Easy Pike Zonker Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 23/10/2012 von Holger Lachmann

One of my most fished patterns for pike. It’s easy to tie, very durable, you can tie it in the length you want and it wiggles nice through the water. You can also use arctic fox for the front collar instead of finn raccoon. Works well, too.

Materials:

Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 1/0
Ribbing: Mono
Body: Ice Dub Holographic Silver and Ice Dub Pearl mixed together
Wing/Tail: Finn Raccoon
Flash: Gliss’n Glow Pearl, Krinkle Mirror Flash Pearl and Lateral Scale Pearl
Front Collar: Finn Raccoon or Arctic Fox
Hot Point: Fluo Thread
Eyes: Deer Creek
Head: Bug Bond

Tie in a piece of mono for the ribbing and mix ice dub pearl and ice dub holographic silver. Then split the thread and put the dubbing mix into the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing. Wind the dubbing hank around the hook shank and give it a good brush with your velcro.

Tie in a piece of finn raccoon zonker 5mm next to the hook eye. Then ribb the raccoon zonker with the mono to secure it on the hook shank and catch the mono with your thread.

Tie in the krinkle mirror flash and the gliss’n glow. Then form a loop with your thread and wax the loop. Put a piece of finn raccoon in the loop and cut away the leather. Twist the loop with the raccoon slowly. When the fur is secured in the loop, wind the raccoon around the shank to the hook eye. Comb the twisted raccoon after every turn.

Tie in a strand of lateral scale pearl on each side and split the thread. Put again some dubbing in the gap und twist the bobbin Wind the twisted dubbing around and brush it with your velcro to give the head some extra sparcle.

If you like it, you can do a little hot point with some fluo thread. Glue some sexy eyes on the head and secure the head with Bug Bond.

Ready for pike!

tl Holger Lachmann

Articulated Pike Streamer Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 22/10/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Antworten

Here’s an example for an articulated pike streamer, which is easy to cast, because we try to create volume without putting to much material into the fly. To much material makes the just inflexible (and expensive ;-) )

I used for this pattern the new articulated shanks from the Flymen Fishing Co. in 35mm to get the right movement and position of the hook.

Material:

Hook: Gamakatsu SL 12 S # 4/0 (be carefull, they are soooooo sharp!)
Articulated Shank: 35mm from Flymen Fishing Co.
Tail and Wing: Arctic Fox chartreuse and black
Feather: Green Grizzly Hackle
Body: Ice Dub Pearl
Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash pearl and Flashabou Mirage Saltwater
Eyes: Hareline fluo yellow
UV-Resin: Bug Bond

Put the hook into the vise, do some turns with your thread and tie in the fox as tail and some strands Flashabou Mirage.

Split your tying thread or form a dubbing loop and put the ice dub between and twist it. Then brush it with your velcro and wind it around the hook shank.

Tie in some fox with the tips pointing to the hook eye, cut the waste, put again some dubbing between the thread, twist it and wind it to the front. Then go with the thread between the fox hair to the hook eye.

Push the fox hair with an empty pen towards the hook bend. Then tie in a green grizzly hackle on each side and some strands of krinkle mirror flash. Whip finish and secure with super glue.

Attach the hook with the articulated shank and put the shank into your vise. Then close the gap with a strong thread and super glue (the little pearls on the thread) to fix the hook. This will hold forever!

Create another dubbing hank and wind it around to create a little bump. Then tie in a bunch of artic fox on the hook shank and a bunch underneath. Comb the hair carefully. Another dubbing hank will follow.

Tie in two green grizzy hackles and some krinkle mirror flash. Then comb a bunch of black arctic fox and tie it in like shown on the picture. Trim away the waste and do some rounds with dubbing and do a quick whip finish secured with super glue.

Push the black fox backwards, attach the eyes and secure the whole head with Bug Bond.

That’s it! Ready to go. Have fun with the pikes!

Holger Lachmann

Poxy-Fox

Veröffentlicht am 18/08/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Antworten

When I first tied this pattern, I used epoxy for it. That’s why there’s „Poxy“ in the name of the fly. Today I use uv-resin for it, but I didn’t wanted to chance the name. ;-)

When you tie this pattern, it’s very important, that the resin soaks into the braid at the end of the fly to fix the marble fox, so it won’t tangle around the hook bend while casting. The materials used are:

Gamakatsu F314 # 2
Mono thread
3D Eyes
Marble Fox olive
Krinkle Mirror Flash
Ice Dub golden olive
Felix Cord olive
Permanent Markers
UV-Resin

You can also tie in some lead wire if you want, to create a jigging effect for example.

The Poxy-Fox looks really massive on the picture, but in the water it got some translucency. That’s the reason, why you should dub a thin body before slipping the flexi cord around the hook shank.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Fleye Foil Fox Candy – Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 15/08/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Antworten

Here’s a Surf Candy style pattern tied with the new Fleye Foils by Bob Popovics. The tail made out of arctic fox wiggles nice in the water. Much better than most synthetics. It’s not just a battern for the saltwater fisherman, you can also fish it in freshwater. Small sizes for trout and char for example, bigger ones for asp. Just give it a try.

Materials:

Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
Thread: Mono
Tail: Arctic Fox
Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash Pearl
Body: Senyo’s Laser Dub, Bob Popovics‘ Fleye Foils „Silverside“ and uv-resin

Tie in the arctic fox as tail and 3 strands of krinkle mirror flash, one on each side and one on top.

3mm in front of the fox, tie in a bunch of white senyo’s laser dub on the top of the hook shank and one underneath.

Do the same with a bunch of laser dub holographic minnow belly 3 mm infront of the white dub.

Now, pick two colors of laser dub of your liking, here it’s light olive and shrimp pink, and tie it in like you see above.

Pull the laser dub backwards, that’s how you put a bit of volume to the head, otherwise it won’t fit to the shape of the foil.

Put a foil on each side. Just tie in the little „nose“ of the foil with a couple of turns and whip finish the fly.

Pull the laser dub and the foils backwards and start to apply the uv resin on the body. The resin should soak into the dubbing, that gives the fly later some translucency. Mostly it’s easier to applicate two layers of uv resin. You got much more control of everything.

If you don’t use a tackfree uv resin, put a thin coating of nail varnish on the uv resin to get a tackfree glossy finish.

That’s it! Ready for fishing!

Holger Lachmann

A closer look at: Bob Popovics‘ Fleye Foils

Veröffentlicht am 14/08/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Lutz Schepers from www.theflypeople.com asked me some weeks ago, if I wanted to test the new Fleye Foils by Bob Popovics. I always liked the flies and ideas of Bob Popovics, so I surely wanted to test his newest idea. The foils imitate the eyes, the gills, the silver belly and flanks on one side of the fly with just one simple tying step.

I don’t know the reason why, but when I got the foils, I didn’t felt the inner drive to test them immediately. Maybe I didn’t wanted to do the normal Sury Candy with it.

This morning, I did the first tests with the smallest „Bay Anchovy“ foils. The fly you see below is the first try. It’s a really simple fly made out of a hook, mono thread, different colors of Senyo’s Laser Dub, Fleye Foils and uv resin. It doesn’t look to shabby for a first try, I think.

The Fleye Foils are easy to use. You just have to tie in the „nose“ next to the hook eye and push the sticky backsides of the foils against the flanks of the fly. One or two coatings of uv resin and you are done.

After tying some patterns with Fleye Foils, I have to say, that if you want to make Surf Candy-style flies as fast and easy as possible, the foils are an enrichment. The only thing I would suggest to improve is, to give more expression to the eyes.

tl Holger Lachmann

Mini Sculpin Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 23/05/2012 von Holger Lachmann

I was invited to tie at the Dutch Fly Fair last weekend. A small Mini Sculpin pattern was lying on my desk in front of me while tying. It was less then 5 cm long. A lot of people liked it, especially Walter Bayer from Ireland (great flytyer) and Roger Enger Lie (great caster) from Norway and I had to promise to them, that I will do a step by step tutorial of this little guy.

So guys, this one is for you! ;-)

Material:

Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 4
Weight: Tungsten Bead
Tail: Pine Squirrel Zonker
Pectoral Fins: Pine Squirrel Zonker
Head: Senyo’s Laser Dub
Eyes: 3-D Eyes

Put a tungsten bead on the hook.

Tie in a piece of pine squirrel zonker as a tail.

Put some pine squirrel hair in the clamp, then split the thread and put the hair in the gap.

Rotate the bobbin to twist the hair and the thread. Put a litlle bit of water on the hair, so it’s easier to wrap it around the hook shank.

Tie in bunches of Senyo’s Laser Dub. Remember, this is a up side down pattern, so tie in the bright color on top of the fly and the dark color underneath. You can create different shades by using different colors. Finish the tying with a whip finish behind the tungsten bead.

Now, start the cutting to create a sculpin head. The easiest way is to begin with the flat underside.

Before the cutting is finished, use some superglue to fix the 3-D eyes on top of the sculpin head and press the eyes into the Laser Dub to give the head strength. Now, you can do the final cutting.

That’s it! A small sculpin which swims down on the bottom of the river, because of the tungsten bead.

Note: Please press down the barb of the hook! Trouts will take the sculpin very aggressively!

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

PAPS – Pink Articulated Pike Streamer

Veröffentlicht am 16/05/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Sometimes it is just fun to tie such kind of a monster fly. This pike streamer with a length of 27 cm is articulated to give the fly the maximum of flexibility.There is just one hook in the middle of the fly.

It’s a combination of natural hair and feathers together with synthetics, which creates a big shape and the effect of mass without being to heavy when wet. It’s still possible to cast it with a 8 weight + rod and a pike taper line or a shooting head.

Asp Streamer Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 09/05/2012 von Holger Lachmann

The asp is a fun fish for the fly rod. I got some friends, who are really go nuts, when the weather gets warmer and the asp starts to splash through the surface while hunting for baitfish.

The best fly colour for asp is white, so a white 3-D baitfish imitation works well for them. You need to put some weight into the fly, because often you fish in fast water for asp and you don’t want the baitfish pattern to flip over the surface instead of swinging some centimeters below it.

Arctic fox moves fantastic in the water, but you got often the problem, that the hair tangles around the hook while casting. You can avoid this by puting some uv resin on the fox near the hook to make it stiff. That’s an easy way to create a tangle-free fox fly.

Material:

Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
Weight: Lead Wire
Tail: Arctic Fox White
Flash: Electra Scale Pearl
Body: Hareline Ice Dub Minnow Belly
Head: Hareline Senyos Laser Dub
Eyes: Deer Creek
UV-Resin: Deer Creek Diamond Hard Tack Free

Wind some lead around the hook shank and secure it with super glue.

Tie in some arctic fox and some strands of electra scale on each side. Secure the fox with uv resin next to the hook and cure it with the uv torch.

Make a loop with your tying thread and put some ice dub in the gap. Twist the loop with your dubbing twister and brush the dubbing with your velcro brush to create a fluffy dubbing strand.

Wind the twisted dubbing around the hook shank and brush it again.

Tie in some laser dub on the top and on the bottom like shown on the picture.

Put some eyes on each side of the fly by using super glue and paint some gills on each side with a permanent marker.

On the first picture, you can see how nice all the materials look, when wet.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Grey Magnus Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 14/04/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Antworten

This pattern is so famous….no more words about it, let’s start tying! ;-)

Materials:

Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
Tail: Grey Grizzly Marabou / Chrystal Flash Pearl
Ribbing: Mono
Body: Hare’e Ice Dub Hare’s Ear from Hareline / Grizzly Hackle
Front Hackle: Dun Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
Eyes: Bead Chain Eyes

Do a layer of thread on the hook shank and tie in the grizzly marabou as a tail.

Tie in two strands of pearl crystal flash on each side of the marabou and fix the mono for the ribbing.

Spin some dubbing around the thread and dub the body. Don’t dub the body to tight, because we want to brush it later.

Tie in a smaler grizzly hackle and wind the hackle from the front to the back around the dubbing body. Rib the dubbing body and the hackle turns with the mono from the back to the front and catch the mono with your tying thread. Give the body a nice brush with your velcro-brush.

Take a dun grizzly saltwater hackle and prepare it like shown on the picture. Tie it in and wind it around the hook to create the front hackle.

Take some bead chain eyes and tie them in. After some turns around the eyes, put a drop of super glue between the eyes to secure them, then keep winding the thread around the eyes. That’s how you create a strong bead chain head. If you fix the eyes with loose turns of thread, they will slip around the hook shank. That’s it, the Grey Magnus.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Some Magnus-Flies for the Seatrout-Flies gallery

Veröffentlicht am 13/04/2012 von Holger Lachmann

I added some pictures of different Magnus to the gallery. The Magnus is a very popular pattern for seatrout in the Baltic Sea, especially the Polar-Magnus in the winter time.

A ‚must have‘ in every fly box of a coastal fishermen. I’m sure it will work for other fish species, too.

Polar Magnus

Olive Magnus

Brown Magnus

A closer look at: Fish Skull by Flymen Fishing Company

Veröffentlicht am 01/04/2012 von Holger Lachmann

I tie and fish with Fish Skulls since fall 2011 now. When I first saw them, I wasn’t really sure if I like them or not. They looked very massiv and heavy. I thought they were to heavy for my kind of fishing. I was wrong.

The Fish Skulls are not made out of tungsten or brass like other metal heads on the market, they are made out of aluminum.The weight of the aluminum is big enough to give the fly a nice jigging effect and bring ít down to the fish, but light enough for easy casting.

You can buy them in different sizes. For my fishing, the small Fish Skulls work great with wide gap hooks like Gamakatsu F 314 # 6 or #4.

The biggest weight of the Fish Skulls is on the lower part, which works like a keel, so the fly always swims straight. That’s the reason, why it’s really easy to tie up side down patterns, just switch the head.

Every package contains 10 Fish Skulls and the eyes, which you just fix with a small spot of super glue on each side. I like to „pimp“ the Fish Skulls with other eyes, like fluo eyes.

It’s easy to tie with the Fish Skulls. Just tie your fly and leave a little space next to the hook eye. Apply a drop of super glue and slip the Fish Skull of the hook eye on the fly. You can create a little „thread dam“ between the Fish Skull and the hook eye, but I think you don’t have to, because the super glue will secure the Fish Skull really tight. Sometimes I like to give the fly a hot spot by using fluo thread for the „thread dam“.

As you already know, I’m a really big fan of zonker stripes, so the first try with Fish Skulls where the combination of zonker stripes and Fish Skulls and it works perfect! I fish them since then in this combination.

I haven’t used the Fish Skulls for seatrout fishing in the Baltic Sea yet, but I think they will work there as good as for my freshwater fishing.

In my opinion, the Fish Skulls are worth to give them a try.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Zonker-Fish step by step

Veröffentlicht am 06/03/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Zonker stripes are one of my favorite materials for tying streamers. The Zonker-Fish is a really simple pattern made out of a zonker stripe, which is very durable and, most important, it catches fish.

You can find a lot of color examples in my photo album Streamers.

Materials:

Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
Weight: Lead
Ribbing: Mono
Body: Flash Dubbing
Wing: Zonker Stripe
Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
Head: Flash Dubbing, Clear Cure Goo
Eyes: Clear Cure Eyes Solar Flare

Wind on some lead wire and secure it with super glue.

Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing.

Mix two colors of flash dubbing.

Split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap. Then spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing.

Wind the dubbing around the hook shank and brush it with your velcro brush.

Tie in a zonker stripe at the front and rib it with the mono from the back to the front.

Tie in a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and form a little head with flash dubbing.

Use some super glue for fixing the Clear Cure Eyes on each side and fill the space between the eyes on top and bottom with Clear Cure Goo to create a durable head.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Wiggle Fox step by step

Veröffentlicht am 27/01/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Material:

Hooks: Gamakatsu F 314 # 6
Tail: Fox Tail Hair
Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing, SLF Prism Dubbing and a Hackle
Ribbing: Mono
Weight: Tungsten Bead or Lead Wire
Optional: 3 D Eyes secured with UV-Resin

Put a hook in the vise and tie in some fox tail hair. Put a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and tie it in.

Mix the dubbing. I used SLF Saltwater Dub in pearl and ginger and a little bit of SLF Prism dub.

Tie in the mono for ribbing, split the thread, put the dubbing in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.

Wind around the dubbing, tie in a hackle next to the hook eye and wind it backwards, then wind the ribbing to the front to secure the hackle. Catch the ribbing and do a whip finish. Use a velcro brush to comb the fly.

Cut the hook bend.

Put another hook in the vise and wind some lead wire on the front of the hook.

Tie in a piece of mono for the connection between the two pieces.

Connect the two pieces like above. Use super glue to fix everything.

Tie in another piece of mono for ribbing, then split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and wind it around to the front.

Wind around a hackle and rib it with mono like you’ve done with the first section.

You can finish the fly or dub a little head, put some 3 D eyes on each side and secure them with uv-resin.

tl Holger Lachmann

Golden CDC Seatrout Fly

Veröffentlicht am 22/01/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Antworten

Most people use CDC for all kinds of dry flies, but it’s a good material for streamer or for example shrimp pattern, because of the movement under water.

This is an easy pattern, which works really great for seatrout, especially when you’ve got sunny, calm weather. Works well for the baltic garfish too.

This fly doesn’t immitate a specific animal, it just looks like food for the seatrout. A little bit like a shrimp, a small baitfish or a mysis.

Materials: