All shrimps are tied differently. Only the color is always quite the same, Caramel.
Schlagwort-Archive: Saltwater
Caramel Shrimp Step By Step Video
This is the first time I made a video of the single steps to tie the fly. I hope you like it. The fly is a very good and looks even better in the water. Great pattern for Seatrout.
[vimeo width=“600″ height=“400″]http://vimeo.com/108574605[/vimeo]
Flatwing Tobis
I tied two of this flies 3 times. Tied it, cut it up, tied it, cut it up again, tied it a third time. I was just not satisfied with the result and I don’t put a „bad“ fly in my box, because I know that I won’t fish it and I won’t give it away as a present. I just throw it in the trash after some years. Maybe the fish doesn’t give a damn, but if you don’t have faith in your fly, you won’t fish it the right way.
UV Shrimps and Flatwing Tobis
Here is a spey shrimp tied with a little bit of uv materials. You can’t see them in normal light, jsut when you use your uv torch. Some say fish can’t see uv light, other say they have definitely more hook ups with flies tied with a bit of uv materials. I’ll let the fish decide… ;-)
Last but not least a Flatwing Tobis
Fly Tier’s Little Helper – Part 1 – Bug Bond Pro Light Mains Adapter
There are a lot of tools for the fly tier on the market. Some are good, some are useless, some are expensive but worth the money, some are cheap and still super usefull.
I used a lot of different tools and gimmicks in the last 20 years, and in this series I want to show things, which worked well for me and I’ll try to tell you why.
I begin with something very special, the Bug Bond Pro Light Mains Adapter.
When you look at my flies, you’ll see that I work a lot with uv resin. No matter if I tie dries and nymphs or streamer and flies for pike, seatrout, asp, …
Working with uv resin means, you have to use a uv torch with maximun battery power to harden the resin. I often saw people using a torch with low power, wondering, why the resin won’t cure like it should.
Bug Bond offers a nice solution for the power problem: An adapter for your pro torch to connect it with your power supply at home. You just have to screw the adapter into the torch and you have a super strong uv torch every time.
To connect the adapter with the torch, you have to screw off the switch at the end.
Maybe you’re asking yourself how to switch on the torch without the switch at the end? With the Kit comes a solid foot switch like you know them from sewing machines. Just put your foot on the pedal and the torch will do it’s job.
The torch is always hanging from on of my lamps on my tying desk ready for some action.
I f you like to use uv resin for your tying, then I can recommend you the Mains Adapter. It’s super nice to use, you got always maximum curing power and you don’t have to care about the batteries.
I use the Adapter now several months and I don’t want to miss it.
THE BURNER – A Step By Step Tutorial
This is a very durable and effective streamer pattern to imitate a small fish. It’s absolute versatile. Seatrout, trout, perch, asp, zander, … every fish which hunts for smaller fish is a good target for THE BURNER.
It looks good when dry, but it looks amazing when wet.
This is really a pattern which you should try.
Materials:
- Hook: Tiemco 811 S #4
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Ribbing: 0,25mm Mono
- Body: UV Ice Dub Olive Brown
- Back: Zonker Stripe
- Front: Different colors of Senyo’s Laser Dub
- Head: 3 D Eyes and Bug Bond Lite to secure it
Wind on the lead wire and attach the mono for the ribbing
Split the thread and put the Ice Dub between it. Spin the thread and brush the dubbing with your velcro, than wind the dubbing from the back to the front. Brush the body again with your velcro.
Tie in a piece of a zonker stripe and rib it with the mono. Catch the mono at the front with your thread.
Tie in some bunches of Senyo’s Laser Dub in the colors of your liking. The belly should always be brighter than the back. Finish with a whio finish behind the hook eye and comb the fibres back.
Take your super glue and put two 3D eyes on each side. Then take Bug Bond Lite UV Resin and put a drop between the eyes on the top and on the underside. The thin resin soaks into the head. Use your Bug Bond torch to harden the resin. If you like, you can do some gills behind the eyes with a thin marker pen.
That’s it! A sweet baitfish pattern with the great movement of the zonker stripe and the cool translucent look of the laser dub.
Tight lines and some good time at the water!
Baltic Candy
Brazilian Baitfish
and the worm hatch continues…
Worm for Seatrout
Tangloppen For Seatrout
The Tangloppen imitates Gammarus and Idotea Baltica. These little crustaceans are a very important source of food for seatrouts, even if they are quite small. There are times, seatrout just feed on these small snacks. Also the very big fish, which normally chasing fish like herring and sandeels. So, you always should have some of these little nibbles in your fly box, when you fish in the Baltic Sea. ;-)
I tied these Tangloppen on a Gamakatsu F 314 hook # 4. This hook got a very big gap and a short shank. The body length is around 2cm.
For the tail and the antennas, I used Spanflex. The body is made out of a dubbing mix. The carapace is made with Pro Sportfisher Gammarus Shell # large, ribbed with mono and coated with Bug Bond uv resin. I didn’t use any weight, so you can fish the Tangloppen very slow, like the natural model.
Spey = Shrimps
I just love spey hackles to tie shrimp patterns.
You can find the tutorial here https://theonefly.com/?p=535
Some Poor Man’s Pattegrisen
A very good seatrout pattern. It’s a little bit easier and cheaper then the original Pattegrisen by Claus Eriksen. I’ve made a step by step some time ago, have a look here https://theonefly.com/?p=535
Have fun! :-)
School of Laser Eels
Laser Eel – Step By Step
I love to fish and tie sandeel patterns for sea trout in the Baltic Sea (a friend also caught Stripers and False Albacore with it very well btw).
My „Baltic Candy„, a variation of Bob Popovics famous Surf Candy, is after some years in use quite well known among the coastal fishermen, which makes me pretty happy and proud, to be honest.
This Laser Eel is another variation, which is quite easy to tie, maybe easier than the original Baltic Candy. The only difficulty is the use of uv resin on/in the Laser Dubbing, but there is no extra weight used, so the body becomes easily slick.
Just give this fly a try, it looks even better in the water. ;-)
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 1
- Thread: Mono
- Tail: Polar Fibre white and olive
- Flash: Angel Hair Holographic Silver
- Inner Body: Laser Flash Rainbow
- Body: Senyo’s Laser Dub white and olive
- Eyes: 3D-Eyes yellow 3mm
- UV Resin: Bug Bond
Place the hook in the vise, tie in a piece of polar fibre in white, then a couple of strands of angelhair and another piece of polar fibre, this time in olive. It’s very important to comb the material carefully.
Wind some strands of the laser Flash rainbow around the hook shank and catch it with your thread.
Tie in a bunch of Senyo’s Laser Dub on top and underneath the hook shank and comb it backwards. Bring the thread to the hook eye and do a whip finish. Put the eyes on right place on both sides.
Put some Bug Bond on the head and let it soak into the Laser Dubbing. Cure it with your Bug Bond uv torch.
Apply another coating of Bug Bond to make the head nice and slick.
That’s it! The finished fly, very durable and fishy! Hopefully it brings a nice bend in your rod!