My cam was lying next to me on my tying table and I made some quick pictures during tying. Just for fun. This is not really a step by step tutorial…
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Schlagwort-Archive: Thread
Sedge Pupa Step By Step Tutorial
I posted this pattern some weeks ago on my blog and on Facebook and I was asked, if I could do a step by step tutorial about it. So, here it is. I hope you like it as much as I do.
Materials:
- Hook: Maruto C47 BL # 12
- Weight: Tungsten Bead Black Nickel
- Thread: Dyneema
- Body: Thread-Underbody, olive marker pen, Flashabou, Polish Quills green
- Resin: Bug Bond Lite
- Dubbing: SLF light olive and cinnamon
- Wings: Flashabou Mirage colored with a brown marker pen
- Wing Case: Pheasant
- Legs: Partridge
Put the hook with the tungsten bead in the vise.
Form the unterbody with your thread and tie in the Flashabou and Polish Quill.
Color the underbody with an olive marker pen and wind the Flashabou and then the Polish Quill around the body and secure it with your tying thread.
Put some Bug Bond Lite on the body and cure the resin with your Bug Bond torch. Then, tie in some strands from a pheasant tail feather as shown.
Dub some SLF light olive on the fly and tie in the brown colored Flashabou Mirage. Cut the Mirage like shown on the photo.
Dub the rest with SLF in cinnamon till you reach the tungsten bead.
Cut a „V“ out of a partridge feather and tie in the fibres of the partridge as legs. Then fold the pheasant strands to the front to create the wing case and catch it with your tying thread. Put a drop of Bug Bond Lite on the wing case incl. the thread with which you catch the pheasant. Cure the Bug Bond Lite with your Bug Bond torch and cut the thread. You’re done! The Bug Bond Lite makes it super strong! You don’t need to do whip finish!
That’s it! Now grab your fly rod and catch some nice trout or grayling or whatever you like to catch with nymphs and pupas!
tight lines!
Holger
Fish Candy
This is a Gammarus pattern, weighted with thin lead foil tied on a shrimp hook # 12. Super simple fly. Lead on the hook, some antennas or legs made from Coq de Lon, mono for ribbing, Pro Sportfisher Gammarus Shell black on clear coated with Bug Bond UV Resin, SLF Saltwater Dub fluo shell pink and tying thread. That’s it! Tasty! ;-)
Czech Nymphs
To be honest, I’m not a fan of czech nymphing. I just love to cast with a flyrod. Czech nymphing is super effectiv, no doubt about that. It’s just too less casting for my liking… ;-)
The Czech Nymphs on the other hand are pretty cool flies. I didn’t fish them much in the past, but I want to try them in the next season, especially the ones with a little hot spot. This is quite hard for me, because I got a lot more faith in natural colors. Maybe I was wrong all the time, we’ll see….
Czech Nymphs should be weighted AND as slim as possible to sink fast. That’s not the easiest task. You have to find the right amount of dubbing. Less is more!
I look forward testing them in a nice stream for trout and grayling. :-)
Hangover Fly – The First Fly Of 2014
01.01.2014
The first fly of the year, the Hangover Fly. A nymph # 14 with a tungsten Bead.
The last fly of 2013
This Caddis Pupa, tied on a Daiichi Klinkhamer hook # 14 was the last fly I tied in 2013.
Some flies from the last days…
Quill Body Nymph # 14
A little nymph #14 fresh out of the vise. Bug Bond coated quill body, a little bit partridge, a little bit pheasant, some dubbing and a thread. That’s all!
Spey = Shrimps
I just love spey hackles to tie shrimp patterns.
You can find the tutorial here https://theonefly.com/?p=535
Some Poor Man’s Pattegrisen
A very good seatrout pattern. It’s a little bit easier and cheaper then the original Pattegrisen by Claus Eriksen. I’ve made a step by step some time ago, have a look here https://theonefly.com/?p=535
Have fun! :-)
Some food for trout and grayling
Autumn is almost over and the winter is coming… I already miss to fish for trout and grayling, which I’ve done this year not often enough….
Swimming Nymph
Mayfly nymph tied with the swimming nymph materials from the Pro Sportfisher Trout System.
Macro
Freshwater Shrimp with the new Gammarus Foil by Pro Sportfisher – Step By Step
This is a really natural looking freshwater shrimp. Easy to tie and very durable. It’s tied with the new multi colored Gammarus Shrimp Back from Pro Sportfisher and Bug Bond.
You can get the Gammarus Shrimp Backs in different colors and sizes. Here, I used the brown color in small.
It was never easier to tie a super realistic pattern in such a short time. I believe, that it’ll catch fish from Finnland to Italy!
Materials:
- Hook: Tiemco 2487 # 12
- Weight: Lead Foil
- Ribbing: Mono 0,14
- Back: Pro Sportfisher Gammarus brown # small and Bug Bond UV Resin
- Dubbing: SLF Squirrel Spikey Dubbing mixed with Hends Spectra Dubbing
- Tail: CDC Feather
- Thread: Dyneema
Take the hook, push down the barb and put it in your vise. Cut a stripe of lead out of the lead foil and create a nice lead body.
Take a CDC feather and cut off a „V“ from the tip. Tie the feather in as shown.
Take a shrimp back from the sheet and tie it in at the end. Tie also in the mono for the ribbing.
I used for this Gammarus a mix made out of Squirrel Dubbing and Spectra Dubbing. A natural color with a little bit of flash. Dub a not to slim body.
Fold the Gammarus foil to the front and catch it with you tying thread. Then, rib the body with the mono. Catch the mono, cut it off and finish the tying with a whip finish.
Now, take your Bug Bond and coat the back of the shrimp and cure it with the Bug Bond torch.
Pick out some beards and fibres with your dubbing needle to imitate the legs.
The finished shrimp, ready to fish.
The shrimp when wet. I don’t think, that a fish can resist.
Tight lines
Holger
Bad Ass Bass Banger – Step By Step
The Bad Ass Bass Banger – A streamer perfect for bass/perch and zander/walleye. It has a great action under water, because of the excellent moving tail, the jigging and the massiv front collar, which pushes a lot of water. It’s easy and fast to tie, durable and just a great fishing fly. The jigging can be controled by the weight of the brass dumbells.
Materials:
- Hook: Gamakatsu F 314 # 4
- Thread: Dyneema white and UTC fluo green
- Dubbing: Ice Dubbing Chartreuse
- Tail/Body: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
- Front Collar: Tiger Barred Rabbit Stripes
- Head: Brass Dumbells with Eyes, Senyo’s Laser Dub fluo chartreuse + green/ chartruese, Bug Bond
- Flash: Krinkle Mirror Flash
Put the hook in the vise, wind a good basement of thread and tie in the dumbell eyes. Use super glue during the tying, so the dumbells won’t slip around the hook shank during fishing.
Splitt the thread or make a dubbing loop, but the ice dubbing in the gap and twist it, then brush ist with your velcro-brush and wind it from the back to the front behind the dumbells. Then brush the dubbing body again.
Jab the hook through the leather of the rabbit stripe and tie the stripe right behind the dumbells down. Secure the punctured stripe with a little drop of super glue.
Tie in the krinkle mirror flash an each side. I prefer to use two or more different colors of flash. Split the thread again and put some rabbit stripe in a material clamp and cut away the leather. Put the rabbit stripe hair into the thread gap and twist the thread, then wind it around the hook next to the dumbells.
Change the thread and tie in the laser dub like shown on the pictures above on top and on the underside. The lighter color always belong to the underside.
Finish with a nice massive thread-head, which pushes the senyo back.
Push the senyo dubbing on the underside to the back and apply the Bug Bond on the underside and on the head.
Ready to fish! Wish you a lot of fun with the Bad Ass Bass Banger!
tl
Holger Lachmann