These streamers for pike are articulated, so the move very nice. The length is between 17-20 cm. Even if the look quite bulky, they are easy to cast, because the materials are tied in sparsely . Really flies that everyone can cast.
I was tying some more OZOs in a natural color for an upcoming show at a fly shop. I changed the way of the front collar at these ones. Doesn’t look bad at all, I guess.
I wanted to tie a new streamer pattern and it should have a great movement in the water. So I united 3 importend characteristics:
So I tied an articulated fly with ostrich and zonker strips and put on a Fish Skull Baitfish Head. These aluminum heads are weighing about 0,45 g. Enough weight to let the OZO Streamer jig, light enough to cast it easily.
The ostrich and the zonker stripes are moving fantastic. Every little piece of the fly is moving and jigging like it is something real.
There are two Gamakatsu F 314 #6 hooks in this fly. The front hook is normal, the tail hook is pointing upwards. If you don’t like to fish tandem hooks, or it is not allowed in the water you fish…no problem! Just cut off the first hook with a pair of pincers and your are ready to go.
Three DANCING SQUIDS I finished last night in three different colors:
white/pearl | white/uv-sand | white/uv-pink
The idea behind this fly was to create a squid pattern, for fishing in the Baltic Sea for sea trouts. I wanted a squid pattern with a great movement in the water and it must be easy to cast. There are a lot of squid patterns around, but we fish for sea trout mostly with 6 and 7weights and casting long distances, so the less material the better. The DANCING SQUID moves great because of the sili legs, the ostrich and the articulation. The mantle is made from arctic fox and laser dub and got a nice translucency. They are weighted and tied on a Gamakatsu F 314 #4.
Watch out sea trouts, the DANCING SQUID is coming! ;-)
Everyone is talking about Squids in the Baltic Sea right now. Why? You can read it here on Globalflyfisher
It’s a nice and interesting written articel by Martin Joergensen. Martin is from Denmark and he is close to the sources, so why should I write it again? ;-) Thx Martin!
So, I don’t got any squid patterns in my fly box for sea trouts. That’s why I was testing a little bit on my tying place. These are the first two patterns.
First try, unweighted
The second try is weighted in the front and I put the eye on the second part and just the mantle on the main hook.
Some articulated pike flies in natural colors tied on 4/0 hooks. I don’t know why, but I got a lot of faith in it at the moment.
Well, it’s raining, wind is blowing really strong and the snow melts. Right weather to tie a fly, watching fish porn and dreaming about the fishing season to come.
I used the 35mm Articulated Shanks and the new Living Eyes „Ice“ from Flymen Fishing Company for it for this pattern, together with arctic fox, zonker stripe and Senyo’s Laser Dub.
Inspired by my buddy Alex Jobski, I tied this Wiggle-Fox tuned with a Zonker Stripe. Looks pretty cool! Thanks Alex! ;-)
I made two short videos how the articulated pike streamer move in the water. The blue streamer is the same as the white/olive one, just another color. Due to the big head made from uv-resin, the craft fur keep its volume in the current and moves really nicely!
[vimeo]https://vimeo.com/52331026[/vimeo]
[vimeo]https://vimeo.com/52330517[/vimeo]
Here’s an example for an articulated pike streamer, which is easy to cast, because we try to create volume without putting to much material into the fly. To much material makes the just inflexible (and expensive ;-) )
I used for this pattern the new articulated shanks from the Flymen Fishing Co. in 35mm to get the right movement and position of the hook.
Material:
Put the hook into the vise, do some turns with your thread and tie in the fox as tail and some strands Flashabou Mirage.
Split your tying thread or form a dubbing loop and put the ice dub between and twist it. Then brush it with your velcro and wind it around the hook shank.
Tie in some fox with the tips pointing to the hook eye, cut the waste, put again some dubbing between the thread, twist it and wind it to the front. Then go with the thread between the fox hair to the hook eye.
Push the fox hair with an empty pen towards the hook bend. Then tie in a green grizzly hackle on each side and some strands of krinkle mirror flash. Whip finish and secure with super glue.
Attach the hook with the articulated shank and put the shank into your vise. Then close the gap with a strong thread and super glue (the little pearls on the thread) to fix the hook. This will hold forever!
Create another dubbing hank and wind it around to create a little bump. Then tie in a bunch of artic fox on the hook shank and a bunch underneath. Comb the hair carefully. Another dubbing hank will follow.
Tie in two green grizzy hackles and some krinkle mirror flash. Then comb a bunch of black arctic fox and tie it in like shown on the picture. Trim away the waste and do some rounds with dubbing and do a quick whip finish secured with super glue.
Push the black fox backwards, attach the eyes and secure the whole head with Bug Bond.
That’s it! Ready to go. Have fun with the pikes!
Holger Lachmann
Sometimes it is just fun to tie such kind of a monster fly. This pike streamer with a length of 27 cm is articulated to give the fly the maximum of flexibility.There is just one hook in the middle of the fly.
It’s a combination of natural hair and feathers together with synthetics, which creates a big shape and the effect of mass without being to heavy when wet. It’s still possible to cast it with a 8 weight + rod and a pike taper line or a shooting head.
Material:
Put a hook in the vise and tie in some fox tail hair. Put a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and tie it in.
Mix the dubbing. I used SLF Saltwater Dub in pearl and ginger and a little bit of SLF Prism dub.
Tie in the mono for ribbing, split the thread, put the dubbing in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.
Wind around the dubbing, tie in a hackle next to the hook eye and wind it backwards, then wind the ribbing to the front to secure the hackle. Catch the ribbing and do a whip finish. Use a velcro brush to comb the fly.
Cut the hook bend.
Put another hook in the vise and wind some lead wire on the front of the hook.
Tie in a piece of mono for the connection between the two pieces.
Connect the two pieces like above. Use super glue to fix everything.
Tie in another piece of mono for ribbing, then split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and wind it around to the front.
Wind around a hackle and rib it with mono like you’ve done with the first section.
You can finish the fly or dub a little head, put some 3 D eyes on each side and secure them with uv-resin.
tl Holger Lachmann