Schlagwort-Archive: SLF Saltwater Dubbing

Fly Tier’s Little Helper – Part 1 – Bug Bond Pro Light Mains Adapter

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There are a lot of tools for the fly tier on the market. Some are good, some are useless, some are expensive but worth the money, some are cheap and still super usefull.

I used a lot of different tools and gimmicks in the last 20 years, and in this series I want to show things, which worked well for me and I’ll try to tell you why.

I begin with something very special, the Bug Bond Pro Light Mains Adapter.

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When you look at my flies, you’ll see that I work a lot with uv resin. No matter if I tie dries and nymphs or streamer and flies for pike, seatrout, asp, …

Working with uv resin means, you have to use a uv torch with maximun battery power to harden the resin. I often saw people using a torch with low power, wondering, why the resin won’t cure like it should.

Bug Bond offers a nice solution for the power problem: An adapter for your pro torch to connect it with your power supply at home. You just have to screw the adapter into the torch and you have a super strong uv torch every time.

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To connect the adapter with the torch, you have to screw off the switch at the end.

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Maybe you’re asking yourself how to switch on the torch without the switch at the end? With the Kit comes a solid foot switch like you know them from sewing machines. Just put your foot on the pedal and the torch will do it’s job.

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The torch is always hanging from on of my lamps on my tying desk ready for some action.

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I f you like to use uv resin for your tying, then I can recommend you the Mains Adapter. It’s super nice to use, you got always maximum curing power and you don’t have to care about the batteries.

I use the Adapter now several months and I don’t want to miss it.

5 new Burner

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These 5 „Burner“ are for the master caster Lars Chr Bentsen in Denmark.

 

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Tangloppen For Seatrout

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The Tangloppen imitates Gammarus and Idotea Baltica. These little crustaceans are a very important source of food for seatrouts, even if they are quite small. There are times, seatrout just feed on these small snacks. Also the very big fish, which normally chasing fish like herring and sandeels. So, you always should have some of these little nibbles in your fly box, when you fish in the Baltic Sea. ;-)

I tied these Tangloppen on a Gamakatsu F 314 hook # 4. This hook got a very big gap and a short shank. The body length is around 2cm.

For the tail and the antennas, I used Spanflex. The body is made out of a dubbing mix. The carapace is made with Pro Sportfisher Gammarus Shell # large, ribbed with mono and coated with Bug Bond uv resin. I didn’t use any weight, so you can fish the Tangloppen very slow, like the natural model.

Fish Candy

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This is a Gammarus pattern, weighted with thin lead foil tied on a shrimp hook # 12. Super simple fly. Lead on the hook, some antennas or legs made from Coq de Lon, mono for ribbing, Pro Sportfisher Gammarus Shell black on clear coated with Bug Bond UV Resin, SLF Saltwater Dub fluo shell pink and tying thread. That’s it! Tasty! ;-)

Some Poor Man’s Pattegrisen

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A very good seatrout pattern. It’s a little bit easier and cheaper then the original Pattegrisen by Claus Eriksen. I’ve made a step by step some time ago, have a look here https://theonefly.com/?p=535

Have fun! :-)

Bad Ass Bass Banger – Step By Step

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The Bad Ass Bass Banger – A streamer perfect for bass/perch and zander/walleye. It has a great action under water, because of the excellent moving tail, the jigging and the massiv front collar, which pushes a lot of water. It’s easy and fast to tie, durable and just a great fishing fly. The jigging can be controled by the weight of the brass dumbells.

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
  • Thread: Dyneema white and UTC fluo green
  • Dubbing: Ice Dubbing Chartreuse
  • Tail/Body: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
  • Front Collar: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
  • Head: Brass Dumbells with Eyes, Senyo’s Laser Dub fluo chartreuse + green/ chartruese, Bug Bond
  • Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash

 

Put the hook in the vise, wind a good basement of thread and tie in the dumbell eyes. Use super glue during the tying, so the dumbells won’t slip around the hook shank during fishing.

 

Splitt the thread or make a dubbing loop, but the ice dubbing in the gap and twist it, then brush ist with your velcro-brush and wind it from the back to the front behind the dumbells. Then brush the dubbing body again.

Jab the hook through the leather of the rabbit stripe and tie the stripe right behind the dumbells down. Secure the punctured stripe with a little drop of super glue.

 

Bad Ass Bass Banger (15) (Mittel)

Tie in the krinkle mirror flash an each side. I prefer to use two or more different colors of flash. Split the thread again and put some rabbit stripe in a material clamp and cut away the leather. Put the rabbit stripe hair into the thread gap and twist the thread, then wind it around the hook next to the dumbells.

 

Bad Ass Bass Banger (17) (Mittel)

Change the thread and tie in the laser dub like shown on the pictures above on top and on the underside. The lighter color always belong to the underside.

 

Finish with a nice massive thread-head, which pushes the senyo back.

 

Push the senyo dubbing on the underside to the back and apply the Bug Bond on the underside and on the head.

Ready to fish! Wish you a lot of fun with the Bad Ass Bass Banger!

tl

Holger Lachmann

Pissed Off Shrimp

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I tied a smaller shrimp on a Partridge CS 54 # 8, using the Pro 3D Shrimp Shell in XXSmall clear on pink base. The shrimp is weighted with a small tungsten shrimp weight. The legs are made out of CDC, the antennas are Whiting Rooster Spey Hackles. It’s not a really a complicated pattern and I’ll tie some more in different colors for my seatrout fishing in the Baltic Sea.

The Soft Brown Grizzly

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Another all around seatrout fly. This pattern is inspired by the famous fly „Omøborsten“. This fly is mainly tied out of soft Keough grizzly saltwater hackles, which pulsate strongly in the water. I made a little video at the end of the tutorial, where you can get a slightly impression, how the fly mowes in the water.

Materials:

  • Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 6
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Tail: Dubbing & Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Body: SLF Dubbing & SLF Prism Dubbing, Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Front: Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
  • Hot Spot: Fluo Thread

 

Wind the lead wire around the front part of the hook and secure it with super glue. Then create a little dubbing ball at the end of the fly.

 

Tie in a really big and soft hackle.

 

Wind the hackle around the hook shank.

 

Tie in some pheasant tippets.

 

Tie in the mono for ribbing. Then split the thread, put the dubbing in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the thread and the dubbing. Wind the Dubbing around the shank.

 

Tie in another hackle…

 

…wind it towards the end of the fly. Secure the hackle by ribbing the it with the mono. Then brush the body, so the dubbing strands are mixed with the hackle fibres.

 

Tie in another big hackle at the front. This big front hackle pushes the water and creates much turbulance.

 

Create a nice little hot spot with your fluo thread and varnish it. That’s it!

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

click to play the video[vimeo]http://vimeo.com/36655237[/vimeo]

Golden CDC Seatrout Fly

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Most people use CDC for all kinds of dry flies, but it’s a good material for streamer or for example shrimp pattern, because of the movement under water.

This is an easy pattern, which works really great for seatrout, especially when you’ve got sunny, calm weather. Works well for the baltic garfish too.

This fly doesn’t immitate a specific animal, it just looks like food for the seatrout. A little bit like a shrimp, a small baitfish or a mysis.

Materials:

  • Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 10
  • Tail: golden CDC and 2 fibre Micro Chrystal Flash
  • Ribbing: Mono 0,14mm
  • Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing Pearl and Ginger
  • Body and Front Hackle: golden CDC
  • Weight: Lead Wire

 

Wind thin lead wire around the front part of the hook shank.

 

Use some CDC fibres for the tail.

 

Add two fibres of Micro Chrystal Flash.

 

Tie in some mono for ribbing. It’s imortant to fold the mono back and catch it with the thread, so it can’t slip when pulling tight for the ribbing.

 

 

 

SLF Saltwater Dubbing in Pearl and Ginger before mixing

 

Mixed dubbing.

 

Split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap.

 

Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing.

 

The first part should be 3/5 of the shank.

 

Bring the thread to the front.

 

Again, split the thread, put the dubbing between…

 

… and dub from the front backwards to the beginning of the already dubbed body.

 

Split the thread and put CDC fibres in the gap. To prepare the CDC i like to use the Marc Petitjean Magic Tool.

 

Spin the bobbin to twist the CDC.

 

Wind the CDC to the eye of the hook, whip finish, brush the whole fly with a toothbrush and varnish the head. The fly is finished.

 

I tried to show you how the fly looks in the water. The SLF becomes semi-transparent. Together with the CDC looks the fly like it’s alive and yummy.

tight lines                                                                                                                   Holger Lachmann

Tangloppen

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I like to use a dubbing mix made out of some nice dubbings. Choose whatever you want. One part of the dubbing should be a little bit spiky.

 

Mix the dubbings together. Here’s my result.

 

Other materials I use for the Tangloppen (scud in the baltic sea).

 

Tie in the short marabou tail. Most common hook sizes are # 12 – #8.

 

Tie in the mono ribbing and the body stretch.

 

Dub the body.

 

Turn over the body stretch and catch it with the thread next to the hook eye.

 

Rib the body with the mono.

 

Tie in the antennas, make a whip finish and varnish the head. At least brush the dubbing body with a velcro brush to imitate the little legs. Voilà! A nice little easy to tie Tangloppen. Sometimes this small fly is really, really good for seatrout.

I like my Tangloppen unweighted, so I can fish it very slowly and in really shallow water over beds of seaweed.

I posted this step by step instruction already on my Facebook page, but I think it’s an important pattern for seatrout, so it should be part of the blog.