Archiv der Kategorie: Sea Trout Flies step by step

Matuka Streamer

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1

Here’s a step by step tutorial for a matuka streamer. This type of streamer is very old and you don’t see it to often in the fly boxes of the fishermen today, but the truth is, that the feathers move nicely, especially when you put some weight in the front of the fly, which causes a jigging effect.

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
  • Feathers: Keough Saltwater Grizzly Hackle, Keough Saltwater Hackle
  • Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing white and ginger
  • Eyes: Deer Creek Gator Eyes
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
  • UV-Resin: Deer Creek Diamond Hard Tack Free Resin
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Ribbing: Mono

 

Wind some lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.

 

Create a little dubbing ball at the end of the hook shank, tie in a saltwater hackle and wind it around. The dubbing ball pushes the fibres to the sides.

 

Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing. Split the tying thread and put the dubbing mix in the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing. Wind the dubbing around the hook shank and brush it with your velcro .

 

Take two feathers and pull some fibres from one side as shown on the photo. Tie in the feather at the front and secure them by ribbing them with the mono. Catch the ribbing with your thread.

 

Tie in some strands of krinkle mirror on each side and do a whip finish with your thread. Take two gator eyes and put them on each side. You should use super glue to secure them. The fly is nearly finished. Just take some Diamond Hard Tack Free resin and let it run between the eyes, then cure it with your uv torch. Repeat this till the gap between the eyes is filled. This makes the fly very strong and durable.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

The Soft Brown Grizzly

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Another all around seatrout fly. This pattern is inspired by the famous fly „Omøborsten“. This fly is mainly tied out of soft Keough grizzly saltwater hackles, which pulsate strongly in the water. I made a little video at the end of the tutorial, where you can get a slightly impression, how the fly mowes in the water.

Materials:

  • Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 6
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Tail: Dubbing & Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: SLF Dubbing & SLF Prism Dubbing, Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Front: Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Hot Spot: Fluo Thread

 

Wind the lead wire around the front part of the hook and secure it with super glue. Then create a little dubbing ball at the end of the fly.

 

Tie in a really big and soft hackle.

 

Wind the hackle around the hook shank.

 

Tie in some pheasant tippets.

 

Tie in the mono for ribbing. Then split the thread, put the dubbing in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the thread and the dubbing. Wind the Dubbing around the shank.

 

Tie in another hackle…

 

…wind it towards the end of the fly. Secure the hackle by ribbing the it with the mono. Then brush the body, so the dubbing strands are mixed with the hackle fibres.

 

Tie in another big hackle at the front. This big front hackle pushes the water and creates much turbulance.

 

Create a nice little hot spot with your fluo thread and varnish it. That’s it!

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

click to play the video[vimeo]http://vimeo.com/36655237[/vimeo]

Small Zonker-Baitfish

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I like….no, I love streamers, which are easy to tie, but they always have to play nicely in the water. Zonker stripes are one of my favorite materials since a long time. It’s durable, easy to tie in and most important, it moves in the water like hell.

This little fellow is only about 5 cm long (less than 2 inches). The front part with dubbing and the eyes is coated with uv-resin, in this case I used Clear Cure Goo (CCG) which works really well. First I used CCG Hydro, which is fluid like water, to fix everything, than CCG Tack Free for the final coating.

It’s an all around baitfish pattern, which can be used for any type of predators. I tie it on a saltwater hook and nip down the barb, when using in freshwater. So I use often the same fly first in spring for seatrout and later in the year for brown trout.

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 4
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: SLF Prism Dub in tan
  • Back and Tail: Zonker Stripe
  • Eyes and Head: 3 D Eyes, SLF Prism Dub and Clear Cure Goo

 

Wind the lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.

 

Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing.

 

Split the thread, put the SLF Prism Dub in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.

 

Wind the twisted dubbing around untill you reach the middle of the shank.

 

Tie an piece of zonker stripe.

 

Rib the Zonker with the mono and catch the mono with your thread.

 

Here you can see the nice profile of the zonker.

 

Dub the head in the same way like the body and brush it with your velcro brush.

 

Put some eyes on the head and and secure it with Clear Cure Goo Hydro. Then put a final coating of Clear Cure Goo Tack Free on the head.

 

No bubbles like with epoxy, just clear resin so you can see the hot twinkle of the Prism Dub.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Poor Mans Pattegrisen

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10

The famous shrimp fly „Pattegrisen“ is one of the most popular seatrout patterns of the last years for the fly fishermen at the Baltic sea. It’s a very large fly with a great movement in the water. The key-material are Rooster Spey Hackles from Whiting dyed in the colour salmon. The long soft  fibres pulsate, when retrieving with some stops . Lovely!

But there’s a little problem…. the original Whiting Rooster Spey Hackles are expansive. Some years ago you payed about 35,- € for a bronze grade cape, now about 80,- to 90,- €!

That’s the reason I tied the „Poor Mans Pattegrisen“. This pattern is much cheaper, easy to tie and, believe me, it looks really nice in the water! The main ingredient are Whiting HEN Spey Hackles dyed in salmon. They are much cheaper and softer as rooster hackles, but not as long as the original.

Just give the Poor Mans Pattegrisen a try, maybe also in different colours, it’s worth it!

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 6
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Feeler: Whiting Hen Spey Hackles, Fluo Fibre, Krinkle Mirror Flash
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Eyes: Black Shrimp Eyes
  • Body: Whiting Hen Spey Hackles, Spectra Dubbing
  • Roof: Whiting Hen Spey Hackles
  • Hot Spot: UTC Thread fluo. pink

 

Wind some lead wire around the front part of the hook shank and secure it with super glue.

 

Tie in a spey hackle with the tip first.

 

Wind the hackle towards the hook eye and catch it with your tying thread.

 

Tie some strands of fluo fibre on each side of the feeler.

 

Tie in a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and form a little dubbing ball.

 

Tie in the shrimp eyes. The dubbing ball helps to split the eyes nicely.

 

Tie in a piece of mono and a spey hackle.

 

Dub the first part of the body, wind the spey hackle around it and catch it with your thread.

 

Tie in another spey hackle and dub the rest of the body.

 

Wind the hackle around the dubbed body and secure it with your thread, then rib the body with the mono to make it strong and durable.

 

Brush the fly with your velcro brush, so the dubbing fibres are mixed with the hackle fibres.

 

Tie in another spey hackle…

 

… wind it around and secure it with your thread.

 

Take 3-4 spey hackle and equalize the length.

 

Tie in the spey hackles as a roof of the fly.

 

If you want, you can create a little hot spot with fluo tying thread.

 

Varnish the head or put some uv-resin on it. Voilà! The „Poor Mans Pattegrisen“!

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Wiggle Fox step by step

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Material:

  • Hooks: Gamakatsu F 314 # 6
  • Tail: Fox Tail Hair
  • Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing, SLF Prism Dubbing and a Hackle
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Weight: Tungsten Bead or Lead Wire
  • Optional: 3 D Eyes secured with UV-Resin

 

Put a hook in the vise and tie in some fox tail hair. Put a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and tie it in.

 

Mix the dubbing. I used SLF Saltwater Dub in pearl and ginger and a little bit of SLF Prism dub.

 

Tie in the mono for ribbing, split the thread, put the dubbing in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.

 

Wind around the dubbing, tie in a hackle next to the hook eye and wind it backwards, then wind the ribbing to the front to secure the hackle. Catch the ribbing and do a whip finish. Use a velcro brush to comb the fly.

 

Cut the hook bend.

 

Put another hook in the vise and wind some lead wire on the front of the hook.

 

Tie in a piece of mono for the connection between the two pieces.

 

Connect the two pieces like above. Use super glue to fix everything.

 

Tie in another piece of mono for ribbing, then split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and wind it around to the front.

 

Wind around a hackle and rib it with mono like you’ve done with the first section.

 

You can finish the fly or dub a little head, put some 3 D eyes on each side and secure them with uv-resin.

tl                                                                                                                                        Holger Lachmann

Golden CDC Seatrout Fly

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Most people use CDC for all kinds of dry flies, but it’s a good material for streamer or for example shrimp pattern, because of the movement under water.

This is an easy pattern, which works really great for seatrout, especially when you’ve got sunny, calm weather. Works well for the baltic garfish too.

This fly doesn’t immitate a specific animal, it just looks like food for the seatrout. A little bit like a shrimp, a small baitfish or a mysis.

Materials:

  • Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 10
  • Tail: golden CDC and 2 fibre Micro Chrystal Flash
  • Ribbing: Mono 0,14mm
  • Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing Pearl and Ginger
  • Body and Front Hackle: golden CDC
  • Weight: Lead Wire

 

Wind thin lead wire around the front part of the hook shank.

 

Use some CDC fibres for the tail.

 

Add two fibres of Micro Chrystal Flash.

 

Tie in some mono for ribbing. It’s imortant to fold the mono back and catch it with the thread, so it can’t slip when pulling tight for the ribbing.

 

 

 

SLF Saltwater Dubbing in Pearl and Ginger before mixing

 

Mixed dubbing.

 

Split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap.

 

Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing.

 

The first part should be 3/5 of the shank.

 

Bring the thread to the front.

 

Again, split the thread, put the dubbing between…

 

… and dub from the front backwards to the beginning of the already dubbed body.

 

Split the thread and put CDC fibres in the gap. To prepare the CDC i like to use the Marc Petitjean Magic Tool.

 

Spin the bobbin to twist the CDC.

 

Wind the CDC to the eye of the hook, whip finish, brush the whole fly with a toothbrush and varnish the head. The fly is finished.

 

I tried to show you how the fly looks in the water. The SLF becomes semi-transparent. Together with the CDC looks the fly like it’s alive and yummy.

tight lines                                                                                                                   Holger Lachmann

Tangloppen

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I like to use a dubbing mix made out of some nice dubbings. Choose whatever you want. One part of the dubbing should be a little bit spiky.

 

Mix the dubbings together. Here’s my result.

 

Other materials I use for the Tangloppen (scud in the baltic sea).

 

Tie in the short marabou tail. Most common hook sizes are # 12 – #8.

 

Tie in the mono ribbing and the body stretch.

 

Dub the body.

 

Turn over the body stretch and catch it with the thread next to the hook eye.

 

Rib the body with the mono.

 

Tie in the antennas, make a whip finish and varnish the head. At least brush the dubbing body with a velcro brush to imitate the little legs. Voilà! A nice little easy to tie Tangloppen. Sometimes this small fly is really, really good for seatrout.

I like my Tangloppen unweighted, so I can fish it very slowly and in really shallow water over beds of seaweed.

I posted this step by step instruction already on my Facebook page, but I think it’s an important pattern for seatrout, so it should be part of the blog.