Rune Westphal designed a nice shrimp pattern. It’s like a Perfect Leo Shrimp from Kern Lund with an translucent rear body.
This is my first attempt with this pattern. I tied the front and the mouth part a bit different with CDC and Arctic Fox. It’s not perfect, but for the first try, I’m quite satisfied.
Here, you can see the tying video of Rune:
I like….no, I love streamers, which are easy to tie, but they always have to play nicely in the water. Zonker stripes are one of my favorite materials since a long time. It’s durable, easy to tie in and most important, it moves in the water like hell.
This little fellow is only about 5 cm long (less than 2 inches). The front part with dubbing and the eyes is coated with uv-resin, in this case I used Clear Cure Goo (CCG) which works really well. First I used CCG Hydro, which is fluid like water, to fix everything, than CCG Tack Free for the final coating.
It’s an all around baitfish pattern, which can be used for any type of predators. I tie it on a saltwater hook and nip down the barb, when using in freshwater. So I use often the same fly first in spring for seatrout and later in the year for brown trout.
- Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 4
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Ribbing: Mono
- Body: SLF Prism Dub in tan
- Back and Tail: Zonker Stripe
- Eyes and Head: 3 D Eyes, SLF Prism Dub and Clear Cure Goo
Wind the lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.
Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing.
Split the thread, put the SLF Prism Dub in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.
Wind the twisted dubbing around untill you reach the middle of the shank.
Tie an piece of zonker stripe.
Rib the Zonker with the mono and catch the mono with your thread.
Here you can see the nice profile of the zonker.
Dub the head in the same way like the body and brush it with your velcro brush.
Put some eyes on the head and and secure it with Clear Cure Goo Hydro. Then put a final coating of Clear Cure Goo Tack Free on the head.
No bubbles like with epoxy, just clear resin so you can see the hot twinkle of the Prism Dub.
Most people use CDC for all kinds of dry flies, but it’s a good material for streamer or for example shrimp pattern, because of the movement under water.
This is an easy pattern, which works really great for seatrout, especially when you’ve got sunny, calm weather. Works well for the baltic garfish too.
This fly doesn’t immitate a specific animal, it just looks like food for the seatrout. A little bit like a shrimp, a small baitfish or a mysis.
- Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 10
- Tail: golden CDC and 2 fibre Micro Chrystal Flash
- Ribbing: Mono 0,14mm
- Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing Pearl and Ginger
- Body and Front Hackle: golden CDC
- Weight: Lead Wire
Wind thin lead wire around the front part of the hook shank.
Use some CDC fibres for the tail.
Add two fibres of Micro Chrystal Flash.
Tie in some mono for ribbing. It’s imortant to fold the mono back and catch it with the thread, so it can’t slip when pulling tight for the ribbing.
SLF Saltwater Dubbing in Pearl and Ginger before mixing
Split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap.
Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing.
The first part should be 3/5 of the shank.
Bring the thread to the front.
… and dub from the front backwards to the beginning of the already dubbed body.
I tried to show you how the fly looks in the water. The SLF becomes semi-transparent. Together with the CDC looks the fly like it’s alive and yummy.
tight lines Holger Lachmann
I like to use a dubbing mix made out of some nice dubbings. Choose whatever you want. One part of the dubbing should be a little bit spiky.
Mix the dubbings together. Here’s my result.
Other materials I use for the Tangloppen (scud in the baltic sea).
Tie in the short marabou tail. Most common hook sizes are # 12 – #8.
Tie in the mono ribbing and the body stretch.
Dub the body.
Turn over the body stretch and catch it with the thread next to the hook eye.
Rib the body with the mono.
Tie in the antennas, make a whip finish and varnish the head. At least brush the dubbing body with a velcro brush to imitate the little legs. Voilà! A nice little easy to tie Tangloppen. Sometimes this small fly is really, really good for seatrout.
I like my Tangloppen unweighted, so I can fish it very slowly and in really shallow water over beds of seaweed.
I posted this step by step instruction already on my Facebook page, but I think it’s an important pattern for seatrout, so it should be part of the blog.