Pissed Off Shrimp

I tied a smaller shrimp on a Partridge CS 54 # 8, using the Pro 3D Shrimp Shell in XXSmall clear on pink base. The shrimp is weighted with a small tungsten shrimp weight. The legs are made out of CDC, the antennas are Whiting Rooster Spey Hackles. It’s not a really a complicated pattern and I’ll tie some more in different colors for my seatrout fishing in the Baltic Sea.

Articulated Pike Streamer Step By Step

Here’s an example for an articulated pike streamer, which is easy to cast, because we try to create volume without putting to much material into the fly. To much material makes the just inflexible (and expensive ;-) )

I used for this pattern the new articulated shanks from the Flymen Fishing Co. in 35mm to get the right movement and position of the hook.

 

Material:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SL 12 S # 4/0  (be carefull, they are soooooo sharp!)
  • Articulated Shank: 35mm from Flymen Fishing Co.
  • Tail and Wing: Arctic Fox chartreuse and black
  • Feather: Green Grizzly Hackle
  • Body: Ice Dub Pearl
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash pearl and Flashabou Mirage Saltwater
  • Eyes: Hareline fluo yellow
  • UV-Resin: Bug Bond

 

Put the hook into the vise, do some turns with your thread and tie in the fox as tail and some strands Flashabou Mirage.

 

Split your tying thread or form a dubbing loop and put the ice dub between and twist it. Then brush it with your velcro and wind it around the hook shank.

 

Tie in some fox with the tips pointing to the hook eye, cut the waste, put again some dubbing between the thread, twist it and wind it to the front. Then go with the thread between the fox hair to the hook eye.

 

Push the fox hair with an empty pen towards the hook bend. Then tie in a green grizzly hackle on each side and some strands of krinkle mirror flash. Whip finish and secure with super glue.

 

Attach the hook with the articulated shank and put the shank into your vise. Then close the gap with a strong thread and super glue (the little pearls on the thread) to fix the hook. This will hold forever!

 

Create another dubbing hank and wind it around to create a little bump. Then tie in a bunch of artic fox on the hook shank and a bunch underneath. Comb the hair carefully. Another dubbing hank will follow.

 

Tie in two green grizzy hackles and some krinkle mirror flash. Then comb a bunch of black arctic fox and tie it in like shown on the picture. Trim away the waste and do some rounds with dubbing and do a quick whip finish secured with super glue.

Push the black fox backwards, attach the eyes and secure the whole head with Bug Bond.

That’s it! Ready to go. Have fun with the pikes!

Holger Lachmann

Poxy-Fox

When I first tied this pattern, I used epoxy for it. That’s why there’s „Poxy“ in the name of the fly. Today I use uv-resin for it, but I didn’t wanted to chance the name. ;-)

When you tie this pattern, it’s very important, that the resin soaks into the braid at the end of the fly to fix the marble fox, so it won’t tangle around the hook bend while casting. The materials used are:

  • Gamakatsu F314 # 2
  • Mono thread
  • 3D Eyes
  • Marble Fox olive
  • Krinkle Mirror Flash
  • Ice Dub golden olive
  • Felix Cord olive
  • Permanent Markers
  • UV-Resin

You can also tie in some lead wire if you want, to create a jigging effect for example.

The Poxy-Fox looks really massive on the picture, but in the water it got some translucency. That’s the reason, why you should dub a thin body before slipping the flexi cord around the hook shank.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Fleye Foil Fox Candy – Step By Step

Here’s a Surf Candy style pattern tied with the new Fleye Foils by Bob Popovics. The tail made out of arctic fox wiggles nice in the water. Much better than most synthetics. It’s not just a battern for the saltwater fisherman, you can also fish it in freshwater. Small sizes for trout and char for example, bigger ones for asp. Just give it a try.

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
  • Thread: Mono
  • Tail: Arctic Fox
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash Pearl
  • Body: Senyo’s Laser Dub, Bob Popovics‘ Fleye Foils „Silverside“ and uv-resin

 

 

Tie in the arctic fox as tail and 3 strands of krinkle mirror flash, one on each side and one on top.

 

3mm in front of the fox, tie in a bunch of white senyo’s laser dub on the top of the hook shank and one underneath.

 

Do the same with a bunch of laser dub holographic minnow belly 3 mm infront of the white dub.

Now, pick two colors of laser dub of your liking, here it’s light olive and shrimp pink, and tie it in like you see above.

Pull the laser dub backwards, that’s how you put a bit of volume to the head, otherwise it won’t fit to the shape of the foil.

Put a foil on each side. Just tie in the little „nose“ of the foil with a couple of turns and whip finish the fly.

Pull the laser dub and the foils backwards and start to apply the uv resin on the body. The resin should soak into the dubbing, that gives the fly later some translucency. Mostly it’s easier to applicate two layers of uv resin. You got much more control of everything.

If you don’t use a tackfree uv resin, put a thin coating of nail varnish on the uv resin to get a tackfree glossy finish.

That’s it! Ready for fishing!

tl

Holger Lachmann

Grey Magnus Step By Step

 

This pattern is so famous….no more words about it, let’s start tying! ;-)

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
  • Tail: Grey Grizzly Marabou / Chrystal Flash Pearl
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: Hare’e Ice Dub Hare’s Ear from Hareline / Grizzly Hackle
  • Front Hackle: Dun Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Eyes: Bead Chain Eyes

 

Do a layer of thread on the hook shank and tie in the grizzly marabou as a tail.

 

Tie in two strands of pearl crystal flash on each side of the marabou and fix the mono for the ribbing.

 

Spin some dubbing around the thread and dub the body. Don’t dub the body to tight, because we want to brush it later.

 

Tie in a smaler grizzly hackle and wind the hackle from the front to the back around the dubbing body. Rib the dubbing body and the hackle turns with the mono from the back to the front and catch the mono with your tying thread. Give the body a nice brush with your velcro-brush.

 

Take a dun grizzly saltwater hackle and prepare it like shown on the picture. Tie it in and wind it around the hook to create the front hackle.

 

Take some bead chain eyes and tie them in. After some turns around the eyes, put a drop of super glue between the eyes to secure them, then keep winding the thread around the eyes. That’s how you create a strong bead chain head. If you fix the eyes with loose turns of thread, they will slip around the hook shank. That’s it, the Grey Magnus.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann