn to tie them. Most important, I have to know the materials, especially the feathers for the wings and how they react, when you tie them in.
“Struppi” is one of the first wet flies. It’s kind a freestyle march brown. It’s not a “pretty” fly, but looks very fishy. I mixed a little bit of Ice Dub into the Hare’s Ear Dubbing and so there are some light reflexes in the body. I ribbed it with mono and the tail and the front hackle is made from partridge. For the wing, I’ve used mottled turkey. As hook I choosed a Kamasan B 405 # 12.
That is a simple weighted Caddis Larva. Not too many materials, just a few tying steps and no expensive materials. Just a good fishing fly.
- Hook: Gamakatsu F22 #10
- Thread: Uni 8/0 Black
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Tail: Natural CDC
- Ribbing: Mono
- Back: Stretch Flex Clear
- Dubbing: Abdomen Hare’s Ear mixed with Ice Dub, Thorax Peacock Dubbing Brown
- Coloration: Marker Pens
Used some quiet hours for some tying of nymphs for my fishing in the next year.
- Maruto C47 BL #14
- Small tungsten beads in copper and black nickel
- Coq de Leon for the tails
- Copper wire and mono for the ribbing
- Pheasant for the abdomen
- Peacock dubbing brown for the thorax
- Pheasant for the wing case
- Partridge for the legs
- Bug Bond Lite to secure the wing case and the thread
Four olive sculpins # 6 weighted with a tungsten bead in the front and again is the head secured with Bug Bond Lite.
Not many materials are used for this sculpin pattern:
- Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 6
- Weight: Black Tungsten Bead
- Ribbing: Mono:
- Dubbing: Olive-Brown with some Ice Dubbung
- Zonker: Black Barred Olive
- Deer Hair: Olive/Black/Brown
- Eyes: 3-D Eyes
- Resin: Bug Bond Lite
Little sculpins #6 weighted with a tungsten head in the front. The deer hair head is secured with Bug Bond Lite to make it indestructible. I always liked this pattern und and I will always do, because I caught some really nice trouts with it. No matter, if you fish them upstream, in the swing or stripping them in, trouts love ‘em.
It takes a bit to cut the head and it’s always a mess on your tying table, but it’s worth it. At least for me it is.
Good things are often very simple. Like these small nymphs tied on a short shank hook. The body length without the bead is 5mm. Even this are small nymphs, the hook gap is pretty big, so the hooking quality is still good. You can fish the nymphs very deep and you don’t have to be afraid of loosing them, because if you do so, you can tie some new ones in a short time.
Three Zonker Streamer # 6. A hook, small Fish Skull, mono for ribbing, dubbing, zonker, some marabou and thread. You don’t need more for a good streamer with awesome movement in the water. You can fish it down and dirty where the big fish are and you don’t have to be afraid to loose your precious streamer, because you can tie some new – easy like 1-2-3….almost
Sparkle Mayfly. Wings are two colors of CDC (natural and white from Trout Line) with a few strands of very thin flash. There’s a little sparkle in the wings. It’s hard to show that on the picture, in reality, it’s looks very posh! Thorax is normal dubbing, wingcase is made from pheasant and the body is made with Polish Quills, secured with Bug Bond. Tails are synthetic Mayfly Tails. For the hook I’ve used a D23BL # 14 from Trout Line.