I fish the LaSku Streamer since some years now and it brought me some really nice fish. I’ve used it for perch, trout, asp, and chub. It’s very easy to tie, it’s durable and looks even better under water. The Fish Skull gives it a nice jigging effect and in stronger current some depth. From time to time, you should give it a brush to straighten the Laser Dub, so it looks great again. Maybe you’ll like it as much as I do. Have fun tying and trying!
New fly tying video of the superb „Burner“ is online on YouTube .I’ve already made a photo step by step on my blog long time ago, but when I was tying yesterday, I put on the camera. The result is quite ok, a bit shaky, but still good enough to show. I hope you like the video and THE BURNER as much as I do. It’s one of my favourite patterns of all flies I’ve created over the past years.
I’ve made a new tying video about a modified 2 hook version og my Dancing Squid.
I hope you’ll like it! It’s something different than usual… ;-)
Materials:
I don’t know, when I’ve tied a small fly for the last time…must be months ago… the hands are a bit stiff, but I guess after some flies, it will be better…hopefully. :-)
This emerger was tied on a Daiichi 1130 # 14. Some Bug Bond Lite on a Polish Quill for the abdomen, Petitjean CDC and dubbing for the thorax and some Partridge as legs.
A little picture story about the change of the cork grip on a Vision Mag 3/4 10ft. I cut away the hook keeper and lenghten the grip some centimeters. Originally, the rod had a kind of mini full wells. Didn’t liked it at all and I changed the form with sanding paper by hand after a short while. The result was better, but far away from good. So, one evening I decided to remove the cork and then I started to rebuild the grip with good quality cork discs.
Original grip above. The pictures below are after the first shaping by hand.
Beaver attack at the grip ;-)
Half of the cork is cut away.
Most of the cork is gone
new cork discs
tight fitting
The result with a new winding check and a bit of lime green metallic thread.
My rod building project is now finished.
Blank: Sage One 1090-4
Reel Seat: REC Saltwater Reel Seat RSLL titan
Grip: 6mm Cork Discs
Fighting Butt: Rubber Cork and 6mm Cork Discs
Winding Check: Titan
Thread: Fuji Black A
Thread Inlays: Pro Wrap Metallic Lime
Stripping Guides: Fuji Concept SiC TKWSG Titanium 20mm & 16mm
Snake Guides: Recoil
Tip Top: Hardchrome
Finish: CMW
My buddy Alex from adh-fishing knows, that I like or maybe I should say love Polar Fibre for some of my flies (especially the Baltic Candy). When he called recently, he told me „…we got some new cool stuff, for example the Polar Fibre Streamer Brush, I’m pretty sure you will like it!“
Some days later I got it at my home. ADH did already a video how to use it for pike and big saltwater flies (click here to see the video).
When I saw it, I just thought „BAITFISH“!
I love baitfish patterns. That’s just what predatory fish love to eat. So I did a fast and easy to tie baitfish pattern using Polar Fibre Streamer Brush.
I made a little step by step of my first attempt. Yes, that what you see on the pictures was really the very first time I’ve tied with the Streamer Brush. It’s very easy and you don’t need much of it. You can get it in different colors and also in two tone combinations. A little bit of UV-Flash is also already in the brush, so you don’t need extra flash.
I will do a closer look at it soon, but for now, let’s start with the step by step!
Materials:
Do a thread base and tie in the mono for the ribbing.
Dub a body 2/3 of the hook shank and rib it with the mono. Then give it a good brush with you velcro.
Take the Polar Fibre Streamer Brush and cut of a two colored segment like shown and tie it in.
Grab the wire with a hackle plier and wind the fibres back.
Wind the Streamer Brush around the shank and comb it backwards. Catch the end with your thread and secure it. Use a drop of super glue or varnish to make it super strong.
View from above. A nice baitfish like drop shape.
Add clumps of Laser Dub to build up the head. You don’t need much. You should also comb the Laser Dub to align the fibres.
Put the eyes on the head by using super glue gel and let some drops of Bug Bond Lite soak up into the front of the head to make it strong.
If you like, you can color the fly with permanent marker pens. That’s it! Easy as 1-2-3. ;-)
When it’s getting colder, I like to fish for perch with popper-sytyle flies. I don’t fish them the normal way on the surface as a topwater fly. I use a super fast sinking line and attach just a short piece of mono or fc with a length between 100-50 cm to the front loop as a leader/tippet. The popper will float above the sinking line. The height it floats depends on the length of the tippet and on the current. The current will push the popper down.
You should cast the line out and give it time to sink to the bottom. When you strip the line in, the popper swims towards the bottom. If you do a pause, the popper will rise towards the surface again. How often you strip and pause depends on the water you fish and the situation.
Below is a very simple scheme of retrieving the popper.
A very good fly even in murky water, because it makes a lot of shock waves. It also works great, when you have an uneven bottom and the risk to loose a normal streamer is very high.
Finn Raccoon is an awesome material for big pike flies. The long, soft hair moves really well in the water. It’s also very durable. If you don’t use too much of the leather it’s also not so difficult to cast, because the hair will not soak as much as water as rabbit fur for example does. You can cast it with your 8weight and a pike taper line with no problems.
The color combination ist just an example. To be totally honest, for this fly, I used the materials from another old fly with a damaged hook. Recycling the fly tiers way! ;-)
The hook is a good topic! I got some samples from the danish company AHREX hooks. They got my attention, because they brought some really nice hooks for streamer and especially for sea trout fishing on the market. Now, they also got a Predator line with big sized hooks for predators like pike. The hook I’ve used is really nice. A white gap, a not too heavy wire and a small fine barb. You can also get it as a barbless version. That’s a pretty cool thing!
For this SBS, I tied the fly with a head of Senyos Laser Dub to give it more volume. It pushes a lot more water. On the other hand, it’s a bit harder to cast. There’s another way to tie it. Just some eyes with uv resin between them to secure everything like shown on the first picture with the black collar.
Put a drop of super glue along the hook shank and do a spiral wrap back and forth, back and forth, back and…. to create a solid basement for the other materials.
Tie in some mono for the ribbing. I’ve used 0,50 mm.
As „tail flash“, tie in some krinkle mirror flash in different lengths.
For the body, I’ve used one strand of orange cactus chenille and two strands of white polar chenille.
Twist the strands like shown and wind it around the hook shank and catch it with your tying thread.
Take the Finn Raccoon strip and tie it in at the front.
With the mono, rib the fur strip from the back to the front with very high tension, so it won’t be destroyed by the pikes teeth.
Put some white Finn Raccoon in a material clamp or like I prefer in the Vosseler Clip Tool. Cut off the leather strip.
Make a thread loop and put some wax on it. Then put the Finn Raccoon hair into the loop.
Twist the loop with your dubbing twister. Don’t do it too fast and clear the hair from tangling from time to time with your dubbing needle. Wind it around the hook shank and stroke the hair back after every single turn.
Tie in some Senyos Laser Dub in the color of your liking. How you work with the Laser Dub is shown in several step by step tutorials in this blog. Just type „Senyos Laser Dub“ in the search field.
The finished Finn Raccoon Streamer for pike. Easy to tie, very durable and awesome in the water. I wish you a lot of fun tying and fishing it!
