Wet Fly „Struppi“

I’m not a wet fly guy. If I remember right, I fished wet flies less than 10 times in more than 20 years of fly fishing. I don’t know why, but it was not „my style“. I prefered more natural looking patterns like CDC dries, nymphs and emerger. I know, that wet flies are catching a lot of fish and some also imitate insects like stillborns or drowning duns, but…. I just don’t like to fish them. That’s also the reason, why I don’t have much experience in tying wet flies. I tied less than 12 classical wet flies in my life.

This year I’ll promised myself to give them more often a chance. That means, that I have also to learn to tie them. Most important, I have to know the materials, especially the feathers for the wings and how they react, when you tie them in.

„Struppi“ is one of the first wet flies. It’s kind a freestyle march brown. It’s not a „pretty“ fly, but looks very fishy. I mixed a little bit of Ice Dub into the Hare’s Ear Dubbing and so there are some light reflexes in the body. I ribbed it with mono and the tail and the front hackle is made from partridge. For the wing, I’ve used mottled turkey. As hook I choosed a Kamasan B 405 # 12.

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Struppi

 

Orange Struppi

Orange Struppi

Yellow Struppi

 

Easy Caddis Larva

That is a simple weighted Caddis Larva. Not too many materials, just a few tying steps and no expensive materials. Just a good fishing fly.

Materials:

  • Hook: Gamakatsu F22 #10
  • Thread: Uni 8/0 Black
  • Weight: Lead Wire
  • Tail: Natural CDC
  • Ribbing: Mono
  • Back: Stretch Flex Clear
  • Dubbing: Abdomen Hare’s Ear mixed with Ice Dub, Thorax Peacock Dubbing Brown
  • Coloration: Marker Pens

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Dry Fly # 14

Materials:

  • Hook: Maruto D82BL # 14
  • Tail: Coq de Leon
  • Body: SLF Master Class Dubbing Dark Damsel Nymph
  • Hackle: Whiting Rooster Cape Dun
  • Wing: CDC Tan
  • Thread: Uni 8/0 Black

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X-Mas flies

Used some quiet hours for some tying of nymphs for my fishing in the next year.

Materials:

  • Maruto C47 BL #14
  • Small tungsten beads in copper and black nickel
  • Coq de Leon for the tails
  • Copper wire and mono for the ribbing
  • Pheasant for the abdomen
  • Peacock dubbing brown for the thorax
  • Pheasant for the wing case
  • Partridge for the legs
  • Bug Bond Lite to secure the wing case and the thread

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Bread and Butter

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Good things are often very simple. Like these small nymphs tied on a short shank hook. The body length without the bead is 5mm. Even this are small nymphs, the hook gap is pretty big, so the hooking quality is still good. You can fish the nymphs very deep and you don’t have to be afraid of loosing them, because if you do so, you can tie some new ones in a short time.

Sparkle Mayfly

Sparkle Mayfly. Wings are two colors of CDC (natural and white from Trout Line) with a few strands of very thin flash. There’s a little sparkle in the wings. It’s hard to show that on the picture, in reality, it’s looks very posh! Thorax is normal dubbing, wingcase is made from pheasant and the body is made with Polish Quills, secured with Bug Bond. Tails are synthetic Mayfly Tails. For the hook I’ve used a D23BL # 14 from Trout Line.

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Caddis Pupa with Tungsten Bead

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This is a little Caddis Pupa weighted with a tungsten bead as a head. The abdomen is made with thread, green Polish Quills and Bug Bond uv resin. Pheasant as wing case, also secured with Bug Bond, dubbing and some fibres from a partridge feather as legs. Very simple, but a good fishing fly.

Fly Tier’s Little Helper – Part 2 – Hackle Pliers

There are a lot of tools for the fly tier on the market. Some are good, some are useless, some are expensive but worth the money, some are cheap and still super usefull.

I used a lot of different tools and gimmicks in the last 20 years, and in this series I want to show things, which worked well for me and I’ll try to tell you why.

Part 2

Every fly tier needs a good hackle plier. You can find a lot of different pliers on the market. This are the two types I can highly recommend.

1. Dorin Hackle Plier

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You can buy it normally for less than 5,- €. It works great and has a lot of power holding different materials. I use it often, when I have to tie with a high strength, especially ribbing with mono. Just wind the mono two times around the wire. The only negative point for me is, that my finger does not fit into the loop of wire.

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This is the Dorin hackle pliers I use. It looks a bit shabby, but it’s over 13 years old.

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From time to time the plastic tubing is damaged and the materials begin to slip. To solve the problem is very easy.

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Just push the tube over the edge and cut it. Now it works like brand new. You can see, that it’s not necessary to do it often. Like I said, the one on the picture is more then 13 years old and it was used very often. There is still some tubing left. ;-)

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Here is the expensive one. C&F hackle plier. About 30,- € for the cheapest model. Well, a lot of money, but it’s worth every cent. It works perfect as an all around hackle plier. You can tie with it many years and it still works like on day one. The rubber pads are missing on mine, but that’s no problem. Still working great.

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The secret of success. The tip is rough in a microscopic way. Hackles, feathers and synthetics are hold very well.

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This is the rotary version of the C&F, which I sometimes like to use when tying smaller patterns.

Well, that’s it! My two cent on hackle pliers. These are the pliers I use since many, many years without any problems. Still working perfect.

Fly Tier’s Little Helper – Part 1 – Bug Bond Pro Light Mains Adapter

There are a lot of tools for the fly tier on the market. Some are good, some are useless, some are expensive but worth the money, some are cheap and still super usefull.

I used a lot of different tools and gimmicks in the last 20 years, and in this series I want to show things, which worked well for me and I’ll try to tell you why.

I begin with something very special, the Bug Bond Pro Light Mains Adapter.

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When you look at my flies, you’ll see that I work a lot with uv resin. No matter if I tie dries and nymphs or streamer and flies for pike, seatrout, asp, …

Working with uv resin means, you have to use a uv torch with maximun battery power to harden the resin. I often saw people using a torch with low power, wondering, why the resin won’t cure like it should.

Bug Bond offers a nice solution for the power problem: An adapter for your pro torch to connect it with your power supply at home. You just have to screw the adapter into the torch and you have a super strong uv torch every time.

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To connect the adapter with the torch, you have to screw off the switch at the end.

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Maybe you’re asking yourself how to switch on the torch without the switch at the end? With the Kit comes a solid foot switch like you know them from sewing machines. Just put your foot on the pedal and the torch will do it’s job.

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The torch is always hanging from on of my lamps on my tying desk ready for some action.

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I f you like to use uv resin for your tying, then I can recommend you the Mains Adapter. It’s super nice to use, you got always maximum curing power and you don’t have to care about the batteries.

I use the Adapter now several months and I don’t want to miss it.