A little nymph #14 fresh out of the vise. Bug Bond coated quill body, a little bit partridge, a little bit pheasant, some dubbing and a thread. That’s all!
Quill Body Nymph # 14
Antworten
Schlagwort-Archive: Trout
Some food for trout and grayling
Autumn is almost over and the winter is coming… I already miss to fish for trout and grayling, which I’ve done this year not often enough….
Emerger with Quill Body
fast evening tie with picky graylings in mind
emerger # 14 on Daiichi 1167 Klinkhamer hook
Swimming Nymph
Mayfly nymph tied with the swimming nymph materials from the Pro Sportfisher Trout System.
Macro
Freshwater Shrimp with the new Gammarus Foil by Pro Sportfisher – Step By Step
This is a really natural looking freshwater shrimp. Easy to tie and very durable. It’s tied with the new multi colored Gammarus Shrimp Back from Pro Sportfisher and Bug Bond.
You can get the Gammarus Shrimp Backs in different colors and sizes. Here, I used the brown color in small.
It was never easier to tie a super realistic pattern in such a short time. I believe, that it’ll catch fish from Finnland to Italy!
Materials:
- Hook: Tiemco 2487 # 12
- Weight: Lead Foil
- Ribbing: Mono 0,14
- Back: Pro Sportfisher Gammarus brown # small and Bug Bond UV Resin
- Dubbing: SLF Squirrel Spikey Dubbing mixed with Hends Spectra Dubbing
- Tail: CDC Feather
- Thread: Dyneema
Take the hook, push down the barb and put it in your vise. Cut a stripe of lead out of the lead foil and create a nice lead body.
Take a CDC feather and cut off a „V“ from the tip. Tie the feather in as shown.
Take a shrimp back from the sheet and tie it in at the end. Tie also in the mono for the ribbing.
I used for this Gammarus a mix made out of Squirrel Dubbing and Spectra Dubbing. A natural color with a little bit of flash. Dub a not to slim body.
Fold the Gammarus foil to the front and catch it with you tying thread. Then, rib the body with the mono. Catch the mono, cut it off and finish the tying with a whip finish.
Now, take your Bug Bond and coat the back of the shrimp and cure it with the Bug Bond torch.
Pick out some beards and fibres with your dubbing needle to imitate the legs.
The finished shrimp, ready to fish.
The shrimp when wet. I don’t think, that a fish can resist.
Tight lines
Holger
The Formula
High water level + murky water + streamer = big trout! (Hopefully!)
New Zonker Muddler
This a kind of pimped Muddler Minnow. I use a piece of zonker stripe for the tail, some fancy dubbing mixed with flash dubbing, krinkle flash, a deer hair muddler head, funky eyes and and a heavy tungsten bead to get it down to the predators. One of my absolut favorite streamer pattern for trout and seatrout!
Poxy-Fox
When I first tied this pattern, I used epoxy for it. That’s why there’s „Poxy“ in the name of the fly. Today I use uv-resin for it, but I didn’t wanted to chance the name. ;-)
When you tie this pattern, it’s very important, that the resin soaks into the braid at the end of the fly to fix the marble fox, so it won’t tangle around the hook bend while casting. The materials used are:
- Gamakatsu F314 # 2
- Mono thread
- 3D Eyes
- Marble Fox olive
- Krinkle Mirror Flash
- Ice Dub golden olive
- Felix Cord olive
- Permanent Markers
- UV-Resin
You can also tie in some lead wire if you want, to create a jigging effect for example.
The Poxy-Fox looks really massive on the picture, but in the water it got some translucency. That’s the reason, why you should dub a thin body before slipping the flexi cord around the hook shank.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Fleye Foil Fox Candy – Step By Step
Here’s a Surf Candy style pattern tied with the new Fleye Foils by Bob Popovics. The tail made out of arctic fox wiggles nice in the water. Much better than most synthetics. It’s not just a battern for the saltwater fisherman, you can also fish it in freshwater. Small sizes for trout and char for example, bigger ones for asp. Just give it a try.
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
- Thread: Mono
- Tail: Arctic Fox
- Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash Pearl
- Body: Senyo’s Laser Dub, Bob Popovics‘ Fleye Foils „Silverside“ and uv-resin
Tie in the arctic fox as tail and 3 strands of krinkle mirror flash, one on each side and one on top.
3mm in front of the fox, tie in a bunch of white senyo’s laser dub on the top of the hook shank and one underneath.
Do the same with a bunch of laser dub holographic minnow belly 3 mm infront of the white dub.
Now, pick two colors of laser dub of your liking, here it’s light olive and shrimp pink, and tie it in like you see above.
Pull the laser dub backwards, that’s how you put a bit of volume to the head, otherwise it won’t fit to the shape of the foil.
Put a foil on each side. Just tie in the little „nose“ of the foil with a couple of turns and whip finish the fly.
Pull the laser dub and the foils backwards and start to apply the uv resin on the body. The resin should soak into the dubbing, that gives the fly later some translucency. Mostly it’s easier to applicate two layers of uv resin. You got much more control of everything.
If you don’t use a tackfree uv resin, put a thin coating of nail varnish on the uv resin to get a tackfree glossy finish.
That’s it! Ready for fishing!
tl
Holger Lachmann
Mini Sculpin Step By Step
I was invited to tie at the Dutch Fly Fair last weekend. A small Mini Sculpin pattern was lying on my desk in front of me while tying. It was less then 5 cm long. A lot of people liked it, especially Walter Bayer from Ireland (great flytyer) and Roger Enger Lie (great caster) from Norway and I had to promise to them, that I will do a step by step tutorial of this little guy.
So guys, this one is for you! ;-)
Material:
- Hook: Gamakatsu SC 15 # 4
- Weight: Tungsten Bead
- Tail: Pine Squirrel Zonker
- Pectoral Fins: Pine Squirrel Zonker
- Head: Senyo’s Laser Dub
- Eyes: 3-D Eyes
Put a tungsten bead on the hook.
Tie in a piece of pine squirrel zonker as a tail.
Put some pine squirrel hair in the clamp, then split the thread and put the hair in the gap.
Rotate the bobbin to twist the hair and the thread. Put a litlle bit of water on the hair, so it’s easier to wrap it around the hook shank.
Tie in bunches of Senyo’s Laser Dub. Remember, this is a up side down pattern, so tie in the bright color on top of the fly and the dark color underneath. You can create different shades by using different colors. Finish the tying with a whip finish behind the tungsten bead.
Now, start the cutting to create a sculpin head. The easiest way is to begin with the flat underside.
Before the cutting is finished, use some superglue to fix the 3-D eyes on top of the sculpin head and press the eyes into the Laser Dub to give the head strength. Now, you can do the final cutting.
That’s it! A small sculpin which swims down on the bottom of the river, because of the tungsten bead.
Note: Please press down the barb of the hook! Trouts will take the sculpin very aggressively!
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Asp Streamer Step By Step
The asp is a fun fish for the fly rod. I got some friends, who are really go nuts, when the weather gets warmer and the asp starts to splash through the surface while hunting for baitfish.
The best fly colour for asp is white, so a white 3-D baitfish imitation works well for them. You need to put some weight into the fly, because often you fish in fast water for asp and you don’t want the baitfish pattern to flip over the surface instead of swinging some centimeters below it.
Arctic fox moves fantastic in the water, but you got often the problem, that the hair tangles around the hook while casting. You can avoid this by puting some uv resin on the fox near the hook to make it stiff. That’s an easy way to create a tangle-free fox fly.
Material:
- Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
- Weight: Lead Wire
- Tail: Arctic Fox White
- Flash: Electra Scale Pearl
- Body: Hareline Ice Dub Minnow Belly
- Head: Hareline Senyos Laser Dub
- Eyes: Deer Creek
- UV-Resin: Deer Creek Diamond Hard Tack Free
Wind some lead around the hook shank and secure it with super glue.
Tie in some arctic fox and some strands of electra scale on each side. Secure the fox with uv resin next to the hook and cure it with the uv torch.
Make a loop with your tying thread and put some ice dub in the gap. Twist the loop with your dubbing twister and brush the dubbing with your velcro brush to create a fluffy dubbing strand.
Wind the twisted dubbing around the hook shank and brush it again.
Tie in some laser dub on the top and on the bottom like shown on the picture.
Put some eyes on each side of the fly by using super glue and paint some gills on each side with a permanent marker.
On the first picture, you can see how nice all the materials look, when wet.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Quill Body CDC Emerger No. 2 – Step By Step
It’s the end of April and the trout and grayling season will start soon.
Here’s another very good emerger pattern, which imitates some different may fly species, depending on the colour and size. It’s tied on the new Daiichi 1167 Klinkhamer hook, designed by the famous dutch fly tyer Hans van Klinken.
The Daiichi 1167 got a stronger wire compared to the Tiemco 212Y for example, which makes sure, that the abdomen hangs deep in the surface. That’s really important and that’s the reason, why this pattern got no tail or a trailing shuck, to make sure, that the abdomen is hanging deep in the surface.
The quill body is covered with a thin coating UV Resin.
Materials:
- Hook: Daiichi 1167 # 14
- Abdomen: Polish Quills &Tack Free UV Resin
- Thorax: Oliver Edwards Master Class Dubbing
- Wing case: CDC
- Wing: CDC
- Legs: Partridge
Put the hook into the vise, do a layer of thread and tie in a stripped peacock quill. Wind the quill around the hook shank and catch it with the tying thread.
Put a little drop of Tack Free UV Resin on the stripped peacock quill and spread it on the abdomen. Cure it with your UV torch.
Tie in two CDC feathers for the wing case. Then tie in the tip of another white CDC feather as a crippled wing.
Dub the body and tie in some partridge fibres to imitate the legs. Fold each CDC feather to the hook eye and catch it with the tying thread. The CDC wing should be exactly in the middle of the feathers.
Cut the CDC feathers for the wing case and do some turns with your whip finisher to create a little head. Varnish the head, if you like. That’s it, ready for fishing. ;-)
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Grey Magnus Step By Step
This pattern is so famous….no more words about it, let’s start tying! ;-)
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu SS15/T # 4
- Tail: Grey Grizzly Marabou / Chrystal Flash Pearl
- Ribbing: Mono
- Body: Hare’e Ice Dub Hare’s Ear from Hareline / Grizzly Hackle
- Front Hackle: Dun Grizzly Saltwater Hackle
- Eyes: Bead Chain Eyes
Do a layer of thread on the hook shank and tie in the grizzly marabou as a tail.
Tie in two strands of pearl crystal flash on each side of the marabou and fix the mono for the ribbing.
Spin some dubbing around the thread and dub the body. Don’t dub the body to tight, because we want to brush it later.
Tie in a smaler grizzly hackle and wind the hackle from the front to the back around the dubbing body. Rib the dubbing body and the hackle turns with the mono from the back to the front and catch the mono with your tying thread. Give the body a nice brush with your velcro-brush.
Take a dun grizzly saltwater hackle and prepare it like shown on the picture. Tie it in and wind it around the hook to create the front hackle.
Take some bead chain eyes and tie them in. After some turns around the eyes, put a drop of super glue between the eyes to secure them, then keep winding the thread around the eyes. That’s how you create a strong bead chain head. If you fix the eyes with loose turns of thread, they will slip around the hook shank. That’s it, the Grey Magnus.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann
Zonker-Fish step by step
Zonker stripes are one of my favorite materials for tying streamers. The Zonker-Fish is a really simple pattern made out of a zonker stripe, which is very durable and, most important, it catches fish.
You can find a lot of color examples in my photo album Streamers.
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
- Weight: Lead
- Ribbing: Mono
- Body: Flash Dubbing
- Wing: Zonker Stripe
- Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
- Head: Flash Dubbing, Clear Cure Goo
- Eyes: Clear Cure Eyes Solar Flare
Wind on some lead wire and secure it with super glue.
Tie in a piece of mono for ribbing.
Mix two colors of flash dubbing.
Split the thread and put the dubbing in the gap. Then spin the bobbin to twist the dubbing.
Wind the dubbing around the hook shank and brush it with your velcro brush.
Tie in a zonker stripe at the front and rib it with the mono from the back to the front.
Tie in a strand of krinkle mirror flash on each side and form a little head with flash dubbing.
Use some super glue for fixing the Clear Cure Eyes on each side and fill the space between the eyes on top and bottom with Clear Cure Goo to create a durable head.
tight lines
Holger Lachmann