I fish the LaSku Streamer since some years now and it brought me some really nice fish. I’ve used it for perch, trout, asp, and chub. It’s very easy to tie, it’s durable and looks even better under water. The Fish Skull gives it a nice jigging effect and in stronger current some depth. From time to time, you should give it a brush to straighten the Laser Dub, so it looks great again. Maybe you’ll like it as much as I do. Have fun tying and trying!
New fly tying video of the superb „Burner“ is online on YouTube .I’ve already made a photo step by step on my blog long time ago, but when I was tying yesterday, I put on the camera. The result is quite ok, a bit shaky, but still good enough to show. I hope you like the video and THE BURNER as much as I do. It’s one of my favourite patterns of all flies I’ve created over the past years.
My buddy Alex from adh-fishing knows, that I like or maybe I should say love Polar Fibre for some of my flies (especially the Baltic Candy). When he called recently, he told me „…we got some new cool stuff, for example the Polar Fibre Streamer Brush, I’m pretty sure you will like it!“
Some days later I got it at my home. ADH did already a video how to use it for pike and big saltwater flies (click here to see the video).
When I saw it, I just thought „BAITFISH“!
I love baitfish patterns. That’s just what predatory fish love to eat. So I did a fast and easy to tie baitfish pattern using Polar Fibre Streamer Brush.
I made a little step by step of my first attempt. Yes, that what you see on the pictures was really the very first time I’ve tied with the Streamer Brush. It’s very easy and you don’t need much of it. You can get it in different colors and also in two tone combinations. A little bit of UV-Flash is also already in the brush, so you don’t need extra flash.
I will do a closer look at it soon, but for now, let’s start with the step by step!
- Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 #2
- Body: Ice Dub UV White
- RIbbing: Mono
- Body: H2O Polar Fibre Streamer Brush grizzly chartreuse/green
- Head: Senyos Laser Dub (different colors)
- Eyes: 6mm 3D-Eyes fluo red
- UV Resin: Bug Bond Lite
- Thread: Veevus 50D white
Do a thread base and tie in the mono for the ribbing.
Dub a body 2/3 of the hook shank and rib it with the mono. Then give it a good brush with you velcro.
Take the Polar Fibre Streamer Brush and cut of a two colored segment like shown and tie it in.
Grab the wire with a hackle plier and wind the fibres back.
Wind the Streamer Brush around the shank and comb it backwards. Catch the end with your thread and secure it. Use a drop of super glue or varnish to make it super strong.
View from above. A nice baitfish like drop shape.
Add clumps of Laser Dub to build up the head. You don’t need much. You should also comb the Laser Dub to align the fibres.
Put the eyes on the head by using super glue gel and let some drops of Bug Bond Lite soak up into the front of the head to make it strong.
If you like, you can color the fly with permanent marker pens. That’s it! Easy as 1-2-3. ;-)
Finn Raccoon is an awesome material for big pike flies. The long, soft hair moves really well in the water. It’s also very durable. If you don’t use too much of the leather it’s also not so difficult to cast, because the hair will not soak as much as water as rabbit fur for example does. You can cast it with your 8weight and a pike taper line with no problems.
The color combination ist just an example. To be totally honest, for this fly, I used the materials from another old fly with a damaged hook. Recycling the fly tiers way! ;-)
The hook is a good topic! I got some samples from the danish company AHREX hooks. They got my attention, because they brought some really nice hooks for streamer and especially for sea trout fishing on the market. Now, they also got a Predator line with big sized hooks for predators like pike. The hook I’ve used is really nice. A white gap, a not too heavy wire and a small fine barb. You can also get it as a barbless version. That’s a pretty cool thing!
For this SBS, I tied the fly with a head of Senyos Laser Dub to give it more volume. It pushes a lot more water. On the other hand, it’s a bit harder to cast. There’s another way to tie it. Just some eyes with uv resin between them to secure everything like shown on the first picture with the black collar.
- Hook: AHREX PR 350 Light Predator # 4/0
- Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash orange
- Ribbing: Mono 0,50 mm
- Main Body: Finn Racoon Zonker orange
- Body: Kaktus Chenille and Polar Chenille twisted
- Front Collar: Finn Racoon white
- Head: Senyos Laser Dub white mixed with orange
- Eyes: 3D Eyes orange
- Thread: Veevus GSP 100 D white
- Bug Bond UV Resin, if you don’t want to tie it with a big head
Put a drop of super glue along the hook shank and do a spiral wrap back and forth, back and forth, back and…. to create a solid basement for the other materials.
Tie in some mono for the ribbing. I’ve used 0,50 mm.
As „tail flash“, tie in some krinkle mirror flash in different lengths.
For the body, I’ve used one strand of orange cactus chenille and two strands of white polar chenille.
Twist the strands like shown and wind it around the hook shank and catch it with your tying thread.
Take the Finn Raccoon strip and tie it in at the front.
With the mono, rib the fur strip from the back to the front with very high tension, so it won’t be destroyed by the pikes teeth.
Put some white Finn Raccoon in a material clamp or like I prefer in the Vosseler Clip Tool. Cut off the leather strip.
Make a thread loop and put some wax on it. Then put the Finn Raccoon hair into the loop.
Twist the loop with your dubbing twister. Don’t do it too fast and clear the hair from tangling from time to time with your dubbing needle. Wind it around the hook shank and stroke the hair back after every single turn.
Tie in some Senyos Laser Dub in the color of your liking. How you work with the Laser Dub is shown in several step by step tutorials in this blog. Just type „Senyos Laser Dub“ in the search field.
The finished Finn Raccoon Streamer for pike. Easy to tie, very durable and awesome in the water. I wish you a lot of fun tying and fishing it!
I made a new little video about an easy to tie pattern of a Stickleback.
[vimeo width=“600″ height=“500″]https://vimeo.com/108999238[/vimeo]
This is a very durable and effective streamer pattern to imitate a small fish. It’s absolute versatile. Seatrout, trout, perch, asp, zander, … every fish which hunts for smaller fish is a good target for THE BURNER.
It looks good when dry, but it looks amazing when wet.
This is really a pattern which you should try.
- Hook: Tiemco 811 S #4
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Ribbing: 0,25mm Mono
- Body: UV Ice Dub Olive Brown
- Back: Zonker Stripe
- Front: Different colors of Senyo’s Laser Dub
- Head: 3 D Eyes and Bug Bond Lite to secure it
Wind on the lead wire and attach the mono for the ribbing
Split the thread and put the Ice Dub between it. Spin the thread and brush the dubbing with your velcro, than wind the dubbing from the back to the front. Brush the body again with your velcro.
Tie in a piece of a zonker stripe and rib it with the mono. Catch the mono at the front with your thread.
Tie in some bunches of Senyo’s Laser Dub in the colors of your liking. The belly should always be brighter than the back. Finish with a whio finish behind the hook eye and comb the fibres back.
Take your super glue and put two 3D eyes on each side. Then take Bug Bond Lite UV Resin and put a drop between the eyes on the top and on the underside. The thin resin soaks into the head. Use your Bug Bond torch to harden the resin. If you like, you can do some gills behind the eyes with a thin marker pen.
That’s it! A sweet baitfish pattern with the great movement of the zonker stripe and the cool translucent look of the laser dub.
Tight lines and some good time at the water!
This is a really quick step by step of a good baitfish pattern. Ok, to be honest, I just tied this fly for my fishing and took a quick shot from time to time. ;-)
This baitfish looks ok when dry, but when it’s wet! Holy cow! It looks amazing! The Senyo Laser Dubbing gets semi-tranparent and there is a cool flash in the fly, too. The tail made out of arctic fox just moves fantastic in the water. One important fact is, that you have to stiffen the first 5 mm of the tail with Bug Bond Lite. So, the tail doesn’t tangle around the hook bend during the cast. Most flies with a really soft tail material behave like that and it is really a pain in the ass, when you strip your fly in and you see almost every cast, that it was tangled. When you put some weight in the front like lead wire or a tungsten bead, you get a nice jigging effect. Just give this fly a try. It’s durable, it’s tied very fast and it catches fish.
The Bad Ass Bass Banger – A streamer perfect for bass/perch and zander/walleye. It has a great action under water, because of the excellent moving tail, the jigging and the massiv front collar, which pushes a lot of water. It’s easy and fast to tie, durable and just a great fishing fly. The jigging can be controled by the weight of the brass dumbells.
- Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
- Thread: Dyneema white and UTC fluo green
- Dubbing: Ice Dubbing Chartreuse
- Tail/Body: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
- Front Collar: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
- Head: Brass Dumbells with Eyes, Senyo’s Laser Dub fluo chartreuse + green/ chartruese, Bug Bond
- Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
Put the hook in the vise, wind a good basement of thread and tie in the dumbell eyes. Use super glue during the tying, so the dumbells won’t slip around the hook shank during fishing.
Splitt the thread or make a dubbing loop, but the ice dubbing in the gap and twist it, then brush ist with your velcro-brush and wind it from the back to the front behind the dumbells. Then brush the dubbing body again.
Jab the hook through the leather of the rabbit stripe and tie the stripe right behind the dumbells down. Secure the punctured stripe with a little drop of super glue.
Tie in the krinkle mirror flash an each side. I prefer to use two or more different colors of flash. Split the thread again and put some rabbit stripe in a material clamp and cut away the leather. Put the rabbit stripe hair into the thread gap and twist the thread, then wind it around the hook next to the dumbells.
Change the thread and tie in the laser dub like shown on the pictures above on top and on the underside. The lighter color always belong to the underside.
Finish with a nice massive thread-head, which pushes the senyo back.
Push the senyo dubbing on the underside to the back and apply the Bug Bond on the underside and on the head.
Ready to fish! Wish you a lot of fun with the Bad Ass Bass Banger!
I still „play“ with a kind of LEGO today. Well, it’s more like a fly tying LEGO. I’m talking about the tube fly system from Morten Bundgaard, owner and chief creative of Pro Sportfisher. Like Lego, everything fits together perfectly. It’s just so fun to be creative and to find out, how much is possible.
For this step by step of the Pro Tube Baitfish, I used several products of Pro Sportfisher, especially the new Pro Raw Weights made out of tungsten and the brand new Pro Softheads, which are awesome. Perfect alternative to epoxy and uv resin for cool heads.
- Pro Flexitube clear
- Pro Soft Sonic Disc clear
- Pro Raw Weight
- Pro Softhead
- STS-Dubbing Fluo Flame
- Ice Dub Pearl
- Arctic Fox White
- Pro Angelhair HD Pearl Green
- Senyo’s Laser Dub White and Olive
- 3D Eyes
Put the Pro Flexitube on the Pro Tubefly-Needle and do some turns with the thread. Split the thread and put some STS-Dubbing ind the gap and spin the bobbin. After twisting, give the dubbing a good brush with your velcro and wind it around.
Put a little bit of super glue on the thread and do some turns. Cut of the thread and put a clear Pro Soft Sonic Disc on the tube. In front of the disc, attach the thread to the tube again.
Take a bunch of fox and tie it in directly in front of the disc. Take some strands of Pro Angelhair HD and tie them in, too. At last, take another bunch of fox, slightly longer than the first bunch, spread it a little bit and tie it on top.
Split the thread again, put some ice dub pearl into the gap, spin the bobbin and brush the twisted dubbing. Wind the dubbing around, brush it again and put the Pro Raw Weight in front of the dubbing. This will give the tube a nice balance with a little bit jigging.
Take the white Laser Dub and tie it underneath the tube, then so the same with the olive Laser Dub on top. If you want, you can give the dubbing on top some dots or stripes by using a permanent marker.
Make a short whip finish and cut off the thread. Put the Pro Softhead on the tube and border the tip of the tube with your lighter. Just do a little drop of super glue into the recess and glue in some 3D-eyes of your liking. That’s it, you got a great baitfish tube! Just attach a single hook like the Owner Mosquito for example and you are ready to go!