Bad Ass Bass Banger – Step By Step

The Bad Ass Bass Banger – A streamer perfect for bass/perch and zander/walleye. It has a great action under water, because of the excellent moving tail, the jigging and the massiv front collar, which pushes a lot of water. It’s easy and fast to tie, durable and just a great fishing fly. The jigging can be controled by the weight of the brass dumbells.

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
  • Thread: Dyneema white and UTC fluo green
  • Dubbing: Ice Dubbing Chartreuse
  • Tail/Body: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
  • Front Collar: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
  • Head: Brass Dumbells with Eyes, Senyo’s Laser Dub fluo chartreuse + green/ chartruese, Bug Bond
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash

 

Put the hook in the vise, wind a good basement of thread and tie in the dumbell eyes. Use super glue during the tying, so the dumbells won’t slip around the hook shank during fishing.

 

Splitt the thread or make a dubbing loop, but the ice dubbing in the gap and twist it, then brush ist with your velcro-brush and wind it from the back to the front behind the dumbells. Then brush the dubbing body again.

Jab the hook through the leather of the rabbit stripe and tie the stripe right behind the dumbells down. Secure the punctured stripe with a little drop of super glue.

 

Bad Ass Bass Banger (15) (Mittel)

Tie in the krinkle mirror flash an each side. I prefer to use two or more different colors of flash. Split the thread again and put some rabbit stripe in a material clamp and cut away the leather. Put the rabbit stripe hair into the thread gap and twist the thread, then wind it around the hook next to the dumbells.

 

Bad Ass Bass Banger (17) (Mittel)

Change the thread and tie in the laser dub like shown on the pictures above on top and on the underside. The lighter color always belong to the underside.

 

Finish with a nice massive thread-head, which pushes the senyo back.

 

Push the senyo dubbing on the underside to the back and apply the Bug Bond on the underside and on the head.

Ready to fish! Wish you a lot of fun with the Bad Ass Bass Banger!

tl

Holger Lachmann

New Zonker Muddler

This a kind of pimped Muddler Minnow. I use a piece of zonker stripe for the tail, some fancy dubbing mixed with flash dubbing, krinkle flash, a deer hair muddler head, funky eyes and and a heavy tungsten bead to get it down to the predators. One of my absolut favorite streamer pattern for trout and seatrout!

 

Missing Link

Missing Link – Everything comes together:

Rabbit Stripe, Articulated Shank, Krinkle Flash, Crazy Legs, Ostrich, SLF+Flash-Dubbing, Arctic Fox, Deerhair-Head and nice Eyes.

….big is beautiful…

After tying some flies for grayling in size 18 & 20 I decided to tie two pike flies on Partridge Predator hooks size 4/0 as an equalization….one very colorful, the other one in muted colors….

Tied mainly with rabbit stripes and arctic fox.

 

Small Zonker-Baitfish

 

I like….no, I love streamers, which are easy to tie, but they always have to play nicely in the water. Zonker stripes are one of my favorite materials since a long time. It’s durable, easy to tie in and most important, it moves in the water like hell.

This little fellow is only about 5 cm long (less than 2 inches). The front part with dubbing and the eyes is coated with uv-resin, in this case I used Clear Cure Goo (CCG) which works really well. First I used CCG Hydro, which is fluid like water, to fix everything, than CCG Tack Free for the final coating.

It’s an all around baitfish pattern, which can be used for any type of predators. I tie it on a saltwater hook and nip down the barb, when using in freshwater. So I use often the same fly first in spring for seatrout and later in the year for brown trout.

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 4
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: SLF Prism Dub in tan
  • Back and Tail: Zonker Stripe
  • Eyes and Head: 3 D Eyes, SLF Prism Dub and Clear Cure Goo

 

Wind the lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.

 

Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing.

 

Split the thread, put the SLF Prism Dub in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.

 

Wind the twisted dubbing around untill you reach the middle of the shank.

 

Tie an piece of zonker stripe.

 

Rib the Zonker with the mono and catch the mono with your thread.

 

Here you can see the nice profile of the zonker.

 

Dub the head in the same way like the body and brush it with your velcro brush.

 

Put some eyes on the head and and secure it with Clear Cure Goo Hydro. Then put a final coating of Clear Cure Goo Tack Free on the head.

 

No bubbles like with epoxy, just clear resin so you can see the hot twinkle of the Prism Dub.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann