Matuka Streamer

Veröffentlicht am 19/02/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Here’s a step by step tutorial for a matuka streamer. This type of streamer is very old and you don’t see it to often in the fly boxes of the fishermen today, but the truth is, that the feathers move nicely, especially when you put some weight in the front of the fly, which causes a jigging effect.

Materials:

Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
Feathers: Keough Saltwater Grizzly Hackle, Keough Saltwater Hackle
Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing white and ginger
Eyes: Deer Creek Gator Eyes
Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
UV-Resin: Deer Creek Diamond Hard Tack Free Resin
Weight: Lead Wire
Ribbing: Mono

Wind some lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.

Create a little dubbing ball at the end of the hook shank, tie in a saltwater hackle and wind it around. The dubbing ball pushes the fibres to the sides.

Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing. Split the tying thread and put the dubbing mix in the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing. Wind the dubbing around the hook shank and brush it with your velcro .

Take two feathers and pull some fibres from one side as shown on the photo. Tie in the feather at the front and secure them by ribbing them with the mono. Catch the ribbing with your thread.

Tie in some strands of krinkle mirror on each side and do a whip finish with your thread. Take two gator eyes and put them on each side. You should use super glue to secure them. The fly is nearly finished. Just take some Diamond Hard Tack Free resin and let it run between the eyes, then cure it with your uv torch. Repeat this till the gap between the eyes is filled. This makes the fly very strong and durable.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Quill CDC Emerger

Veröffentlicht am 02/02/2012 von Holger Lachmann

A simple, but quiet effective mayfly emerger.Tie it in different sizes and colours to match the hatch. The body of the emerger should hang deep in the surface. Never put some floatant on the body, only a bit on the thorax and the wings if necessary. With the amount of uv-resin on the quill, you can control, how deep the fly should hang in the surface.

This pattern often made my day, when other patterns were ignored.

Materials:

Hook: TMC 212Y # 13
Abdomen: Stripped Peacock Quill and UV-Resin (use tack free resin, if not, you have to coat the resin with nail polish)
Thorax: Alpaka Dubbing
Wings: CDC and for splitting some Yarn

Tie in a stripped peacock quill.

Wind the stripped quill around the hook shank and catch it with your thread.

Put a layer of uv-resin around the quill body to secure it.

Tie in a piece of yarn.

Tie in a bunch of CDC fibres.

Spin the dubbing around the thread.

Dub the thorax.

Fold the yarn to the front to split the CDC and catch it with your thread.

Whip finish the fly and cut the CDC in shape.

View from underneath.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Biot CDC Parachute

Veröffentlicht am 29/01/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Antworten

Turkey biots are very good for tying dry fly bodies. They swim really well.

I don’t discribe every tying step here, because they are the same (except the biot abdomen) as you have seen at the quill body CDC parachute tutorial.

Materials:

Hook: TMC 100 # 16
Tail: Micro Fibetts
Abdomen: Turkey Biot
Wing: CDC
Hackle: Whiting Genetic Dry Fly
Thorax: SLF Masterclass

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Fast CDC Dun

Veröffentlicht am 25/01/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Antworten

A fast to tie mayfly dun pattern made out of CDC. It floats very well and is durable. I like to fish it in semi-fast running water. Micro fibetts, 2-4 CDC feathers (colour of your choice) and a bit yarn, that’s all you need. I don’t know who invented this pattern, but I think it was Marc Petitjean.

Materials:

Hook: Maruto D04 BL # 12
Tail: Micro Fibetts
Abdomen: CDC Feather
Thorax and Wing: CDC Feather, Yarn

Tie in a loop of thread and 3 micro fibetts. Split the fibetts with the 2 piece of thread after cutting the loop.

Tie in a CDC feather with the tip first. Twist the feather and wind it around the shank. Then cut all little fibres, so that you’ve got a nice tapered CDC body.

Tie in a piece of yarn.

Preparing the CDC

Split the thread and put the prepared CDC in the gap. Then spin the bobbin to twist the CDC and the thread.

Wind the twisted CDC around the hook and pull it up with your fingers after every turn.

Seperate the the CDC with the yarn, to create the two main wings of the mayfly. Catch the yarn with the thread.

I like to fold the yarn back again, tie it in and cut it, so I make sure I’ve got a nice free hook eye.

A whip finish to secure the fly. Take your scissors…

…and cut the fly in shape. That’s it! If you tied some of them, you need less then 4-5 minutes to tie it.

Fish view

tight lines Holger Lachmann

Extended Body CDC Caddis

Veröffentlicht am 20/01/2012 von Holger Lachmann

When it’s getting dark on the river, the caddis often become very active. It’s really fun to fish a big caddis fly surfing over the surface. Sometimes the trouts go mad and take the fly very aggressively.

I don`t want to check all the time, if the fly is floating well. The fly should float like a piece of cork all night long. That`s why I like to use materials like CDC and foam for those kind of flies. If you want to treat the fly with fly floatant, you should use a highly fluid floatant like Water Shed. Very important, Water Shed must be completely dried before fishing.

Materials:

Hook: Maruto C47BL # 12
Extended Body: Foam
Wing: CDC and Moose Hock
Top: Pheasant
Body and Legs: CDC
Antennae: Moos Hock

Put a needle in your vise and tie a layer of thread. Very important: Use NOT a waxed thread. If you do, you may get problems pushing the finished body from the needle.

Put a 3 mm wide strip of foam on the needle.

Create some nice segements with your thread. If you got problems creating the body, just google „extended foam body“. There you find some nice videos.

Finish the body behind the last segment with a whip finish.

Pull the extended body from the needle and tie it in.

With a permanent marker you can give the body a nice colour.

As a wing, tie in three CDC feathers. They should be longer than the body.

Over the CDC wing, you should tie in some moos hock hair in the same length like the CDC. It push the CDC down, so the wing is always flat over the body and it increases the floatability. Then tie in some fibres from a pheasant tail. Split the thread, put in some CDC and twist the the thread by rotating the bobbin. I like to work with the Petitjean Magic Tool when preparing the CDC.

If necessary, repeat spinning the CDC and wind it around a second time.

Fot the antennae I used two hair of moose hock.

Pull the pheasant fibres foreward and catch it with the thread.

Spinn some CDC as dubbing around the thread and create a little head, then fold the pheasant fibres back, cut it and whip finish the fly.

To secure the thread and the pheasant use a bit of varnish or really thin uv-resin, which makes the fly very durable.

Finished fly from underneath, or „the fish view“. ;-)

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Closer look at: Senyo’s Laser Dub

Veröffentlicht am 19/01/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Some month ago I started playing around with Senyo’s Laser Dub.

I don’t really like it for the normal dubbed bodies, but for creating 3-D heads and bodies of flies, it’s really cool stuff.

You can put it in a dubbing loop, brush it with a velcro-brush and wind it around or stack it like you do with deer hair, which works best for me do get really compact bodies.

The combination with a zonker stripe works really great. The flies got a lot of volume and the zonker stripe moves really nice in the water.

I gave some friends baitfish patterns tied with Senyo’s Laser Dub for some tests. The results were really good. Perch, trout, asp, chub and seatrout (biggest one was around 70 cm) were caught. When you fish those patterns in strong currents, you should put some weight in the fly or fish with a sinking line.

Here are some examples.