Caddis Pupa with tungsten head – step by step

This is a good all around nymph to imitate caddis pupa. The vague looking nymph seems eatable to the fish. It’s a nice combination of a semi-transparent body and the mix of cdc, soft fibres and the dubbing mix of natural hare’s ear and ice dub. Not to flashy. Just that kind of nymph I personally like to fish.

The tying steps are self-explanatory, I guess. So here are just the materials.

If you got questions, just feel free to ask.

 

  • Hook: Tiemco 2488 #12
  • Weight: Tungsten bead
  • Body: greenish-yellow strands of a present bag, Polish Quill olive, Bug Bond Lite
  • Wing: CDC Puff from Troutline
  • Legs: Fibres of a Hen Hackle
  • Thorax: Dubbing Mix Hare’s Ear and Ice Dub, secured with Bug Bond Lite

 

IMG_4230 (Large)

Marabou Sculpins

Tied these little marabou sculpins with Fish Skull Sculpin Helmets. I used the smallest size. Still easy to fish with a 4 or 5 weight rod. I colored the head by using marker pens and varnish.

 

Sedge Pupa Step By Step Tutorial

I posted this pattern some weeks ago on my blog and on Facebook and I was asked, if I could do a step by step tutorial about it. So, here it is. I hope you like it as much as I do.

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Maruto C47 BL # 12
  • Weight: Tungsten Bead Black Nickel
  • Thread: Dyneema
  • Body: Thread-Underbody, olive marker pen,  Flashabou, Polish Quills green
  • Resin: Bug Bond Lite
  • Dubbing: SLF light olive and cinnamon
  • Wings: Flashabou Mirage colored with a brown marker pen
  • Wing Case: Pheasant
  • Legs: Partridge

Put the hook with the tungsten bead in the vise.

 

Form the unterbody with your thread and tie in the Flashabou and Polish Quill.

 

Color the underbody with an olive marker pen and wind the Flashabou and then the Polish Quill around the body and secure it with your tying thread.

 

Put some Bug Bond Lite on the body and cure the resin with your Bug Bond torch. Then, tie in some strands from a pheasant tail feather as shown.

 

Dub some SLF light olive on the fly and tie in the brown colored Flashabou Mirage. Cut the Mirage like shown on the photo.

 

Dub the rest with SLF in cinnamon till you reach the tungsten bead.

 

Cut a „V“ out of  a partridge feather and tie in the fibres of the partridge as legs. Then fold the pheasant strands to the front to create the wing case and catch it with your tying thread. Put a drop of Bug Bond Lite on the wing case incl. the thread with which you catch the pheasant. Cure the Bug Bond Lite with your Bug Bond torch and cut the thread. You’re done! The Bug Bond Lite makes it super strong! You don’t need to do whip finish!

 

That’s it! Now grab your fly rod and catch some nice trout or grayling or whatever you like to catch with nymphs and pupas!

tight lines!

Holger

Fish Candy

This is a Gammarus pattern, weighted with thin lead foil tied on a shrimp hook # 12. Super simple fly. Lead on the hook, some antennas or legs made from Coq de Lon, mono for ribbing, Pro Sportfisher Gammarus Shell black on clear coated with Bug Bond UV Resin, SLF Saltwater Dub fluo shell pink and tying thread. That’s it! Tasty! ;-)

Czech Nymphs

To be honest, I’m not a fan of czech nymphing. I just love to cast with a flyrod. Czech nymphing is super effectiv, no doubt about that. It’s just too less casting for my liking… ;-)

The Czech Nymphs on the other hand are pretty cool flies. I didn’t fish them much in the past, but I want to try them in the next season, especially the ones with a little hot spot. This is quite hard for me, because I got a lot more faith in natural colors. Maybe I was wrong all the time, we’ll see….

Czech Nymphs should be weighted AND as slim as possible to sink fast. That’s not the easiest task. You have to find the right amount of dubbing. Less is more!

I look forward testing them in a nice stream for trout and grayling. :-)

 

Hangover Fly – The First Fly Of 2014

01.01.2014

The first fly of the year, the Hangover Fly. A nymph # 14 with a tungsten Bead.

The last fly of 2013

This Caddis Pupa, tied on a Daiichi Klinkhamer hook # 14 was the last fly I tied in 2013.

Quill Body CDC Emerger No. 2 – Step By Step

It’s the end of April and the trout and grayling season will start soon.

Here’s another very good emerger pattern, which imitates some different may fly species, depending on the colour and size. It’s tied on the new Daiichi 1167 Klinkhamer hook, designed by the famous dutch fly tyer Hans van Klinken.

The Daiichi 1167 got a stronger wire compared to the Tiemco 212Y for example, which makes sure, that the abdomen hangs deep in the surface. That’s really important and that’s the reason, why this pattern got no tail or a trailing shuck, to make sure, that the abdomen is hanging deep in the surface.

The quill body is covered with a thin coating UV Resin.

 

Materials:

  • Hook: Daiichi 1167 # 14
  • Abdomen: Polish Quills &Tack Free UV Resin
  • Thorax: Oliver Edwards Master Class Dubbing
  • Wing case: CDC
  • Wing: CDC
  • Legs: Partridge

 

Put the hook into the vise, do a layer of thread and tie in a stripped peacock quill. Wind the quill around the hook shank and catch it with the tying thread.

 

Put a little drop of Tack Free UV Resin on the stripped peacock quill and spread it on the abdomen. Cure it with your UV torch.

 

Tie in two CDC feathers for the wing case. Then tie in the tip of another white CDC feather as a crippled wing.

 

Dub the body and tie in some partridge fibres to imitate the legs. Fold each CDC feather to the hook eye and catch it with the tying thread. The CDC wing should be exactly in the middle of the feathers.

 

Cut the CDC feathers for the wing case and do some turns with your whip finisher to create a little head. Varnish the head, if you like. That’s it, ready for fishing. ;-)

tight lines

Holger Lachmann

Tungsten Quill Body Nymph Step By Step

Put a tungsten bead on the hook (here it’s a TMC 2312 #12)

 

Tie in some fibres from a Coq de Leon hackle as tail.

 

Tie in stripped peacock quill.

 

Create a tapered body with the tying thread.

 

Wind the quill around the hook shank. The dark side of the quill should point to the hook bend.

 

Put a small drop of uv-resin on the body and cover the quill with a small coat.

 

The uv-resin after curing. Now, the quill body looks really nice and it’s secured against the trouts teeth. A tack free uv-resin works best.

 

Tie in some pheasant tail fibres for the wing case.

 

Tie in a hen hackle with the tip first. The hackle will create the legs of the nymph.

 

Dub the thorax with a dubbing of your choice. I used SLF-Spicky-Dubbing.

 

Fold the hen hackle first and then the pheasant tail fibres to the hook eye and catch it with the thread close to the tungsten bead.

 

Cut the hen hackle and the pheasant tail fibres close to the tungsten head and make a whip finish.

 

Finish the fly with a drop of uv-resin on the wing case.

A heavy nymph with quiet a real shape, nice colours and very durable.

 

Holger