I just love spey hackles to tie shrimp patterns.
You can find the tutorial here https://theonefly.com/?p=535
Spey = Shrimps
Antworten
Schlagwort-Archive: Eyes
Some Poor Man’s Pattegrisen
A very good seatrout pattern. It’s a little bit easier and cheaper then the original Pattegrisen by Claus Eriksen. I’ve made a step by step some time ago, have a look here https://theonefly.com/?p=535
Have fun! :-)
Bad Ass Bass Banger – Step By Step
The Bad Ass Bass Banger – A streamer perfect for bass/perch and zander/walleye. It has a great action under water, because of the excellent moving tail, the jigging and the massiv front collar, which pushes a lot of water. It’s easy and fast to tie, durable and just a great fishing fly. The jigging can be controled by the weight of the brass dumbells.
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
- Thread: Dyneema white and UTC fluo green
- Dubbing: Ice Dubbing Chartreuse
- Tail/Body: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
- Front Collar: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
- Head: Brass Dumbells with Eyes, Senyo’s Laser Dub fluo chartreuse + green/ chartruese, Bug Bond
- Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
Put the hook in the vise, wind a good basement of thread and tie in the dumbell eyes. Use super glue during the tying, so the dumbells won’t slip around the hook shank during fishing.
Splitt the thread or make a dubbing loop, but the ice dubbing in the gap and twist it, then brush ist with your velcro-brush and wind it from the back to the front behind the dumbells. Then brush the dubbing body again.
Jab the hook through the leather of the rabbit stripe and tie the stripe right behind the dumbells down. Secure the punctured stripe with a little drop of super glue.
Tie in the krinkle mirror flash an each side. I prefer to use two or more different colors of flash. Split the thread again and put some rabbit stripe in a material clamp and cut away the leather. Put the rabbit stripe hair into the thread gap and twist the thread, then wind it around the hook next to the dumbells.
Change the thread and tie in the laser dub like shown on the pictures above on top and on the underside. The lighter color always belong to the underside.
Finish with a nice massive thread-head, which pushes the senyo back.
Push the senyo dubbing on the underside to the back and apply the Bug Bond on the underside and on the head.
Ready to fish! Wish you a lot of fun with the Bad Ass Bass Banger!
tl
Holger Lachmann
Wiggle-Fox for Pike
Inspired by my buddy Alex Jobski, I tied this Wiggle-Fox tuned with a Zonker Stripe. Looks pretty cool! Thanks Alex! ;-)
New Zonker Muddler
This a kind of pimped Muddler Minnow. I use a piece of zonker stripe for the tail, some fancy dubbing mixed with flash dubbing, krinkle flash, a deer hair muddler head, funky eyes and and a heavy tungsten bead to get it down to the predators. One of my absolut favorite streamer pattern for trout and seatrout!
Baltic Candy Step by Step
Everybody knows Bob Popovics‘ famous Surf Candy. A really great pattern to imitate bait fish and sandeels. I always loved this pattern. The only thing I didn’t like was the stiff material, which is used for it. For my seatrout fishing in the Baltic sea, I wanted the pattern to move more like the real sandeel.
I was always a fan of soft materials, so I tried polar fibre which looks fantastic underwater and moves really nice. The big problem: It was wrapping around the hook bend while casting, which was annoying. The solution was to expand the epoxy body behind the hook bend. This prevents the tangling extremely well.
Another important feature is the weight in the front of the fly which causes a strong jigging effect. The natural behavior of a sandeel when chased by a predator is that it swims as fast as it can to the bottom to hide in the sand. The jigging effect imitate this behavior.
I think I tied now over 1000 Baltic Candies and they changed a lot over the last years. The first years I used 5minute epoxy for the body and I developed some tricks to build a perfect smooth body without a lot of efforts. I showed these tricks at a lot of fairs in the last years and there was always an „Aaah!“-effect for the audience and even for some of the other tiers, but I wouldn’t tell you the tricks! ;-)
Why? The answer is quite simple. I don’t use epoxy anymore. I was annoyed by the yellowing of the epoxy after some months. It doesn’t matter which epoxy brand you are using, everything turns yellow! You don’t tie a BC in 5 minutes, that’s for sure, so it’s hard to see your with love tied flies turning yellow. The other important point is, that epoxy is very unhealthy. So I changed to uv-resin, which means all my nice epoxy tricks were useless….but that was not to bad, because working with uv-resin is quite easy, especially when you are working with „tackfree“-resin.
A Baltic Candy wet and dry
My Baltic Candies becomes smaller and thinner over the years, because of a lot of improvement. It’s harder for the fish to find out if it’s real food or not, when the fly looks a bit blurry in the water. Another advantage is, that a slim sandeel pattern with weight in the front flies through the air like a dart. Even with your hand you can throw a Baltic Candy several meters! Try this little experiment with a normal fly….you’ll see whats happened. ;-)
Bernd Ziesche with perfect baltic silver. You can see my Baltic Candy on the cork handle. ;-)
This sbs is for a „fully dressed“ Baltic Candy. You can use less flash if you prefer it. Personally I got Baltic Candies with different amounts of flash material.
Two important tips: First, strip the Baltic Candy really fast through the water with some stops. You could never, really never(!), strip the BC too fast. We could never reach the speed of a spin fishermen, so there is no „too fast“.
Secondly, it could happen that the polar fibre is a bit disarranged after you caught a fish. Just use a velcro on your jacket or vest as a comb to brush the BC.
At last, I have to thank my buddy Bernd Ziesche (great guide, superb casting instructor and owner of the fly fishing school www.first-cast.de) for his tests and comments over the years!
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 2 or 1
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Body: Twisted Flash silver/pearl
- Bite Point: UV-Thread orange
- Wing: Polar Fibre (white, misty blue, olive), Angel-Hair holographic-silver
- Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash pearl
- Eyes: Stick-On-Eyes
- UV-Resin: Bug Bond
- Thread: Uni-Mono
Wind the lead wire around the hook shank and secure it with super glue.
Tie in the twisted flash.
Twist the flash and wind it to the front and catch it with your thread.
Tie in a little hot bite point at the end of the shank.
Tie in a bunch of white polar fibre on the underside of the fly.
Tie in the angel-hair.
Tie in bunches of blue and olive polar fibre.
Tie in two strands of krinkle mirror flash on each side and do a whip finish.
Pull the fibres with your left hand and apply the Bug Bond and cure it with your uv-torch.
Put the stick-on eyes on each side and apply the second thin coating of Bug Bond. The Baltic Candy is tackfree and now ready for fishing. If you are a crazy fly tyer like myself, you apply a third quick coating of Bug Bond, which gives really a smooth high end finish („black“ photo)! ;)
That’s it, the Baltic Candy, my modified version of Bob Popovics‘ famous Surf Candy.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Small Zonker-Baitfish
I like….no, I love streamers, which are easy to tie, but they always have to play nicely in the water. Zonker stripes are one of my favorite materials since a long time. It’s durable, easy to tie in and most important, it moves in the water like hell.
This little fellow is only about 5 cm long (less than 2 inches). The front part with dubbing and the eyes is coated with uv-resin, in this case I used Clear Cure Goo (CCG) which works really well. First I used CCG Hydro, which is fluid like water, to fix everything, than CCG Tack Free for the final coating.
It’s an all around baitfish pattern, which can be used for any type of predators. I tie it on a saltwater hook and nip down the barb, when using in freshwater. So I use often the same fly first in spring for seatrout and later in the year for brown trout.
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 4
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Ribbing: Mono
- Body: SLF Prism Dub in tan
- Back and Tail: Zonker Stripe
- Eyes and Head: 3 D Eyes, SLF Prism Dub and Clear Cure Goo
Wind the lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.
Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing.
Split the thread, put the SLF Prism Dub in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.
Wind the twisted dubbing around untill you reach the middle of the shank.
Tie an piece of zonker stripe.
Rib the Zonker with the mono and catch the mono with your thread.
Here you can see the nice profile of the zonker.
Dub the head in the same way like the body and brush it with your velcro brush.
Put some eyes on the head and and secure it with Clear Cure Goo Hydro. Then put a final coating of Clear Cure Goo Tack Free on the head.
No bubbles like with epoxy, just clear resin so you can see the hot twinkle of the Prism Dub.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann