Easy Pike Zonker Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 23/10/2012 von Holger Lachmann

One of my most fished patterns for pike. It’s easy to tie, very durable, you can tie it in the length you want and it wiggles nice through the water. You can also use arctic fox for the front collar instead of finn raccoon. Works well, too.

Materials:

Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 1/0
Ribbing: Mono
Body: Ice Dub Holographic Silver and Ice Dub Pearl mixed together
Wing/Tail: Finn Raccoon
Flash: Gliss’n Glow Pearl, Krinkle Mirror Flash Pearl and Lateral Scale Pearl
Front Collar: Finn Raccoon or Arctic Fox
Hot Point: Fluo Thread
Eyes: Deer Creek
Head: Bug Bond

Tie in a piece of mono for the ribbing and mix ice dub pearl and ice dub holographic silver. Then split the thread and put the dubbing mix into the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing. Wind the dubbing hank around the hook shank and give it a good brush with your velcro.

Tie in a piece of finn raccoon zonker 5mm next to the hook eye. Then ribb the raccoon zonker with the mono to secure it on the hook shank and catch the mono with your thread.

Tie in the krinkle mirror flash and the gliss’n glow. Then form a loop with your thread and wax the loop. Put a piece of finn raccoon in the loop and cut away the leather. Twist the loop with the raccoon slowly. When the fur is secured in the loop, wind the raccoon around the shank to the hook eye. Comb the twisted raccoon after every turn.

Tie in a strand of lateral scale pearl on each side and split the thread. Put again some dubbing in the gap und twist the bobbin Wind the twisted dubbing around and brush it with your velcro to give the head some extra sparcle.

If you like it, you can do a little hot point with some fluo thread. Glue some sexy eyes on the head and secure the head with Bug Bond.

Ready for pike!

tl Holger Lachmann

Fleye Foil Fox Candy – Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 15/08/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Antworten

Here’s a Surf Candy style pattern tied with the new Fleye Foils by Bob Popovics. The tail made out of arctic fox wiggles nice in the water. Much better than most synthetics. It’s not just a battern for the saltwater fisherman, you can also fish it in freshwater. Small sizes for trout and char for example, bigger ones for asp. Just give it a try.

Materials:

Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
Thread: Mono
Tail: Arctic Fox
Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash Pearl
Body: Senyo’s Laser Dub, Bob Popovics‘ Fleye Foils „Silverside“ and uv-resin

Tie in the arctic fox as tail and 3 strands of krinkle mirror flash, one on each side and one on top.

3mm in front of the fox, tie in a bunch of white senyo’s laser dub on the top of the hook shank and one underneath.

Do the same with a bunch of laser dub holographic minnow belly 3 mm infront of the white dub.

Now, pick two colors of laser dub of your liking, here it’s light olive and shrimp pink, and tie it in like you see above.

Pull the laser dub backwards, that’s how you put a bit of volume to the head, otherwise it won’t fit to the shape of the foil.

Put a foil on each side. Just tie in the little „nose“ of the foil with a couple of turns and whip finish the fly.

Pull the laser dub and the foils backwards and start to apply the uv resin on the body. The resin should soak into the dubbing, that gives the fly later some translucency. Mostly it’s easier to applicate two layers of uv resin. You got much more control of everything.

If you don’t use a tackfree uv resin, put a thin coating of nail varnish on the uv resin to get a tackfree glossy finish.

That’s it! Ready for fishing!

Holger Lachmann

A closer look at: Bob Popovics‘ Fleye Foils

Veröffentlicht am 14/08/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Lutz Schepers from www.theflypeople.com asked me some weeks ago, if I wanted to test the new Fleye Foils by Bob Popovics. I always liked the flies and ideas of Bob Popovics, so I surely wanted to test his newest idea. The foils imitate the eyes, the gills, the silver belly and flanks on one side of the fly with just one simple tying step.

I don’t know the reason why, but when I got the foils, I didn’t felt the inner drive to test them immediately. Maybe I didn’t wanted to do the normal Sury Candy with it.

This morning, I did the first tests with the smallest „Bay Anchovy“ foils. The fly you see below is the first try. It’s a really simple fly made out of a hook, mono thread, different colors of Senyo’s Laser Dub, Fleye Foils and uv resin. It doesn’t look to shabby for a first try, I think.

The Fleye Foils are easy to use. You just have to tie in the „nose“ next to the hook eye and push the sticky backsides of the foils against the flanks of the fly. One or two coatings of uv resin and you are done.

After tying some patterns with Fleye Foils, I have to say, that if you want to make Surf Candy-style flies as fast and easy as possible, the foils are an enrichment. The only thing I would suggest to improve is, to give more expression to the eyes.

tl Holger Lachmann

Quill Body CDC Emerger No. 2 – Step By Step

Veröffentlicht am 21/04/2012 von Holger Lachmann

It’s the end of April and the trout and grayling season will start soon.

Here’s another very good emerger pattern, which imitates some different may fly species, depending on the colour and size. It’s tied on the new Daiichi 1167 Klinkhamer hook, designed by the famous dutch fly tyer Hans van Klinken.

The Daiichi 1167 got a stronger wire compared to the Tiemco 212Y for example, which makes sure, that the abdomen hangs deep in the surface. That’s really important and that’s the reason, why this pattern got no tail or a trailing shuck, to make sure, that the abdomen is hanging deep in the surface.

The quill body is covered with a thin coating UV Resin.

Materials:

Hook: Daiichi 1167 # 14
Abdomen: Polish Quills &Tack Free UV Resin
Thorax: Oliver Edwards Master Class Dubbing
Wing case: CDC
Wing: CDC
Legs: Partridge

Put the hook into the vise, do a layer of thread and tie in a stripped peacock quill. Wind the quill around the hook shank and catch it with the tying thread.

Put a little drop of Tack Free UV Resin on the stripped peacock quill and spread it on the abdomen. Cure it with your UV torch.

Tie in two CDC feathers for the wing case. Then tie in the tip of another white CDC feather as a crippled wing.

Dub the body and tie in some partridge fibres to imitate the legs. Fold each CDC feather to the hook eye and catch it with the tying thread. The CDC wing should be exactly in the middle of the feathers.

Cut the CDC feathers for the wing case and do some turns with your whip finisher to create a little head. Varnish the head, if you like. That’s it, ready for fishing. ;-)

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Matuka Streamer

Veröffentlicht am 19/02/2012 von Holger Lachmann

Here’s a step by step tutorial for a matuka streamer. This type of streamer is very old and you don’t see it to often in the fly boxes of the fishermen today, but the truth is, that the feathers move nicely, especially when you put some weight in the front of the fly, which causes a jigging effect.

Materials:

Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
Feathers: Keough Saltwater Grizzly Hackle, Keough Saltwater Hackle
Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing white and ginger
Eyes: Deer Creek Gator Eyes
Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
UV-Resin: Deer Creek Diamond Hard Tack Free Resin
Weight: Lead Wire
Ribbing: Mono

Wind some lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.

Create a little dubbing ball at the end of the hook shank, tie in a saltwater hackle and wind it around. The dubbing ball pushes the fibres to the sides.

Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing. Split the tying thread and put the dubbing mix in the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing. Wind the dubbing around the hook shank and brush it with your velcro .

Take two feathers and pull some fibres from one side as shown on the photo. Tie in the feather at the front and secure them by ribbing them with the mono. Catch the ribbing with your thread.

Tie in some strands of krinkle mirror on each side and do a whip finish with your thread. Take two gator eyes and put them on each side. You should use super glue to secure them. The fly is nearly finished. Just take some Diamond Hard Tack Free resin and let it run between the eyes, then cure it with your uv torch. Repeat this till the gap between the eyes is filled. This makes the fly very strong and durable.

tight lines

Holger Lachmann