Used some quiet hours for some tying of nymphs for my fishing in the next year.
Materials:
I posted this pattern some weeks ago on my blog and on Facebook and I was asked, if I could do a step by step tutorial about it. So, here it is. I hope you like it as much as I do.
Materials:
Put the hook with the tungsten bead in the vise.
Form the unterbody with your thread and tie in the Flashabou and Polish Quill.
Color the underbody with an olive marker pen and wind the Flashabou and then the Polish Quill around the body and secure it with your tying thread.
Put some Bug Bond Lite on the body and cure the resin with your Bug Bond torch. Then, tie in some strands from a pheasant tail feather as shown.
Dub some SLF light olive on the fly and tie in the brown colored Flashabou Mirage. Cut the Mirage like shown on the photo.
Dub the rest with SLF in cinnamon till you reach the tungsten bead.
Cut a „V“ out of a partridge feather and tie in the fibres of the partridge as legs. Then fold the pheasant strands to the front to create the wing case and catch it with your tying thread. Put a drop of Bug Bond Lite on the wing case incl. the thread with which you catch the pheasant. Cure the Bug Bond Lite with your Bug Bond torch and cut the thread. You’re done! The Bug Bond Lite makes it super strong! You don’t need to do whip finish!
That’s it! Now grab your fly rod and catch some nice trout or grayling or whatever you like to catch with nymphs and pupas!
tight lines!
Holger
01.01.2014
The first fly of the year, the Hangover Fly. A nymph # 14 with a tungsten Bead.
This Caddis Pupa, tied on a Daiichi Klinkhamer hook # 14 was the last fly I tied in 2013.
Here’s the step by step tutorial for a mayfly nymph pattern, to imitate the BWO for example. This pattern is durable and looks quite like the natural, when drifting through the river. Don’t use too much material when tying these kind of nymphs. You should always keep the slim original in your mind.
This pattern is another example, how usefull uv-resin could be, when tying even small flies for trout and graylig. For this fly I used Clear Cure Goo Hydro, which is highly fluid like water. It’s perfect for smaller patterns and is soacked up by dubbing and feathers, what makes the flies really durable.
Materials:
Put the hook into the vise and wind the flat lead on the hook shank. Do a second layer of lead on the front part like shown on the foto.
Tie in three pheasant tail fibres to imitate the tail of the mayfly.
Tie in a small piece od stretch flex and wind it aroung the hook shank.
Cut a piece out of a pheasant tail feather and tie it in for the wing case.
Take a partridge feather and cut a little piece out of the tip. Then tie the partridge feather in with the tip first.
Dub the thorax, then fold the partridge to the front and catch it with your thread next to the hook eye.
Put a little drop of Clear Cure Goo Hydro on the stem of the partridge feather to join the dubbing with the feather. Cure the CCG Hydro with the uv torch. The hackle stem and the dubbing are joined together now. Nothing will ever slip and the legs will stay as shown on the photo.
Fold the pheasant to the front and catch it with your tying thread. Put a little drop of Clear Cure Goo Hydro on the wing case and cure it with the uv torch.
The wing case is now very durable after curing the CCG Hydro. If you want a shiny wing case, that’s what I prefer, put a second drop of CCG Hydro on the wing case and cure it. Now, the mayfly nymph is ready for fishing.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Put a tungsten bead on the hook (here it’s a TMC 2312 #12)
Tie in some fibres from a Coq de Leon hackle as tail.
Tie in stripped peacock quill.
Create a tapered body with the tying thread.
Wind the quill around the hook shank. The dark side of the quill should point to the hook bend.
Put a small drop of uv-resin on the body and cover the quill with a small coat.
The uv-resin after curing. Now, the quill body looks really nice and it’s secured against the trouts teeth. A tack free uv-resin works best.
Tie in some pheasant tail fibres for the wing case.
Tie in a hen hackle with the tip first. The hackle will create the legs of the nymph.
Dub the thorax with a dubbing of your choice. I used SLF-Spicky-Dubbing.
Fold the hen hackle first and then the pheasant tail fibres to the hook eye and catch it with the thread close to the tungsten bead.
Cut the hen hackle and the pheasant tail fibres close to the tungsten head and make a whip finish.
Finish the fly with a drop of uv-resin on the wing case.
A heavy nymph with quiet a real shape, nice colours and very durable.
Holger