„Pissed Off Shrimps“ hangin‘ around
Antworten
Schlagwort-Archive: Seatrout
Pissed Off Shrimp
I tied a smaller shrimp on a Partridge CS 54 # 8, using the Pro 3D Shrimp Shell in XXSmall clear on pink base. The shrimp is weighted with a small tungsten shrimp weight. The legs are made out of CDC, the antennas are Whiting Rooster Spey Hackles. It’s not a really a complicated pattern and I’ll tie some more in different colors for my seatrout fishing in the Baltic Sea.
New Zonker Muddler
This a kind of pimped Muddler Minnow. I use a piece of zonker stripe for the tail, some fancy dubbing mixed with flash dubbing, krinkle flash, a deer hair muddler head, funky eyes and and a heavy tungsten bead to get it down to the predators. One of my absolut favorite streamer pattern for trout and seatrout!
Poxy-Fox
When I first tied this pattern, I used epoxy for it. That’s why there’s „Poxy“ in the name of the fly. Today I use uv-resin for it, but I didn’t wanted to chance the name. ;-)
When you tie this pattern, it’s very important, that the resin soaks into the braid at the end of the fly to fix the marble fox, so it won’t tangle around the hook bend while casting. The materials used are:
- Gamakatsu F314 # 2
- Mono thread
- 3D Eyes
- Marble Fox olive
- Krinkle Mirror Flash
- Ice Dub golden olive
- Felix Cord olive
- Permanent Markers
- UV-Resin
You can also tie in some lead wire if you want, to create a jigging effect for example.
The Poxy-Fox looks really massive on the picture, but in the water it got some translucency. That’s the reason, why you should dub a thin body before slipping the flexi cord around the hook shank.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Baltic Candy Step by Step
Everybody knows Bob Popovics‘ famous Surf Candy. A really great pattern to imitate bait fish and sandeels. I always loved this pattern. The only thing I didn’t like was the stiff material, which is used for it. For my seatrout fishing in the Baltic sea, I wanted the pattern to move more like the real sandeel.
I was always a fan of soft materials, so I tried polar fibre which looks fantastic underwater and moves really nice. The big problem: It was wrapping around the hook bend while casting, which was annoying. The solution was to expand the epoxy body behind the hook bend. This prevents the tangling extremely well.
Another important feature is the weight in the front of the fly which causes a strong jigging effect. The natural behavior of a sandeel when chased by a predator is that it swims as fast as it can to the bottom to hide in the sand. The jigging effect imitate this behavior.
I think I tied now over 1000 Baltic Candies and they changed a lot over the last years. The first years I used 5minute epoxy for the body and I developed some tricks to build a perfect smooth body without a lot of efforts. I showed these tricks at a lot of fairs in the last years and there was always an „Aaah!“-effect for the audience and even for some of the other tiers, but I wouldn’t tell you the tricks! ;-)
Why? The answer is quite simple. I don’t use epoxy anymore. I was annoyed by the yellowing of the epoxy after some months. It doesn’t matter which epoxy brand you are using, everything turns yellow! You don’t tie a BC in 5 minutes, that’s for sure, so it’s hard to see your with love tied flies turning yellow. The other important point is, that epoxy is very unhealthy. So I changed to uv-resin, which means all my nice epoxy tricks were useless….but that was not to bad, because working with uv-resin is quite easy, especially when you are working with „tackfree“-resin.
A Baltic Candy wet and dry
My Baltic Candies becomes smaller and thinner over the years, because of a lot of improvement. It’s harder for the fish to find out if it’s real food or not, when the fly looks a bit blurry in the water. Another advantage is, that a slim sandeel pattern with weight in the front flies through the air like a dart. Even with your hand you can throw a Baltic Candy several meters! Try this little experiment with a normal fly….you’ll see whats happened. ;-)
Bernd Ziesche with perfect baltic silver. You can see my Baltic Candy on the cork handle. ;-)
This sbs is for a „fully dressed“ Baltic Candy. You can use less flash if you prefer it. Personally I got Baltic Candies with different amounts of flash material.
Two important tips: First, strip the Baltic Candy really fast through the water with some stops. You could never, really never(!), strip the BC too fast. We could never reach the speed of a spin fishermen, so there is no „too fast“.
Secondly, it could happen that the polar fibre is a bit disarranged after you caught a fish. Just use a velcro on your jacket or vest as a comb to brush the BC.
At last, I have to thank my buddy Bernd Ziesche (great guide, superb casting instructor and owner of the fly fishing school www.first-cast.de) for his tests and comments over the years!
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 2 or 1
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Body: Twisted Flash silver/pearl
- Bite Point: UV-Thread orange
- Wing: Polar Fibre (white, misty blue, olive), Angel-Hair holographic-silver
- Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash pearl
- Eyes: Stick-On-Eyes
- UV-Resin: Bug Bond
- Thread: Uni-Mono
Wind the lead wire around the hook shank and secure it with super glue.
Tie in the twisted flash.
Twist the flash and wind it to the front and catch it with your thread.
Tie in a little hot bite point at the end of the shank.
Tie in a bunch of white polar fibre on the underside of the fly.
Tie in the angel-hair.
Tie in bunches of blue and olive polar fibre.
Tie in two strands of krinkle mirror flash on each side and do a whip finish.
Pull the fibres with your left hand and apply the Bug Bond and cure it with your uv-torch.
Put the stick-on eyes on each side and apply the second thin coating of Bug Bond. The Baltic Candy is tackfree and now ready for fishing. If you are a crazy fly tyer like myself, you apply a third quick coating of Bug Bond, which gives really a smooth high end finish („black“ photo)! ;)
That’s it, the Baltic Candy, my modified version of Bob Popovics‘ famous Surf Candy.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Grey Magnus Step By Step
This pattern is so famous….no more words about it, let’s start tying! ;-)
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
- Tail: Grey Grizzly Marabou / Chrystal Flash Pearl
- Ribbing: Mono
- Body: Hare’e Ice Dub Hare’s Ear from Hareline / Grizzly Hackle
- Front Hackle: Dun Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
- Eyes: Bead Chain Eyes
Do a layer of thread on the hook shank and tie in the grizzly marabou as a tail.
Tie in two strands of pearl crystal flash on each side of the marabou and fix the mono for the ribbing.
Spin some dubbing around the thread and dub the body. Don’t dub the body to tight, because we want to brush it later.
Tie in a smaler grizzly hackle and wind the hackle from the front to the back around the dubbing body. Rib the dubbing body and the hackle turns with the mono from the back to the front and catch the mono with your tying thread. Give the body a nice brush with your velcro-brush.
Take a dun grizzly saltwater hackle and prepare it like shown on the picture. Tie it in and wind it around the hook to create the front hackle.
Take some bead chain eyes and tie them in. After some turns around the eyes, put a drop of super glue between the eyes to secure them, then keep winding the thread around the eyes. That’s how you create a strong bead chain head. If you fix the eyes with loose turns of thread, they will slip around the hook shank. That’s it, the Grey Magnus.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Some Magnus-Flies for the Seatrout-Flies gallery
I added some pictures of different Magnus to the gallery. The Magnus is a very popular pattern for seatrout in the Baltic Sea, especially the Polar-Magnus in the winter time.
A ‚must have‘ in every fly box of a coastal fishermen. I’m sure it will work for other fish species, too.
Polar Magnus
Olive Magnus
Brown Magnus
Zonker-Fish step by step
Zonker stripes are one of my favorite materials for tying streamers. The Zonker-Fish is a really simple pattern made out of a zonker stripe, which is very durable and, most important, it catches fish.
You can find a lot of color examples in my photo album Streamers.
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
- Weight: Lead
- Ribbing: Mono
- Body: Flash Dubbing
- Wing: Zonker Stripe
- Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
- Head: Flash Dubbing, Clear Cure Goo
- Eyes: Clear Cure Eyes Solar Flare
Wind on some lead wire and secure it with super glue.
Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing.
Mix two colors of flash dubbing.
Split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap. Then spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing.
Wind the dubbing around the hook shank and brush it with your velcro brush.
Tie in a zonker stripe at the front and rib it with the mono from the back to the front.
Tie in a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and form a little head with flash dubbing.
Use some super glue for fixing the Clear Cure Eyes on each side and fill the space between the eyes on top and bottom with Clear Cure Goo to create a durable head.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Matuka Streamer
Here’s a step by step tutorial for a matuka streamer. This type of streamer is very old and you don’t see it to often in the fly boxes of the fishermen today, but the truth is, that the feathers move nicely, especially when you put some weight in the front of the fly, which causes a jigging effect.
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
- Feathers: Keough Saltwater Grizzly Hackle, Keough Saltwater Hackle
- Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing white and ginger
- Eyes: Deer Creek Gator Eyes
- Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
- UV-Resin: Deer Creek Diamond Hard Tack Free Resin
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Ribbing: Mono
Wind some lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.
Create a little dubbing ball at the end of the hook shank, tie in a saltwater hackle and wind it around. The dubbing ball pushes the fibres to the sides.
Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing. Split the tying thread and put the dubbing mix in the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing. Wind the dubbing around the hook shank and brush it with your velcro .
Take two feathers and pull some fibres from one side as shown on the photo. Tie in the feather at the front and secure them by ribbing them with the mono. Catch the ribbing with your thread.
Tie in some strands of krinkle mirror on each side and do a whip finish with your thread. Take two gator eyes and put them on each side. You should use super glue to secure them. The fly is nearly finished. Just take some Diamond Hard Tack Free resin and let it run between the eyes, then cure it with your uv torch. Repeat this till the gap between the eyes is filled. This makes the fly very strong and durable.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Cellphone Shrimp
Last night I wanted to tie a CDC-Shrimp. I’d just done the first few wraps with the tying thread, when my cell was ringing. My buddy Aik was calling. So, what to do? Stop tying? No way! :-) I clamped the cell between my ear and my shoulder and continued tying with this „special“ posture…. When I finished the telephone conversation, the fly was finished too, including the back with Clear Cure Goo.
To be honest, I was concentrated on the call and was wondering, that the fly looked no too bad either. I should always tie without thinking! :-D
The Soft Brown Grizzly
Another all around seatrout fly. This pattern is inspired by the famous fly „Omøborsten“. This fly is mainly tied out of soft Keough grizzly saltwater hackles, which pulsate strongly in the water. I made a little video at the end of the tutorial, where you can get a slightly impression, how the fly mowes in the water.
Materials:
- Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 6
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Tail: Dubbing & Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
- Ribbing: Mono
- Body: SLF Dubbing & SLF Prism Dubbing, Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
- Front: Keough Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
- Hot Spot: Fluo Thread
Wind the lead wire around the front part of the hook and secure it with super glue. Then create a little dubbing ball at the end of the fly.
Tie in a really big and soft hackle.
Wind the hackle around the hook shank.
Tie in some pheasant tippets.
Tie in the mono for ribbing. Then split the thread, put the dubbing in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the thread and the dubbing. Wind the Dubbing around the shank.
Tie in another hackle…
…wind it towards the end of the fly. Secure the hackle by ribbing the it with the mono. Then brush the body, so the dubbing strands are mixed with the hackle fibres.
Tie in another big hackle at the front. This big front hackle pushes the water and creates much turbulance.
Create a nice little hot spot with your fluo thread and varnish it. That’s it!
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
click to play the video[vimeo]http://vimeo.com/36655237[/vimeo]
Small Zonker-Baitfish
I like….no, I love streamers, which are easy to tie, but they always have to play nicely in the water. Zonker stripes are one of my favorite materials since a long time. It’s durable, easy to tie in and most important, it moves in the water like hell.
This little fellow is only about 5 cm long (less than 2 inches). The front part with dubbing and the eyes is coated with uv-resin, in this case I used Clear Cure Goo (CCG) which works really well. First I used CCG Hydro, which is fluid like water, to fix everything, than CCG Tack Free for the final coating.
It’s an all around baitfish pattern, which can be used for any type of predators. I tie it on a saltwater hook and nip down the barb, when using in freshwater. So I use often the same fly first in spring for seatrout and later in the year for brown trout.
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 4
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Ribbing: Mono
- Body: SLF Prism Dub in tan
- Back and Tail: Zonker Stripe
- Eyes and Head: 3 D Eyes, SLF Prism Dub and Clear Cure Goo
Wind the lead wire around the shank and secure it with super glue.
Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing.
Split the thread, put the SLF Prism Dub in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.
Wind the twisted dubbing around untill you reach the middle of the shank.
Tie an piece of zonker stripe.
Rib the Zonker with the mono and catch the mono with your thread.
Here you can see the nice profile of the zonker.
Dub the head in the same way like the body and brush it with your velcro brush.
Put some eyes on the head and and secure it with Clear Cure Goo Hydro. Then put a final coating of Clear Cure Goo Tack Free on the head.
No bubbles like with epoxy, just clear resin so you can see the hot twinkle of the Prism Dub.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Poor Mans Pattegrisen
The famous shrimp fly „Pattegrisen“ is one of the most popular seatrout patterns of the last years for the fly fishermen at the Baltic sea. It’s a very large fly with a great movement in the water. The key-material are Rooster Spey Hackles from Whiting dyed in the colour salmon. The long soft fibres pulsate, when retrieving with some stops . Lovely!
But there’s a little problem…. the original Whiting Rooster Spey Hackles are expansive. Some years ago you payed about 35,- € for a bronze grade cape, now about 80,- to 90,- €!
That’s the reason I tied the „Poor Mans Pattegrisen“. This pattern is much cheaper, easy to tie and, believe me, it looks really nice in the water! The main ingredient are Whiting HEN Spey Hackles dyed in salmon. They are much cheaper and softer as rooster hackles, but not as long as the original.
Just give the Poor Mans Pattegrisen a try, maybe also in different colours, it’s worth it!
Materials:
- Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 6
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Feeler: Whiting Hen Spey Hackles, Fluo Fibre, Krinkle Mirror Flash
- Ribbing: Mono
- Eyes: Black Shrimp Eyes
- Body: Whiting Hen Spey Hackles, Spectra Dubbing
- Roof: Whiting Hen Spey Hackles
- Hot Spot: UTC Thread fluo. pink
Wind some lead wire around the front part of the hook shank and secure it with super glue.
Tie in a spey hackle with the tip first.
Wind the hackle towards the hook eye and catch it with your tying thread.
Tie some strands of fluo fibre on each side of the feeler.
Tie in a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and form a little dubbing ball.
Tie in the shrimp eyes. The dubbing ball helps to split the eyes nicely.
Tie in a piece of mono and a spey hackle.
Dub the first part of the body, wind the spey hackle around it and catch it with your thread.
Tie in another spey hackle and dub the rest of the body.
Wind the hackle around the dubbed body and secure it with your thread, then rib the body with the mono to make it strong and durable.
Brush the fly with your velcro brush, so the dubbing fibres are mixed with the hackle fibres.
Tie in another spey hackle…
… wind it around and secure it with your thread.
Take 3-4 spey hackle and equalize the length.
Tie in the spey hackles as a roof of the fly.
If you want, you can create a little hot spot with fluo tying thread.
Varnish the head or put some uv-resin on it. Voilà! The „Poor Mans Pattegrisen“!
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Wiggle Fox step by step
Material:
- Hooks: Gamakatsu F 314 # 6
- Tail: Fox Tail Hair
- Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing, SLF Prism Dubbing and a Hackle
- Ribbing: Mono
- Weight: Tungsten Bead or Lead Wire
- Optional: 3 D Eyes secured with UV-Resin
Put a hook in the vise and tie in some fox tail hair. Put a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and tie it in.
Mix the dubbing. I used SLF Saltwater Dub in pearl and ginger and a little bit of SLF Prism dub.
Tie in the mono for ribbing, split the thread, put the dubbing in the gap and spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and the thread.
Wind around the dubbing, tie in a hackle next to the hook eye and wind it backwards, then wind the ribbing to the front to secure the hackle. Catch the ribbing and do a whip finish. Use a velcro brush to comb the fly.
Cut the hook bend.
Put another hook in the vise and wind some lead wire on the front of the hook.
Tie in a piece of mono for the connection between the two pieces.
Connect the two pieces like above. Use super glue to fix everything.
Tie in another piece of mono for ribbing, then split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap. Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing and wind it around to the front.
Wind around a hackle and rib it with mono like you’ve done with the first section.
You can finish the fly or dub a little head, put some 3 D eyes on each side and secure them with uv-resin.
tl Holger Lachmann
Golden CDC Seatrout Fly
Most people use CDC for all kinds of dry flies, but it’s a good material for streamer or for example shrimp pattern, because of the movement under water.
This is an easy pattern, which works really great for seatrout, especially when you’ve got sunny, calm weather. Works well for the baltic garfish too.
This fly doesn’t immitate a specific animal, it just looks like food for the seatrout. A little bit like a shrimp, a small baitfish or a mysis.
Materials:
- Hook: Partridge CS 54 # 10
- Tail: golden CDC and 2 fibre Micro Chrystal Flash
- Ribbing: Mono 0,14mm
- Body: SLF Saltwater Dubbing Pearl and Ginger
- Body and Front Hackle: golden CDC
- Weight: Lead Wire
Wind thin lead wire around the front part of the hook shank.
Use some CDC fibres for the tail.
Add two fibres of Micro Chrystal Flash.
Tie in some mono for ribbing. It’s imortant to fold the mono back and catch it with the thread, so it can’t slip when pulling tight for the ribbing.
SLF Saltwater Dubbing in Pearl and Ginger before mixing
Mixed dubbing.
Split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap.
Spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing.
The first part should be 3/5 of the shank.
Bring the thread to the front.
Again, split the thread, put the dubbing between…
… and dub from the front backwards to the beginning of the already dubbed body.
Split the thread and put CDC fibres in the gap. To prepare the CDC i like to use the Marc Petitjean Magic Tool.
Spin the bobbin to twist the CDC.
Wind the CDC to the eye of the hook, whip finish, brush the whole fly with a toothbrush and varnish the head. The fly is finished.
I tried to show you how the fly looks in the water. The SLF becomes semi-transparent. Together with the CDC looks the fly like it’s alive and yummy.
tight lines Holger Lachmann