Caddis Larva Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 22/03/2015 von Holger Lachmann

Here we go again! After moving to a new server, it’s time for a new step by step tutorial. This Caddis Larva is a very nice imitation of the original and it’s still quite easy to tie. So, it’s not a drama, when you lose it on the river bottom.

You have to fish this larva deep, that’s why there is a lot of weight in it. It still got a slim body, so it sinks fast to the ground. You will find Caddis in almost every river and it’s an important part of the fish’s menu.The coloration with the brown line on the abdomen is not a must. I just did it to show you what for possibilities you have with ordinary marker pens. It’s tied on a # 10 hook, which sounds pretty big, but the body length is close to the original, just try to keep a slim, natural looking body. Ok, let’s start!

Materials:

Hook: Demmon Competition G601 BL Fly Hook # 10
Weight: Lead-Foil
Ribbing: Mono 0,10mm
Back: Stretch Flex Clear
Abdomen: Sow Scud Dubbing Beige
Thorax: Siman Peacock Dubbing Brown
Thread: G.S.P. 50 D
Coloration: Edding 3000 Marker Pens

Wind the lead foil in multiple layers around the hook.

Take a CDC feather and cut out the feather steam on the top and tie the feather in like shown on the pictures to create the little tail.

Take the stretch flex and tie it in at the back of the fly. Do the same with the mono for ribbing.

Dub the abdomen on 3/4 of the hook shank with a nice tapering.

Split the thread with your dubbing needle, put the peacock dubbing in the gap, rotate your bobbin to spin the dubbing and wind it around the hook to create the thorax and the legs in on step. Leave a little bit space for the head next to the hook eye.

Fold the stretch flex to the front and catch it with your tying thread next to the hook eye. Fold it back, catch it again with your thread and cut away the excess. That’s the easiest way to form a nice head.

Take the mono and ribb the abdomen in small segments and the thorax in two bigger segments. Catch the ribbing with your tying thread and cut it off. Do two whip finish, cut the tying thread and the tying is done.

With the marker pens, you can give the larva the coloration of your liking or the spicific colors of the originals in your home waters. Put a drop of varnish on the head and the fly is finished, ready to be presented to the fish of your dreams! :-)

Tight lines!

Easy Nymph Step By Step Without Words

Veröffentlicht am 18/12/2014 von Holger Lachmann

Caddis Pupa with tungsten head – step by step

Veröffentlicht am 21/08/2014 von Holger Lachmann

This is a good all around nymph to imitate caddis pupa. The vague looking nymph seems eatable to the fish. It’s a nice combination of a semi-transparent body and the mix of cdc, soft fibres and the dubbing mix of natural hare’s ear and ice dub. Not to flashy. Just that kind of nymph I personally like to fish.

The tying steps are self-explanatory, I guess. So here are just the materials.

If you got questions, just feel free to ask.

Hook: Tiemco 2488 #12
Weight: Tungsten bead
Body: greenish-yellow strands of a present bag, Polish Quill olive, Bug Bond Lite
Wing: CDC Puff from Troutline
Legs: Fibres of a Hen Hackle
Thorax: Dubbing Mix Hare’s Ear and Ice Dub, secured with Bug Bond Lite

Sedge Pupa Step By Step Tutorial

Veröffentlicht am 23/02/2014 von Holger Lachmann

I posted this pattern some weeks ago on my blog and on Facebook and I was asked, if I could do a step by step tutorial about it. So, here it is. I hope you like it as much as I do.

Materials:

Hook: Maruto C47 BL # 12
Weight: Tungsten Bead Black Nickel
Thread: Dyneema
Body: Thread-Underbody, olive marker pen, Flashabou, Polish Quills green
Resin: Bug Bond Lite
Dubbing: SLF light olive and cinnamon
Wings: Flashabou Mirage colored with a brown marker pen
Wing Case: Pheasant
Legs: Partridge

Put the hook with the tungsten bead in the vise.

Form the unterbody with your thread and tie in the Flashabou and Polish Quill.

Color the underbody with an olive marker pen and wind the Flashabou and then the Polish Quill around the body and secure it with your tying thread.

Put some Bug Bond Lite on the body and cure the resin with your Bug Bond torch. Then, tie in some strands from a pheasant tail feather as shown.

Dub some SLF light olive on the fly and tie in the brown colored Flashabou Mirage. Cut the Mirage like shown on the photo.

Dub the rest with SLF in cinnamon till you reach the tungsten bead.

Cut a „V“ out of a partridge feather and tie in the fibres of the partridge as legs. Then fold the pheasant strands to the front to create the wing case and catch it with your tying thread. Put a drop of Bug Bond Lite on the wing case incl. the thread with which you catch the pheasant. Cure the Bug Bond Lite with your Bug Bond torch and cut the thread. You’re done! The Bug Bond Lite makes it super strong! You don’t need to do whip finish!

That’s it! Now grab your fly rod and catch some nice trout or grayling or whatever you like to catch with nymphs and pupas!

tight lines!

Holger

Freshwater Shrimp with the new Gammarus Foil by Pro Sportfisher – Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 10/08/2013 von Holger Lachmann

This is a really natural looking freshwater shrimp. Easy to tie and very durable. It’s tied with the new multi colored Gammarus Shrimp Back from Pro Sportfisher and Bug Bond.

You can get the Gammarus Shrimp Backs in different colors and sizes. Here, I used the brown color in small.

It was never easier to tie a super realistic pattern in such a short time. I believe, that it’ll catch fish from Finnland to Italy!

Materials:

Hook: Tiemco 2487 # 12
Weight: Lead Foil
Ribbing: Mono 0,14
Back: Pro Sportfisher Gammarus brown # small and Bug Bond UV Resin
Dubbing: SLF Squirrel Spikey Dubbing mixed with Hends Spectra Dubbing
Tail: CDC Feather
Thread: Dyneema

Take the hook, push down the barb and put it in your vise. Cut a stripe of lead out of the lead foil and create a nice lead body.

Take a CDC feather and cut off a „V“ from the tip. Tie the feather in as shown.

Take a shrimp back from the sheet and tie it in at the end. Tie also in the mono for the ribbing.

I used for this Gammarus a mix made out of Squirrel Dubbing and Spectra Dubbing. A natural color with a little bit of flash. Dub a not to slim body.

Fold the Gammarus foil to the front and catch it with you tying thread. Then, rib the body with the mono. Catch the mono, cut it off and finish the tying with a whip finish.

Now, take your Bug Bond and coat the back of the shrimp and cure it with the Bug Bond torch.

Pick out some beards and fibres with your dubbing needle to imitate the legs.

The finished shrimp, ready to fish.

The shrimp when wet. I don’t think, that a fish can resist.

Tight lines

Holger

Mayfly Flex Stretch Nymph – Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 22/04/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Here’s the step by step tutorial for a mayfly nymph pattern, to imitate the BWO for example. This pattern is durable and looks quite like the natural, when drifting through the river. Don’t use too much material when tying these kind of nymphs. You should always keep the slim original in your mind.

This pattern is another example, how usefull uv-resin could be, when tying even small flies for trout and graylig. For this fly I used Clear Cure Goo Hydro, which is highly fluid like water. It’s perfect for smaller patterns and is soacked up by dubbing and feathers, what makes the flies really durable.

Materials:

Hook: Daiichi D 1270 # 14
Weight: Flat Lead
Tail: Pheasant Tail Fibres
Abdomen: Flex Stretch Olive
Wing Case: Pheasant Tail Fibres & Clear Cure Goo Hydro
Thorax: Oliver Edwards Masterclass Dubbing & Clear Cure Goo Hydro
Legs: Partridge

Put the hook into the vise and wind the flat lead on the hook shank. Do a second layer of lead on the front part like shown on the foto.

Tie in three pheasant tail fibres to imitate the tail of the mayfly.

Tie in a small piece od stretch flex and wind it aroung the hook shank.

Cut a piece out of a pheasant tail feather and tie it in for the wing case.

Take a partridge feather and cut a little piece out of the tip. Then tie the partridge feather in with the tip first.

Dub the thorax, then fold the partridge to the front and catch it with your thread next to the hook eye.

Put a little drop of Clear Cure Goo Hydro on the stem of the partridge feather to join the dubbing with the feather. Cure the CCG Hydro with the uv torch. The hackle stem and the dubbing are joined together now. Nothing will ever slip and the legs will stay as shown on the photo.

Fold the pheasant to the front and catch it with your tying thread. Put a little drop of Clear Cure Goo Hydro on the wing case and cure it with the uv torch.

The wing case is now very durable after curing the CCG Hydro. If you want a shiny wing case, that’s what I prefer, put a second drop of CCG Hydro on the wing case and cure it. Now, the mayfly nymph is ready for fishing.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann